Turbo Life

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Hello,
I have a build up thread on my cruiser, FJ/BJ mutation. page 3. I rebuilt my turbo in about 2 hours, a couple of seals, bushings and back together without any drama. Only try to remove the compressor from the shaft, it has left hand threads and not alot of torque is required to remove the nut. I got my turbo on craigs list for $75.00 and the rebuild kit on eBay for $80.00 or so. I have about 8000 miles on the combo and it shows no signs of distress or any other symptoms at all. This is while driving at 5-15 PSI, and infrequently runs to 18-20 PSI. CT26s rock!
Hola
eric
P.S. I did not balance or index the compressor/shaft at all, runs hard and makes 20PSI of boost, without drama!
 
I rebuilt my turbo in about 2 hours, a couple of seals, bushings and back together without any drama. I got my turbo on craigs list for $75.00 and the rebuild kit on eBay for $80.00 or so.

P.S. I did not balance or index the compressor/shaft at all

This basically describes what I've done so far. I got my turbo and rebuild kit off folks on the MR2 forum since many of them are looking for different turbo's. The rebuild was easy, it's the balancing that has me a little concerned. Here in Guatemala the turbo "expert" spun the shaft by hand and declared it good (not exactly what I had in mind)!!

Did you make up a spool piece between the MR2 housing and the 13B-T manifold or did you locate a CT-26 housing with a round inlet?
 
I'm not exactly sure what you mean. Turbo's for the 3B or 1HD-T are much harder to find. The inlet is slightly differently shaped than the 13B-T manifold but we should be able to make up a spool peice.

The 13B-T has a round outlet and the MR2 inlet is two oblong openings.


That was my idea .. coz I can't ever found a map for a CT-26 no matter what engine it come .. would be great some day have exact information about turbo map of CT26 on diferent aplications ..
 
That was my idea .. coz I can't ever found a map for a CT-26 no matter what engine it come .. would be great some day have exact information about turbo map of CT26 on diferent aplications ..

Thanks to Google maybe you'll find the answers in this thread: CT26 Turbo - Tampa Racing

Not from the horses mouth but probably the same info they would give.
 
My opinion is not expert but I've been told that for most turbo applications dynamic balancing is not nescessary. Compressor wheels are already balanced to a degree. I think it would be more critical on turbos that you find on big rigs with a larger rotating mass. That and maybe higher boost/performance applications.

As for cracks- a lot of housings have them. As long as they don't open up with heat I wouldn't worry about it.

That is my story with balancing too. If you are rebuilding a turbo, simply stripe the nut/wheel and shaft before removing it. Replace in exactly the same orientation and you've got exactly the same balance you started with.

Bigger turbos turn slower than little ones so the balance isn't as critical. "The Diesel Engine Reference Book" says that final balancing is only a noise issue and wasn't even done on turbos outside the passenger car market.
I've swapped parts or built turbos from parts 3 times now without balancing and they hold up fine.
One did about 50,000km since, one has around 9,000km, one died when an oil line came apart.
 
how does the compressor wheel come off?? do you pull it or does it screw off is there some trick??
please help

Held on by the nut, but they're a very close clearance fit and won't come off that easily. Pushing the shaft through and letting the thrust bearing support the compressor works, just be careful not to damage anything.
 
dougal how do you push the shaft through supporting the compressor wheel with the c-clip still holding everything in place?(thats not goning to happen without breaking anything) I know that the're close tolerances mine simply wont pop off (ive even slipped a putty knife under it and still no luck)
so how do you pop this thing off without fawking things up?
any other ideas?
 
dougal how do you push the shaft through supporting the compressor wheel with the c-clip still holding everything in place?(thats not goning to happen without breaking anything) I know that the're close tolerances mine simply wont pop off (ive even slipped a putty knife under it and still no luck)
so how do you pop this thing off without fawking things up?
any other ideas?

What C clip is this? The ones I've worked on (Garrett & IHI) had only the shaft piston ring seal holding the turbine shaft and wheel in. Yours may differ, let me know.
 

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