Tube Bender's
- Thread starter acflyguy18
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WHat about this one, I know its not a 1k bender but for stuff like seat cradles & slider tube......??
Northern Industrial Space-Saver Parts Bender | Pipe + Bar Benders | Northern Tool + Equipment
Anyone used one.....
Northern Industrial Space-Saver Parts Bender | Pipe + Bar Benders | Northern Tool + Equipment
Anyone used one.....
hey Brian. That is a pipe bender. NOT a tube bender.
Pipe is for poop.
Tube is for our rigs.
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Why would you say pipe is poop, and not for our rigs. I have a friend that build a complete exo including front and rear bumbers, winch mounts, integrated safari rack all from pipe.
He got it from a steel recycling company. Most of the stuff was like new, just dents at one end or the other and rusted from being in the weather. If they get damaged or rusted up too much builders don't always use them and you can get them at a fraction of the price. You can probably save 50% if not more going this route.
He got it from a steel recycling company. Most of the stuff was like new, just dents at one end or the other and rusted from being in the weather. If they get damaged or rusted up too much builders don't always use them and you can get them at a fraction of the price. You can probably save 50% if not more going this route.
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We used the tube shark and it worked great, only problem was it was deforming the inside bends badly.
I have used both the Pro Tools and the JD,but by far the best bender I have ever used is a Tube Shark.Before I used one I thought it looked like a pain to use.But vertical bending is the sh*t!!I dont even know how to explain how much easier it is to use than a horizontal bender.Now that I think about it I can ;p One of the greatest things about it is that you can just slap your angle finder on the the tube while bending to get the bend that you want.No degree ring or POS protractor BS to deal with .And then there is the Tube Shark software,that is a whole nother thing of pure joy
I have used quite a few notchers also.And as far as hole saw notchers go the JMR piece is the best I have used so far
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Looks pretty but from a strength stand point, go read a pile on this topic on Pirates.
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I have pro tools that I converted over to air/hydraulic using the HF ram and the copperhead fab bracket. I can tell you that although the copperhead bracket ended up working out I had to spend ALOT of time fixing the "quality" issues of the copperhead bracket. Honestly I was really disappointed when it came. For the amount I payed for the bracket it really should just bolt up. I bought the bracket so I wouldn't have to deal with fabbing one up... and in the end I spent just as much time fixing the issues as it would have taken me to make one.
Anyway here's the pic of the bender converted. I will say its nice that it doesnt have to be bolted to the floor anymore (I mounted it on a steel "cart").
Anyway here's the pic of the bender converted. I will say its nice that it doesnt have to be bolted to the floor anymore (I mounted it on a steel "cart").
Converting the bender to air/hydraulic was really easy. A conversion kit really should be a simple deal.
Portable was 95% of why I did the conversion. Wear was probably the rest. I have lots of slave labor to pull on the handle for me..
What kind of lube are you using?
This bender is used for small flat strap and tiny tube or pipe. Not for anything very large.
If I was ever in a roll over, I would want my cage built from tube, not schedule 40 pipe.
Because there is no outside support on the bend. There is not a very good counter die on the Tube Shark.
Why..
Pipe is a dimension, not a material. Pipe can be made with just about anything. As can tube...
Just like saying "I want my cage made out of DOM"
Dom is a process, not a material
I can get you copper DOM tubing if you want...
What kind of lube are you using? WD-40?
I have been selling tube benders and notchers to the off road crowd all over the country for years and have only run into a few people who have used schedule 40 pipe for a crawler or a roll cage.
99.9% of off road buggies, race car chassis, roll cage applications I have dealt with are made from DOM, chromolly or mild steel tube.
I understand that it is not as common, but again. The question is material, not necessarialy a process.
Sch 40 can have the same Mil certs as mild steel tubing. It is just a certain thickness based on the pipe diameter instead of the true listed wall thickness..
The "DOM" that people refer to is typialy mild steel. But again, that is a process, not a material.. Dom, can be almost any type of metal..
What makes "pipe" bad?
Just cause it has always been done that way does not mean it is correct...
Pipe is not "bad"
Could part of the problem be that pipe doesn't fit the dies that most benders have.
1 1/2" pipe is 1.9" in diameter - tube is 1 1/2"
2" pipe is 2.375" in diameter - tube is 2"
etc. etc.
Most prefer DOM (Drawn-Over-Mandrel) tube in safety structures because it is perceived as stronger than pipe or ERW (Electrical-Resistance-Welded) tube because DOM has no weld. DOM is in fact a welded product. The strength comes from the process used to make DOM after it is welded.
There are a couple of ways to make DOM tube.
One is flat stock is formed into a tube and then resistance welded. The weld flash both internally and externally is removed after the welding process. The tube can have further hot processess done after this process to either increase or decrease the wall thickness and O.D. size. After these processes the tube is cut to the draw length, coated with a drawing compound, one end is crimped for the draw bench grippers and finally drawn through an external die with a mandrel held in the center.
Another way is it's actually a friction pressure lap weld, there is no type of filler used, the tube is drawn over a spinning mandrel by two other spinning mandrels, the extreme pressure and friction from the spinning roller welds the pipe. True seamless tube is done by actually shearing a hole thru solid billet material. Technically this is also "DOM".
DOM is a very effective tubing due to the high strength from the cold working process. Work hardening, strain hardening, or cold working is the strengthening of a material by plastic deformation without heating. In metallic crystals, irreversible deformation is usually carried out on a microscopic scale by defects called dislocations, which are created by fluctuations in local stress fields within the material culminating in a lattice rearrangement as the dislocations propagate through the lattice. At normal temperatures the dislocations are not annihilated by annealing. Instead, the dislocations accumulate, interact with one another, and serve as pinning points or obstacles that significantly impede their motion. This leads to an increase in the yield strength of the material and a subsequent decrease in ductility.
In other words DOM is better for safety structures because it is stronger. To be cost conscious I would make bumpers and sliders out of ERW and roll cages from DOM.
Could part of the problem be that pipe doesn't fit the dies that most benders have.
1 1/2" pipe is 1.9" in diameter - tube is 1 1/2"
2" pipe is 2.375" in diameter - tube is 2"
etc. etc.
Most prefer DOM (Drawn-Over-Mandrel) tube in safety structures because it is perceived as stronger than pipe or ERW (Electrical-Resistance-Welded) tube because DOM has no weld. DOM is in fact a welded product. The strength comes from the process used to make DOM after it is welded.
There are a couple of ways to make DOM tube.
One is flat stock is formed into a tube and then resistance welded. The weld flash both internally and externally is removed after the welding process. The tube can have further hot processess done after this process to either increase or decrease the wall thickness and O.D. size. After these processes the tube is cut to the draw length, coated with a drawing compound, one end is crimped for the draw bench grippers and finally drawn through an external die with a mandrel held in the center.
Another way is it's actually a friction pressure lap weld, there is no type of filler used, the tube is drawn over a spinning mandrel by two other spinning mandrels, the extreme pressure and friction from the spinning roller welds the pipe. True seamless tube is done by actually shearing a hole thru solid billet material. Technically this is also "DOM".
DOM is a very effective tubing due to the high strength from the cold working process. Work hardening, strain hardening, or cold working is the strengthening of a material by plastic deformation without heating. In metallic crystals, irreversible deformation is usually carried out on a microscopic scale by defects called dislocations, which are created by fluctuations in local stress fields within the material culminating in a lattice rearrangement as the dislocations propagate through the lattice. At normal temperatures the dislocations are not annihilated by annealing. Instead, the dislocations accumulate, interact with one another, and serve as pinning points or obstacles that significantly impede their motion. This leads to an increase in the yield strength of the material and a subsequent decrease in ductility.
In other words DOM is better for safety structures because it is stronger. To be cost conscious I would make bumpers and sliders out of ERW and roll cages from DOM.
All good points, but again you really cannot make these statements without some qualification on material. Metallurgy has just as much if not more impact on the material strength as the mechanical process it undergoes...
99% of the cages in this world are made out of ERW (CREW and HREW) as well..
Very true. But, running out to the tubing vendor to get 100' for a project, I have no control over the metalurgy of the material I buy (other than consumer demand). They sell what they have. They have "steel" ERW or "steel" DOM or pipe. Pipe doesn't fit my dies. DOM is twice the price. I'll make my cage from DOM and bumpers from ERW.
In other words - unless I buy mill run quantities I can't dictate the % C, Si, Mn, P, Cr, Ni, Cu, etc. in my structural material.