trouble starting my FJ80 in cold weather

[streetlights]

I was wondering if anyone on here could give me some ideas about what the issue may be with my FJ80. In cold weather when I stick the key in the ignition and turn the engine barely starts to turn and then shuts off...after about two tries the engine will turn and the car will start. My battery is good and so is the connection, I just recently replaced the alternator. Has anyone dealt with this issue, I don't understand why this would happen in cold weather.

Thanks!

 

[neal0124]

Extreme cold can make it difficult for the battery to pump enough juice to start an engine. How cold is it getting?

 

[streetlights]

its not that cold...i live in the bay area, its probably about 50 degrees in the morning...last night there was frost on my car when i tried to start it and it had a hard time starting

 

[neal0124]

I'm in Los Angeles, it doesn't get that cold down here either, and I'm sure that 50 degrees isn't enough to give the battery problems. So I couldn't give you any definitive answers.

My buddy has been having similar problems with his truck and it was a combination of problems. He changed out the coolant temp sensor, it was giving inaccurate readings to the ecu and would give him problems firing up. The engine would crank fine but wouldn't start. The next thing that gave him problems was the fusible links. One of the links was bad internally and the engine wouldn't turn over at all. Just a single click from the starter and then nothing. At one point he thought it was the fuel pump relay, but it turned out to not be the problem.

 

[streetlights]

the mechanic at the gas station by my house also thought it may be an issue with the sensor...could it be the starter?

 

[neal0124]

Does the starter click when you turn the key? I'll bet it is either a sensor or the fusible links. You can try a cheap sensor out from any parts store to see if that helps. The fusible links cost about $10 online.

My buddy has an ultra gauge on his truck and noticed that sometimes the coolant temp would read extremely low, even though the ambient temp was high. That was when the truck wouldn't start. If he cycled the key on and off enough times the gauge would eventually give a more accurate reading, then it would start. He changed the sensor and hasn't had the same problem since. Until the fusible link gave out. Then the engine wouldn't even turn over.

 

[jonheld]

It would help to know a little more about the truck, like what year it is. Also, how old is the battery?

The starter motor is directly connected to the battery. No fusible links.

From your description it points to the battery. If the starter cranks, then all logic associated with the starter is good. If it cranks slowly, then it isn't getting enough power. You also mentioned that you replaced the alternator. If the battery hasn't been charged properly and was allowed to discharge below a certain voltage, it could be done even if it's a new battery.

50F is not cold. It's a little cool for a t shirt and shorts.

 

[Stevesnj]

Sounds like the starter solenoid contacts could be worn, they can cause clicking or drag. I'd try cleaning the battery terminals and also get a check on the battery.

 

[CJF]

My battery is good and so is the connection

Nope.

 

[mattafact]

Nope.

x2. This sounds like a great excuse to get a Die Hard Platinum.

 

[streetlights]

thanks for all of the help guys...

about the battery, i had it tested when the alternator was replaced and it was good...the landcruiser is a 91 with 138k miles...all of the gauge readings on the dash are normal too...im at my parents house but when i get back to my house ill turn the key to see if the starter clicks, if that doesn't work im assuming it would be a sensor...but would there be anyway that i could find out which sensor it is?

 

[RockDoc]

This is a 3FE, correct?

Here's what I would do. Remove and clean all connections between the battery and starter on both the positive and ground sides. Even if it isn't the issue, it's a good thing to do. Try and see if you issue is still there. If it isn't, great, your problem was poor/corroded connections.... if it is, try boosting with another vehicle. If this cures it, sounds like you need a new battery, or your charging system is in poor shape. If you still have an issue, I would pull the starter, clean it up and put new contacts in it. I've replaced the contacts in two starters now and that has cured intermittent no start (i.e. click, no start), weak crank and starter run-on after the ignition is turned back to run from start. It's very easy to do and cheap... I'll go see if I can dig up the details.

 

[RockDoc]

Starter contact replacement info: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Starter.shtml

 

[jonheld]

The starter circuit is very simple. There are no sensors or other electronics in play. Only switches and solenoids, wires and a battery.
Starter contacts wear out and can cause intermittent cranking of the starter motor. I suppose they could also cause a voltage drop if they are worn severely enough.

The other suggestions are valid and should be looked into. I'd still put my money on the battery.

 

[diego355]

Test your battery and add better grounds to the battery and the engine. Mine just have that and starts like a champ untill it gets around -20 -30 Celcius. In LA or the bay temps it shouldnt be a problem

 

[streetlights]

awesome!
thanks for the help to all that posted...im going to try these things out and see if it solves the problem...thanks again for your help

 

[Von Hayek]

Another thing you might want to check is the ground running from the starter to the frame. The ground strap on my 62 looked perfect on the outside, but literally blew apart one day and was discovered to be completely corroded internally.

I think that a thorough electrical check is in order. I'll bet there is someone in your local club who is a multi-meter guru.

 

[jonheld]

Another thing you might want to check is the ground running from the starter to the frame.

There is no ground strap from the starter to the frame. The starter has only 2 connections. From the battery positive terminal to the motor lug, and from the starter logic to the solenoid.

The starter is grounded through the mount to the bellhousing.

The FSM mentions a ground strap, but it isn't there on my truck.

 

[Bendcruiser]

Check and clean "cold start injector" I did it, easy job. Good luck.

 

[12112321AKYLE]

Test your battery and add better grounds to the battery and the engine. Mine just have that and starts like a champ untill it gets around -20 -30 Celcius. In LA or the bay temps it shouldnt be a problem

What do you do for the extreme temperatures? I am facing them now as I'm driving up through Canada to Fairbanks, Alaska. It's currently -32°F in Wainwright, Alberta where I am right now and I am fearing tomorrow morning's start. I have a battery heater wrapped around my battery and a magnetic oil pan heater on the oil pan right now, hopefully these help.
This morning I started up the 1FZ-FE in -24°F with no heaters. It barely wanted to start. Eventually it climbed in rpm up to like 2500 and started bouncing the rpm from up at 2500 down to about 1000rpm over and over again.. any thoughts on that? It stopped after it was warmed up thoroughly and returned to a normal idle.