TRD Break Pads vs. Original (1 Viewer)

[JackSilb]

Hello,

I have a 1995 TLC. Need to get some better breaks. Not bad, but you always want more. I was doing MOAB a couple weeks back. The TLC did not really want to stop when I wanted it to. I guess much heavier compared to my 4Runner.

I have the following break fluid http://www.trackhaus.com/product-exec/product_id/144

I see that people are using the 100 series break pads into the 80s. Nice idea!

How about we talk a bit about the type of break pads?
- Toyota TRD vs. Toyota Regular
- Premium Bendix Semi Metallic 100 Series
- Brembo

- Semi metallic vs. Ceramic

Thanks,
-JACK

 

[Rookie2]

Probably doesn't specifically answer your question, but FWIW I believe most of the regulars are running 100 series. The common response I've seen is stick with OEM.

and welcome.
Rookie2

 

[JackSilb]

Thank you for the welcome.
I have been reading the posts for a while. Lots of cool information.
I hope people will comment on my question. It may help others in the future.

If the TRD pads are better, then I will get these. I found them for ~$50.00
I used them on my 4Runner while back. But they damaged the rotors. I end having to replace the pads and rotors in a very short time. I am using Brembo semi metallic now.

Thanks in advance.
-JACK

 

[cary]

I remember hearing about the TRD pads not being so great for the LC. A smart shopper would pm cdan on this list for the best prices and service on factory parts.

Cary

 

[zonka]

I retooled my rig with OEM disks all the way around with 100 pads in the front and oem 80 in the rear. The brake system was bled several times until the pedal came up off the floor. The results have been great. Its got much better stopping power now and control while off roading. Got a good deal with the smart shopper method.

 

[bjowett]

There are many great pads out there... to think oem would have the best performancing compound is pushing it. They are made to stop everyday soccer moms, be very quiet, and usually, though not always the case, be light on dust. Not to mention the economics involved.

Mintex Red Box, Metal Masters, TRD etc. are all great pads with a bit more bite. Hot tip, Performance Friction once made the TRD pads, not sure fi they are still under contract(?)... get the PF pads number 5024... like $35ish at most big chains.

 

[turbocruiser]

I debated making this more of its own thread but since its brake pads vs. brake pads I'll post this on this thread. Within a while, I will have to replace the pads that are on my rig. I have the DBA slottted and drilled rotors and the PBR "4WD" Performance Pads currently. I am considering going to the PBR Semi Metallic but they basically say that stopping performance is increased at the expense of decreased rotor life. Can anyone quantify that? In other words, how drastically decreased will rotor life be with these more aggressive pads compared to the PBR 4WD like I have now or even the PBR ceramic pads? Does anyone around here personally use these pads? Would it be a mistake to put these new PBR pads on my old (approx 75K) DBA rotors? As always, thanks for any advice.

 

[robbie]

If maintained the rotor will last a very long time with the stock brake pad material. If you switch to a more agressive material you will cut the life of the rotor. So with more ageressive SM pad you may see 1/3 less life out of the rotor. With a more agressive Metallic or carbon matalic pad you may see 1/2 life. With cermic pad I would be less life out of the rotor than the Carbon Metalic. I had a set of rotors on the 94 that had well over 150k miles on them and still good to go. All using the toyota pads (100 series on front). remember that the front rotor is bolted on to the inside of the hub, so if you need to replace them you will need readjust the bearing at a minmum, at the most a bearing repack at the same time. As for DBA rotors, they do not recomend much more than stock pads or at the most a lite SM pad. Al at man-a-fre suggest Metal Master, but I do think these will wear the rotor faster. It all is a trade some where. pads are cheaper and easier to put in than rotors, your choice. later robbie

 

[turbocruiser]

If maintained the rotor will last a very long time with the stock brake pad material. If you switch to a more agressive material you will cut the life of the rotor. So with more ageressive SM pad you may see 1/3 less life out of the rotor. With a more agressive Metallic or carbon matalic pad you may see 1/2 life. With cermic pad I would be less life out of the rotor than the Carbon Metalic. I had a set of rotors on the 94 that had well over 150k miles on them and still good to go. All using the toyota pads (100 series on front). remember that the front rotor is bolted on to the inside of the hub, so if you need to replace them you will need readjust the bearing at a minmum, at the most a bearing repack at the same time. As for DBA rotors, they do not recomend much more than stock pads or at the most a lite SM pad. Al at man-a-fre suggest Metal Master, but I do think these will wear the rotor faster. It all is a trade some where. pads are cheaper and easier to put in than rotors, your choice. later robbie

Robbie, thanks as always, this goes right away to my own FAQ section in my documents folder!!! I think I will stick with the PBR 4WD as they seem to work well. Also, its time to get some of your new stainless steel lines!!! Thanks again, I appreciate the advice.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Turbo I have been using the PBR ceramic on the front for 12k. The DBA rep that also drives a built 80 recommended them. Didn’t seem to fade as much, stopping was the same and the dust level is low. I did have a hard time getting them to bed, finally gave up and they bedded themselves. Getting ready to turn the rotors and move to 100 pads and see if that makes a difference in braking.

Phil

 

[turbocruiser]

Turbo I have been using the PBR ceramic on the front for 12k. The DBA rep that also drives a built 80 recommended them. Didn’t seem to fade as much, stopping was the same and the dust level is low. I did have a hard time getting them to bed, finally gave up and they bedded themselves. Getting ready to turn the rotors and move to 100 pads and see if that makes a difference in braking.

Phil

Phil, thanks man, yes I would love to learn how the 100 pads compare to the Ceramic PBR's!!! I'd also love to learn how pbr's ceramics compare to the pbr performance pads called 4WD. I got the impression that the 4WD's actually braked better than the ceramics and that the cermics were more for heat resistance than better braking? Its hard to tell from the descriptions of the pads themselves. Anyway, I've got a little time to wait but this will be the first time I replace the pads since I got my rig so I want to make the right choice. Thanks again.

 

[Landpimp]

the TRD pads SUCK. They were once good when made my Performance(I think) but now(or they were) made in england and SUCK!!!!

Axis Metal Master is my bad of choice, I love those pads.

got DBA sloted rotor and MM pads on the 80 and 60, love em. Cant speak to rotor life as heck I just dont put alot of miles on anyone cruiser anymore.

 

[Landpimp]

there is a new superduper DBA rotor coming out(or out) Al wanted me to test a pair out......I just didn't have the time to mess with them, kinda wish I did. These might be for just the 8/80-90 Cruisers......I forget.

pad. Al at man-a-fre suggest Metal Master, but I do think these will wear the rotor faster. It all is a trade some where. pads are cheaper and easier to put in than rotors, your choice. later robbie

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Phil, thanks man, yes I would love to learn how the 100 pads compare to the Ceramic PBR's!!! I'd also love to learn how pbr's ceramics compare to the pbr performance pads called 4WD. I got the impression that the 4WD's actually braked better than the ceramics and that the cermics were more for heat resistance than better braking? Its hard to tell from the descriptions of the pads themselves. Anyway, I've got a little time to wait but this will be the first time I replace the pads since I got my rig so I want to make the right choice. Thanks again.

Sorry I wasn’t to clear on my post

Previously PBR 4WD 80

Now PBR ceramic 80

Future PBR ceramic 100

Phil

 

[JackSilb]

Ok this is good talk.
I will use the smart shopper hint and try to read about the Performance Friction.

Where did you guys find the synthetic break fluid?

Thanks folks.
-JACK

 

[JackSilb]

Could not find Performance Friction Pads for a 98 TLC (100 series)
Is anyone here using them?

-JACK

 

[turbocruiser]

Sorry I wasn’t to clear on my post

Previously PBR 4WD 80

Now PBR ceramic 80

Future PBR ceramic 100

Phil

Okay, cool, so were the PBR Ceramic's better braking than the PBR 4WD's? Thanks.

 

[cary]

Ok this is good talk.
I will use the smart shopper hint and try to read about the Performance Friction.

Where did you guys find the synthetic break fluid?

Thanks folks.
-JACK

Skip the synthetic fluid for brakes. The ATE Super Blue you had in your original post is about as good as you will get outside of Motul Race Fluid. Use that and flush it every 2 years.

Cary

 

[Beowulf]

there is a new superduper DBA rotor coming out

Any chance you would be interested in putting together a group buy?

-B-

 

[97 FZJ80]

Skip the synthetic fluid for brakes. The ATE Super Blue you had in your original post is about as good as you will get outside of Motul Race Fluid. Use that and flush it every 2 years.

Cary

The Valvoline SynPower synthetic brake fluid is a very good choice for the 80 series. Although it does not perform as well as the ATE Super Blue and Motul Race Fluid (502 deg boiling point dry vs. 600 deg for Motul), it is less hydroscopic (moisture absorbing) than Motul.

The Motul and ATE might be great for dedicated trail rigs that gets all of its fluid changed every few months. For a daily driver vehicle that gets its brake fluid flushed every 2 years, I think the Synpower is a much better choice.


John