turbo manifold project
- Thread starter landtank
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Wow, thats nice. Are the 5 teets the pour points? The flanges seem to be really thick. By recollection about 1/8th thicker than the stock manifolds. Will those be milled down? If not, what about studs? I always thought that part of the reason that the exhaust manifolds are 2 piece was to cope with the aluminum head and the difference in the rate of change of thermal expansion. If this is so, Could one slightly elongate the stud holes to allow for a wee bit of differential movement between the head and the manifold. I appologize if you have covered this topic already.
Once again, I admire your work.
Karl
Once again, I admire your work.
Karl
- Thread starter
- #163
All that is machined into the part which is the next phase. Castings are designed to be 1/8" thicker on machined surfaces to allow for machining. So that flange will get 1/8" removed on the face and another "back facing" of an 1/8" to ensure parellel surfaces for the manifold to move without altering the clamping pressure from the nuts being on uneven surfaces.
If you do a little research you will find that the other manifold out there was not machined properly and the nuts did not thread down on the studs completely for proper fit. That will not be the case here. Also the spacing of the runners are actually smaller than the head at room temperature. This is so when the manifold expands from heating they will then line up properly.
Even though these casting are not usable they will get machined to prove out the design for fitting the head as well as clearancing the heater return line, AC low side line to the pump, right side motor mount and the frame for running the down pipe over.
If these fit properly without any need of alteration then the project is complete and considered done.
- Thread starter
- #164
Sorry I missed this the first go around.
Those are mounting points. The center one will be surfaced and left as is for those who want to drill and tap for an EGT sensor.
The other 4 will be surfaced and tapped for M8x1.25 bolts. These serve 2 purposes.
The first is for mounting a heat sheild that will be louvered to direct air from the cooling fan down through the manifold and exhaust out the underside of the truck.
The center two mounts will also be used for hangers that get mounted to the head. If you look at the head just under the valve cover you will see tapped holes around cylinders 3 and 4. Nothing fancy here, just some .25" stock bent and drilled.
- Thread starter
- #166
Thanks Karl, I never thought differently from your post. I'm more than happy to discuss what I've done.
This design isn't for everyone and I'm OK with that. It's the best I could do with the funds and materials available to me. And I'm certain that my 1FZ-FE manifold is better than either BMW's or Porsche's 1FZ-FE manifold.
Great work Rick.
that manifold is so beef I dont think you will need to worry about bracing anything. the cast turbonetics manifold I have now has had the living crap bounced out of it and it seems to be doing fine without bracing. of course I have a strong hanger on the downpipe and I'l bet this downpipe support is much more important than bracing the manifold-I figure the exhaust weighs 75lbs on my truck. (of course my first home made manifold was not braced and it eventually cracked)
one prob you may have with your minifold is that in your pics there doesn't seem to be enough flange to capture the studs on the block. You may need to have the cast guy make the flange bigger.
Also I found that with both my home made manifold and the turbonetics one im running now I was unable to use the factory flange lock nuts-they have too wide a shoulder and the wide nuts hit the runners. But I found that the smaller diameter lock nuts that are used for the exhaust flanges are perfect and thats what I am running. I had dan send me a bunch of them
keep it going. If you get it right Ill run your manifold after my next failure
that manifold is so beef I dont think you will need to worry about bracing anything. the cast turbonetics manifold I have now has had the living crap bounced out of it and it seems to be doing fine without bracing. of course I have a strong hanger on the downpipe and I'l bet this downpipe support is much more important than bracing the manifold-I figure the exhaust weighs 75lbs on my truck. (of course my first home made manifold was not braced and it eventually cracked)
one prob you may have with your minifold is that in your pics there doesn't seem to be enough flange to capture the studs on the block. You may need to have the cast guy make the flange bigger.
Also I found that with both my home made manifold and the turbonetics one im running now I was unable to use the factory flange lock nuts-they have too wide a shoulder and the wide nuts hit the runners. But I found that the smaller diameter lock nuts that are used for the exhaust flanges are perfect and thats what I am running. I had dan send me a bunch of them
keep it going. If you get it right Ill run your manifold after my next failure
- Thread starter
- #168
Thanks for the compliments Dusty. That Turbonetic casting was what helped me to decide to go with a single piece unit. That and the fact that casting it in two pieces more than doubled the cost of the manifold. It's all about trade offs aas you know.
There is more beef on the flanges at the holes then with the Turbonetics one. I'm also back facing them to except the correct flanged nuts that belong on the exhaust studs.
Incidentally the studs for the Turbo are the same ones used on the head/manifold connection and I'm looking for the correct Toyota studs for the waste gate. I'd like to be able to stick with OEM hardware if I can.
There is more beef on the flanges at the holes then with the Turbonetics one. I'm also back facing them to except the correct flanged nuts that belong on the exhaust studs.
Incidentally the studs for the Turbo are the same ones used on the head/manifold connection and I'm looking for the correct Toyota studs for the waste gate. I'd like to be able to stick with OEM hardware if I can.
- Thread starter
- #171
The casting is completely machined with the exception of the spot facing. Currently a special tool holder needs to be made and then that last operation will be completed and I'll be ready to confirm fit. The tool manufacturing is being done by my regular guy so it looks promising to see something soon.
If the machined piece fits properly then a production run is only a phone call away
If the machined piece fits properly then a production run is only a phone call away
- Thread starter
- #172
drum roll please
- Thread starter
- #173
and a couple more
Did that motor come from the bottom of Lake Michigan?
Very very nice Rick, now the fun finally begins!!! 
- Thread starter
- #179
Not my motor but it came from Maine. It's out of a 93 with 280K on it.
- Thread starter
- #180
Very very nice Rick, now the fun finally begins!!!
Thanks, I need to have a couple of small changes made to the pattern to better facilitate machining and then it's off into a production piece.
