Travelling Cruisers
- Thread starter soenke
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- Thread starter
- #262
on the glacier, just on save ground...
Hi Sönke,
I have been looking at your rig for months on many different sites around the world.
As your truck is so well made, you must be used now with compliments. However here are mine.
I have got a question if you don't mind : how did you manage to get the roof junction with the walls water, wind and dustproof (when opened) ?
I am actually working out a similar project on a hzj79.
Thanks in advance for your usefull informations.
I have been looking at your rig for months on many different sites around the world.
As your truck is so well made, you must be used now with compliments. However here are mine.
I have got a question if you don't mind : how did you manage to get the roof junction with the walls water, wind and dustproof (when opened) ?
I am actually working out a similar project on a hzj79.
Thanks in advance for your usefull informations.
- Thread starter
- #264
thanks,
we used a brush to seal between the two walls. It sits on the top end of the innerwall pointing to the outer wall wich will be brushed when the roof is elevated...
like this:
we used a brush to seal between the two walls. It sits on the top end of the innerwall pointing to the outer wall wich will be brushed when the roof is elevated...
like this:
Thanks Sönke,
As we are on the roof......
I have spent time looking on the french dealer of Bansbach web site and I must say I am lost.
Different references, different catalogue, !!!!
Can you help me with this ?
What is exactly needed to build the opening mechanism ?
I understood 4 cylinders easylift A type (only 150kg on the french catalog ?)
Could you please give me a sketch and a list ?
As we are on the roof......
I have spent time looking on the french dealer of Bansbach web site and I must say I am lost.
Different references, different catalogue, !!!!
Can you help me with this ?
What is exactly needed to build the opening mechanism ?
I understood 4 cylinders easylift A type (only 150kg on the french catalog ?)
Could you please give me a sketch and a list ?
- Thread starter
- #266
sorry, I don´t have any more information then I have written here before...it´s to long ago already...
I would think about an elektrik teleskop lift to, I have heard they became more reliable, but I am not familiar with the news on that market.
I would think about an elektrik teleskop lift to, I have heard they became more reliable, but I am not familiar with the news on that market.
Bogo
FOOF
Possible lift mechanisms for pop up tops. I'll ignore the types that won't work for a hard sided pop up. That is any one that doesn't raise and lower the top uniformly.
Cable lift: Uses uses cables and sliding telescoping bars with pulleys at their ends. Works well, and is cheap to make in volume, but difficult for small runs. Lifted height can easily be taller than twice unlifted height. Weight limited by the strength of the components. You could scavenge the mechanism from an existing pop-up camper. The cables for each corner would be clamped together with one proceeding on to a winch which is used to raise and lower the top. Conceptually the simplest, and if you scavenge the lift columns from a old pop up camper likely the easiest to make, and repair with parts available world wide.
Hydraulic cylinders at each corner: Easy to install, height usually limited to a few inches shorter than unextended cylinder length unless dual stage cylinders are used. They increase cost allot. Balancing the hydraulic fluid flow to each cylinder requires a special splitter. While raised you should support the top by other means as fluid will flow though the splitter from cylinder to cylinder and the top may jam or get out of alignment. A hydraulic pump and reservoir are needed. An advantage of using this system is the hydraulic pump can be mounted high and out of the way of water, and all mechanisms below could be waterproofed.
Coil spring in tubes: Harder to install, as conduit tubes need to be bent and installed for each corner. Could still be home built, but savaging the mechanism from a pop up camper is possible. Lift height is limited to the length of the machine screw used to push on the springs. Principal is you have a coil of spring which is pushed through a tube. When you push on one end, the other end moves because each wrap of the spring rests against the neighboring ones. The hard part is the mechanism to push on the springs. It could use a machine screw and crank, or a cable and crank. The machine screw needs to handle the full load of the top in compression so a cheap bolt style threaded rod won't do. Look for "machine screws" or "lead screws".
Machine screws are available from many sources and near the cheapest can be used as no precision is needed, just reasonably smooth operation. At one end of the rod is the crank handle and a thrust bearing. The thrust bearing is firmly mounted to the camper. On the machine screw is a traveling bearing. It moves in a rectangular tube. Attached to that traveling bearing is a plate that just fills the inside of the rectangular tube. The plate is attached to one end of each of the 4 springs used to push the top up. At the far end of the rectangular tube each of the coil springs goes into it's own conduit. That conduit is routed to it's own lift point. The spring exits the conduit going straight up. Usually a set of telescoping tubes is used to contain it as it is pushed out the end of the conduit so it doesn't bend.
This patent shows a similar system, but it uses a cable to pull on the spring ends for moving them to raise the top. US Patent 5769485 - Page 1 Image - Top lift system for pop-up campers Nice picture diagrams. You can see the telescoping tubes in figure 3 on page 4. The method of actuation I described with the machine screw is no longer patented. There is also a cable drawn version with the springs all brought together like the machine screw one uses. It too should be no longer patented. I do like this design as it reduces the mechanism to two identical units.
Cable lift: Uses uses cables and sliding telescoping bars with pulleys at their ends. Works well, and is cheap to make in volume, but difficult for small runs. Lifted height can easily be taller than twice unlifted height. Weight limited by the strength of the components. You could scavenge the mechanism from an existing pop-up camper. The cables for each corner would be clamped together with one proceeding on to a winch which is used to raise and lower the top. Conceptually the simplest, and if you scavenge the lift columns from a old pop up camper likely the easiest to make, and repair with parts available world wide.
Hydraulic cylinders at each corner: Easy to install, height usually limited to a few inches shorter than unextended cylinder length unless dual stage cylinders are used. They increase cost allot. Balancing the hydraulic fluid flow to each cylinder requires a special splitter. While raised you should support the top by other means as fluid will flow though the splitter from cylinder to cylinder and the top may jam or get out of alignment. A hydraulic pump and reservoir are needed. An advantage of using this system is the hydraulic pump can be mounted high and out of the way of water, and all mechanisms below could be waterproofed.
Coil spring in tubes: Harder to install, as conduit tubes need to be bent and installed for each corner. Could still be home built, but savaging the mechanism from a pop up camper is possible. Lift height is limited to the length of the machine screw used to push on the springs. Principal is you have a coil of spring which is pushed through a tube. When you push on one end, the other end moves because each wrap of the spring rests against the neighboring ones. The hard part is the mechanism to push on the springs. It could use a machine screw and crank, or a cable and crank. The machine screw needs to handle the full load of the top in compression so a cheap bolt style threaded rod won't do. Look for "machine screws" or "lead screws".
Machine screws are available from many sources and near the cheapest can be used as no precision is needed, just reasonably smooth operation. At one end of the rod is the crank handle and a thrust bearing. The thrust bearing is firmly mounted to the camper. On the machine screw is a traveling bearing. It moves in a rectangular tube. Attached to that traveling bearing is a plate that just fills the inside of the rectangular tube. The plate is attached to one end of each of the 4 springs used to push the top up. At the far end of the rectangular tube each of the coil springs goes into it's own conduit. That conduit is routed to it's own lift point. The spring exits the conduit going straight up. Usually a set of telescoping tubes is used to contain it as it is pushed out the end of the conduit so it doesn't bend.
This patent shows a similar system, but it uses a cable to pull on the spring ends for moving them to raise the top. US Patent 5769485 - Page 1 Image - Top lift system for pop-up campers Nice picture diagrams. You can see the telescoping tubes in figure 3 on page 4. The method of actuation I described with the machine screw is no longer patented. There is also a cable drawn version with the springs all brought together like the machine screw one uses. It too should be no longer patented. I do like this design as it reduces the mechanism to two identical units.
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travel&vehicleinsurance
Hello Soenke,
I am working towards a drive to the bottom of South America (and back); i am in Canada. I do not know where to look for auto insurance; any information you can provide will be appreciated. Nice Cruiser, a well thought-out build from the looks of it. Mine is currently in the building process.
Cheers, n
Hello Soenke,
I am working towards a drive to the bottom of South America (and back); i am in Canada. I do not know where to look for auto insurance; any information you can provide will be appreciated. Nice Cruiser, a well thought-out build from the looks of it. Mine is currently in the building process.
Cheers, n
Bogo
FOOF
I'd ask over at Expedition Portal in their forums:
ExPo : Vehicle Dependent Overland Community
Insurance varies allot form country to country.
- Thread starter
- #270
that would have been my advice too, I think someone will be able to help you.
On our long Afrika trip we just kept the german insurance, wich was valid international, and bought additional lokal insurance when required for passing the border...
On our long Afrika trip we just kept the german insurance, wich was valid international, and bought additional lokal insurance when required for passing the border...
LAMBCRUSHER
SILVER Star
Uber cool rig, Soenke! Sorry if I missed it, but what are the rough dimensions of the cabin(length, width)Thanks!
- Thread starter
- #272
Hey Lambcrusher
length is 2.4m (2.0m floorlevel) width 1.98m
length is 2.4m (2.0m floorlevel) width 1.98m
LAMBCRUSHER
SILVER Star
Thank You!!! I'm off to the drawing board! Danke!
Those Iceland pictures are truly amazing. Thanks for sharing.
- Thread starter
- #275
just got some time to look over the pics again, some to share:
cold and windy costline
the morning light
entering the highlands
very wet in the Landmannalaugár area
but we have never been alone there befor
towards one of our favorit areas
cold and windy costline
the morning light
entering the highlands
very wet in the Landmannalaugár area
but we have never been alone there befor
towards one of our favorit areas
- Thread starter
- #276
about 1000m nn in the clouds and vulcanic smoke
down towards Fjallabak again
always visiting "old steamy"
perfekt place for dinner...
waterlevels are down again
coast mountain... an old farm trail
down towards Fjallabak again
always visiting "old steamy"
perfekt place for dinner...
waterlevels are down again
coast mountain... an old farm trail
Falco80
Burning dinosaur bones...
Spectacular photos once again Soenke! I never tire of looking at your Landcruiser. 
This photo should be a poster or a large print i think. You could sell them...i'd buy one!
V
V
V
This photo should be a poster or a large print i think. You could sell them...i'd buy one!
V
V
V
- Thread starter
- #278
thanks Dan, I don´t want to bore you guys....
but the colours suffer from sending them through the www
but the colours suffer from sending them through the www
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Bogo
FOOF
When outputting images for the web the colorspace needs to be set to sRGB. Other than that it is making sure your monitor is color calibrated.thanks Dan, I don´t want to bore you guys....
but the colours suffer from sending them through the www
Great photos SOENKE!!! 
