Turn your sf axle into a ff (1 Viewer)

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What do you use on the end for the axles to attach to? How does its all come together when you get to the point where you have the spindle mounted. Obviously your not mounting the front hub to the front 40 or 60 rotor right? I'm just confused,.
 
What do you use on the end for the axles to attach to? How does its all come together when you get to the point where you have the spindle mounted. Obviously your not mounting the front hub to the front 40 or 60 rotor right? I'm just confused,.

Those flanges allow you to bolt on the front spindles, hubs, calipers, rotors and locking hubs from the front of an FJ40 or FJ60 on.
Nitro sells a set of cut to length full float axle shafts that you would use to complete the setup.
 
i ended up buying a pair of these when they first came out..
i feel that these full floater ends are not a complete kit.. there is nothing to keep the axle oil in the axle after you weld these ends on..

i noticed that with the front range ff kit, it includes an aluminum seal adapter that will fit in the axle tube and will allow the use of a front axle seal to seal the oil in and then you would grease the outer wheel bearings like a normal toyota full floater..

i will have to have a better look at the Nirtro cut to length set.. i wonder if the shafts are polished all the way to provide a good seal surface for an axle seal to ride on or if you have to give them a measurment of where you think the axle seal is gonna ride..
 
What axles are supposed to be used? Can locking hubs take the continuous use on the rear? I haven't really thought about it, but this looks pretty incomplete.
 
Back where? I'm still confused on how you complete this setup. If I'm not mistaken this is how it goes:


First you weld these on the axles
Second you bolt on spindles from and fj60
Third you mate fj60 rotors to the hubs as usual
Fourth you slid the rotor and hub assembly with bearings installed over the spindle.
Fifth?? You instal the locking hubs on a set of custom axles?? Which are always locked?? Or do these custom axles replace the whole locking hub assembly??
 
Back where? I'm still confused on how you complete this setup. If I'm not mistaken this is how it goes:


First you weld these on the axles
Second you bolt on spindles from and fj60
Third you mate fj60 rotors to the hubs as usual
Fourth you slid the rotor and hub assembly with bearings installed over the spindle.
Fifth?? You instal the locking hubs on a set of custom axles?? Which are always locked?? Or do these custom axles replace the whole locking hub assembly??

I think the other poster was referring to using drive flanges on the rear axle with floater shafts instead of locking hubs like Aisins or Warns.

The Nitro cut to length axles are built just like the factory full floater axle shafts, with a drive flange permanently attached. So rather than attaching a locking hub, you slide the shaft in and bolt it up.

More info: Nitro Full Floater Axles
 
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I think the other poster was referring to using drive flanges on the rear axle with floater shafts instead of locking hubs like Aisins or Warns.

The Nitro cut to length axles are built just like the factory full floater axle shafts, with a drive flange permanently attached. So rather than attaching a locking hub, you slide the shaft in and bolt it up.

More info: Nitro Full Floater Axles

So is there a place to get a bolt on cap to go in place of the hub switch deal??
Your post and link had totally helped me to understand how this all goes together!! THANK YOU!!
It was escaping me since I had seen these come out.
 
Not for me...
 
Not for me...

What do you have??
Since I blew a c clip on the road, the SF has left me thinking about a FF in some capacity.
Since I have the gears, lockers and wrap bar set up on my axles, this seems the least work and least expensive option.
 
Wouldn't those axles just take place of the locking hub?

I don't know?
Are you thinking that the end is just exposed?
After looking back at the link, it would seem that there would be some kind of cap that would cover the end of the hub like on most FF axles??
Otherwise a seal would have to keep the grease in, right?

This is still a mystery to me.

Jim has a pic of one of his housings assembled, but it still doesn't make a total sense on how this all goes together and works w/ a cruiser retro fit.
 
I'm thinking that those axles bolt right onto the hubs where the locking hubs would go, using the cone washers and studs out of the hubs??? Those studs on the hubs are pretty small...... Not sure how strong that would be. I guess if its strong enough for the front it's good enough for the rear right?
 
I'm thinking that those axles bolt right onto the hubs where the locking hubs would go, using the cone washers and studs out of the hubs??? Those studs on the hubs are pretty small...... Not sure how strong that would be. I guess if its strong enough for the front it's good enough for the rear right?

I JUST GOT this!!
I see what your looking at, finally!! So the axle flange IS the cover!! :)
I'll get it!!
 
chicago said:
I JUST GOT this!!
I see what your looking at, finally!! So the axle flange IS the cover!! :)
I'll get it!!

I do believe that is how it works.

Wonder how strong that would be? Why would poser use em?
 
I do believe that is how it works.

Wonder how strong that would be? Why would poser use em?

Would your concern be the hub studs??
 
What do you have??



A fabricated housing using a Hi9, ARB'ed, 4.86, center section and 35-spline 300M CTM axle shafts to 300M CTM drive slugs.



Just works.


:meh:
 

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