Transmission Fluid Drain and Refill on 2011 LX570

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Thanks, @bloc the AHC fluid contamination was on my radar. McGeorge Toyota in VA still has some of the 2.5L metal jugs and sells them online, so I ordered those. I haven’t inspected the fluid yet but the cans are sealed and I’m hoping they’re ok. Figured I’d do AHC first and build a little confidence for the trans flush!
I did a AHC flush and I see the difference, before it used to squeal slightly when I enabled 'that' mode when it lowers after we turn off the truck. After AHC flush it stopped that squeal.
 
you should go buy a lottery ticket :) , the previous owner must have done a fluid change on tran or you live it a rust free zone.
lol yeah on of the few perks of living in CA and buying a car that never left the pavement of the state. Based on the super dark color of the fluid i imagine it was the original when I changed it out at 95k. I plan on doing fluid changes every 75k.
 
Great thread and excellent video. I followed a similar procedure on my 100 when I replaced ATF. The main difference with my 100 is I hooked up the "fill" line to the hose coming off the cooler. In other words, I drained from the cooler stub and then filled into the hose that was on the stub. This flushed the line from the cooler to the transmission as well.

Does anyone see a reason not to do it this way on the 200?

Thanks!
 
Great thread and excellent video. I followed a similar procedure on my 100 when I replaced ATF. The main difference with my 100 is I hooked up the "fill" line to the hose coming off the cooler. In other words, I drained from the cooler stub and then filled into the hose that was on the stub. This flushed the line from the cooler to the transmission as well.

Does anyone see a reason not to do it this way on the 200?

Thanks!
I've not done the procedure myself but my initial thought was to do this by just dropping that line into the new jug of fluid. However I believe this won't work on the 200 because while the transmission will circulate fluid out of the pan (which you capture), there's no mechanism to suck fluid into the pan - that line relies on the pressure from the moving fluid. I would think if you temporarily installed a hose barb and a longer piece of hose (or had a really long funnel) you could fill it through that hose instead of through the fill port though.
 
I've not done the procedure myself but my initial thought was to do this by just dropping that line into the new jug of fluid. However I believe this won't work on the 200 because while the transmission will circulate fluid out of the pan (which you capture), there's no mechanism to suck fluid into the pan - that line relies on the pressure from the moving fluid. I would think if you temporarily installed a hose barb and a longer piece of hose (or had a really long funnel) you could fill it through that hose instead of through the fill port though.

Thats exactly what I was going to say, the pan is a sump.
And if you did want to pull a vacuum somehow, you may be fiddling with fill levels which, if youre not dropping the pan, is better avoided IMHamateurO.
Best way to replenish is gravity feed i would say.
 
Thats exactly what I was going to say, the pan is a sump.
And if you did want to pull a vacuum somehow, you may be fiddling with fill levels which, if youre not dropping the pan, is better avoided IMHamateurO.
Best way to replenish is gravity feed i would say.
Those are both good points. On my 100 I elevated the fill funnel and gravity fed it back into the transmission. The two flow rates (drain and fill) didn't match exactly. So, I had to shut off the engine one or two times to let the fill catch up.

I think this would work for the 200 also. If I go that route, I'll post the results here.
 
I've not done the procedure myself but my initial thought was to do this by just dropping that line into the new jug of fluid. However I believe this won't work on the 200 because while the transmission will circulate fluid out of the pan (which you capture), there's no mechanism to suck fluid into the pan - that line relies on the pressure from the moving fluid. I would think if you temporarily installed a hose barb and a longer piece of hose (or had a really long funnel) you could fill it through that hose instead of through the fill port though.
I wouldn’t assume there aren’t restrictions in this line on the way to the pan. Like possibly a check valve to keep the fluid from draining into the pan when shut down and being replaced with an air bubble.

Some of the fluid exchange machines actually have a large reservoir with a bladder inside, clean fluid on one side, and the port from your transmission line on the other. As your trans forces dirty fluid in, this pushes the diaphragm over which forces clean fluid back into the line into the pan. But it ultimately relies on the fluid flowing out of the trans for pressure.

Plus even if there weren’t restrictions.. it’s slow enough using a funnel and relatively large line into the fill port. Seems to me a gravity feed through 10mm ID line would take forever.
 
I've not done the procedure myself but my initial thought was to do this by just dropping that line into the new jug of fluid. However I believe this won't work on the 200 because while the transmission will circulate fluid out of the pan (which you capture), there's no mechanism to suck fluid into the pan - that line relies on the pressure from the moving fluid. I would think if you temporarily installed a hose barb and a longer piece of hose (or had a really long funnel) you could fill it through that hose instead of through the fill port though.

Those are both good points. On my 100 I elevated the fill funnel and gravity fed it back into the transmission. The two flow rates (drain and fill) didn't match exactly. So, I had to shut off the engine one or two times to let the fill catch up.

I think this would work for the 200 also. If I go that route, I'll post the results here.

I wouldn’t assume there aren’t restrictions in this line on the way to the pan. Like possibly a check valve to keep the fluid from draining into the pan when shut down and being replaced with an air bubble.

Some of the fluid exchange machines actually have a large reservoir with a bladder inside, clean fluid on one side, and the port from your transmission line on the other. As your trans forces dirty fluid in, this pushes the diaphragm over which forces clean fluid back into the line into the pan. But it ultimately relies on the fluid flowing out of the trans for pressure.

Plus even if there weren’t restrictions.. it’s slow enough using a funnel and relatively large line into the fill port. Seems to me a gravity feed through 10mm ID line would take forever.


I found this vid interesting and informative a while back, its a bit of a slog to go through but check out the official T SSTs being used ...

 
Great thread and excellent video. I followed a similar procedure on my 100 when I replaced ATF. The main difference with my 100 is I hooked up the "fill" line to the hose coming off the cooler. In other words, I drained from the cooler stub and then filled into the hose that was on the stub. This flushed the line from the cooler to the transmission as well.

Does anyone see a reason not to do it this way on the 200?

Thanks!
I did that with my flush, and in the future flush I plan to not drop the pan but drain the pan and keep refill and remove from cooler line.
Dropping the pan is a PITA as the screws get jammed etc. When I did my transmission pan drop, I didn't find enough material at the bottom that I think dropping and cleaning the pan is necessary every 75k miles.
 
I've not done the procedure myself but my initial thought was to do this by just dropping that line into the new jug of fluid. However I believe this won't work on the 200 because while the transmission will circulate fluid out of the pan (which you capture), there's no mechanism to suck fluid into the pan - that line relies on the pressure from the moving fluid. I would think if you temporarily installed a hose barb and a longer piece of hose (or had a really long funnel) you could fill it through that hose instead of through the fill port though.
the video at 14 minute mark shows exactly how to do the cooler line flush. I kept my fill hole open with a pipe routed to the engine bay. Fill a quart till the fluid literally flows our of the fill hole. Then run the engine and drain from the cooler line till I saw fresh pink fluid. It took good 2 quarts do to this.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom