TRE tool

[ccasteel]

Does anyone have a better tool for removing TRE's than a pickle fork? It's just not getting the job done.

 

[1MAC]

I have a puller, but won't be home until tomorrow. Can also rent from O'Reilly for free.

 

[leucadiacruiser]

I just did this. I rented the universal tie rod remover from O'Reilly's. A few turns and pop and with an intact boot even.

 

[ccasteel]

D'Oh! Didn't even think about loaners from O'Reilly's. Thanks.

 

[ccasteel]

Thanks @1MAC and @leucadiacruiser for the suggestion. Success.

 

[ccasteel]

Okay, what now? I used the advice from MUD and used my old race to install my new race. Now how do I get my old race back out?

 

[Robkc]

D'oh, Usually would use thick side to thin so that you could brass drift it back out on the slight lip exposed. I think you might have to drive both out and start over.

 

[tornadoalleycruiser]

I keep old races as drivers but ground off the od so they come back out

 

[ccasteel]

D'oh, Usually would use thick side to thin so that you could brass drift it back out on the slight lip exposed. I think you might have to drive both out and start over.

Lol. I mean really. Lol.

 

[2fpower]

I always cut a slice in the old race.

 

[ccasteel]

Do you guys think I could take these both out and reinstall the new race? Or am I going to need to buy a new bearing?

While your here let me ask about the castle nut on my TRE. I torqued it down correctly, but these 555 TRE's only have one hole drilled for the cotter pin and it didn't line up. Would you tighten it further or loosen it to get in the cotter pin?

 

[2fpower]

if you are punching with brass drift(so it will not damage the race), then yes, push it out enough to pop out your old race, then push back in.

On TRE, how much rotation do you need to line up? If more than 1/8 turn I would back off. If really only one hole, and you are then back nut all the way off, grind bottom of nut a little bit, then reinstall.

 

[tornadoalleycruiser]

I tighten manually never had a issue will tighten that 1/16 of a turn tighter to get pin in.

 

[ccasteel]

Got the races out and back in. Got the bearings packed. Followed the FSM when putting it all back together.

Torque the first adjusting nut to 43 ft-lb then back off.
Re-torque to 38-57 in-lb (I used 50) and spin hub.
Check preload is between 9.5 - 15.0 lb

Here's where I'm baffled. My fancy preload sst (fish scale) barely reads 1 lb before it begins to spin. As a matter of fact, I checked with it torqued down to the 43 ft-lb and it registered between 9.5-15 lb.

What's more important, my torque settings, or my preload?

 

[cjmoon]

In my opinion preload. I've always set my wheel bearings by the feel of how they spin.

 

[Robkc]

definitely preload