TRD Break Pads vs. Original (1 Viewer)

[robbie]

I have the next in line rotors, the 400 series I believe for the 80 series. It is a harder material can take more agressive pads currently only comes in slotted not crossed drilled(unless this changed). It also has heat paint(3 colors) to see if the owner has over heated them thus putting them out of warranty. Material is harder, by how much i do not know(nothing in reading material and al could not give me an answer when I e-mailed him months ago). works great, lock them up with the abs off, very little fade with 100 series pads. I personally will not go to a more agressive pad does what I need. later robbie

 

[Landpimp]

nope

Any chance you would be interested in putting together a group buy?

-B-

 

[Landpimp]

AFAIK they are not making Cruiser pads anymore, PF is who at one time made the TRD pads, they were a good pad then.

Could not find Performance Friction Pads for a 98 TLC (100 series)
Is anyone here using them?

-JACK

 

[Landpimp]

those sound like the ones Al was talking about.

I have the next in line rotors, the 400 series I believe for the 80 series. It is a harder material can take more agressive pads currently only comes in slotted not crossed drilled(unless this changed). It also has heat paint(3 colors) to see if the owner has over heated them thus putting them out of warranty. Material is harder, by how much i do not know(nothing in reading material and al could not give me an answer when I e-mailed him months ago). works great, lock them up with the abs off, very little fade with 100 series pads. I personally will not go to a more agressive pad does what I need. later robbie

 

[hoser]

As you may know PBR is the same as Axxis (manufactured by Bendix Mintex). Not sure of the source but here's one COMPARISON between the Axxis Deluxe Plus, Metal Master and Ceramic brake pads. No information on 4x4 pads.

 

[cary]

The Valvoline SynPower synthetic brake fluid is a very good choice for the 80 series. Although it does not perform as well as the ATE Super Blue and Motul Race Fluid (502 deg boiling point dry vs. 600 deg for Motul), it is less hydroscopic (moisture absorbing) than Motul.

The Motul and ATE might be great for dedicated trail rigs that gets all of its fluid changed every few months. For a daily driver vehicle that gets its brake fluid flushed every 2 years, I think the Synpower is a much better choice.


John

Just to clarify, the ATE is a street fluid. The only difference between the regular ATE and the super blue is there is dye in the super blue so when you bleed you can easily tell when the new fluid comes through. Most track junkies go back and forth between the two ATE's.

You are correct the Motul Race fluid is not designed for street use and I should have been clear when I referenced it that it was for track use only.

Finally, the valvoline Synpower is a good fluid, but is not a synthetic brake fluid. I don't know why the lable it that way. It definetely has a higher wet and dry boiling temp than the old standby Castrol LMA. If I didn't use the ATE, it would be my choice.

Cary

 

[97 FZJ80]

Finally, the valvoline Synpower is a good fluid, but is not a synthetic brake fluid. I don't know why the lable it that way. It definetely has a higher wet and dry boiling temp than the old standby Castrol LMA.

Valvoline Synpower is synthetic, it's not the same formulation as the older synthetic silicon DOT 5 fluid. Synpower is DOT 3/4 and fully compatiable with other non-DOT 5 fluid.

John