transmission fluid change

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I doubt if I will ever do a transmission service on my 2004 LX470. Its not recommended unless you tow and I don't tow or carry much more then my sorry ass around. I think the new WSATF is good for several hundred thousand miles, but I will never own mine over 120K miles and I know its good for that length of time going to the mall and back home :)

While, I think that people over-service transmissions, lifetime fluids are a falicy. BMW went to lifetime transmission fluids and has retreated to a 100k interval after experiencing a much higher level of transmission failures. I would suggest you change the fluid at 50-60k intervals as a prudent measure. It can also be a selling point.
 
While, I think that people over-service transmissions, lifetime fluids are a falicy. BMW went to lifetime transmission fluids and has retreated to a 100k interval after experiencing a much higher level of transmission failures. I would suggest you change the fluid at 50-60k intervals as a prudent measure. It can also be a selling point.

I guess since I have it serviced at the dealership and I have the CPO 100K warranty if they screwed it up during the 60K mile service it would show up before the warranty expired.
 
2003 5 speed specs in OZ state inspect oil only, and replace oil if "severe service" at 80,000kms or 50,000 miles. I am up to 60000kms and will do the complete fluid change and drop the pan for a look. I did my Ford a couple of weeks ago, found aluminium shavings built up in 3 seperate piles in the grooves in the pan, all stuck together/combined probally with metal and burnt clutch material holding them all together. I scraped/cleaned the pan, replaced the filter and gasket, filled with oil and dropped the oil cooler line and did the fluid exchange. This is after 100,000 kms since I did it last(220,000 kms total) That is why I like to drop the pan, to see what is built up in there, and to remove anything that should not be there.
 
You need one of those fiber optic cameras that physicians use for colonoscopies!
 
You need one of those fiber optic cameras that physicians use for colonoscopies!

Yes I do Jim, to shove up the local toyota branch arse. I just dropped the pan, I will tell you more in a few days time maybe.
 
One other thing for folks with 2003 landcruisers or fourrunners with the A750 5 speed with the dipstick, I aren't particually happy with the oring seal on the dipstick housing to the pan tube, if you want to protect yourself to a graeter extent I would clean up the pipe joint and run a bit of self amalgating tape around the joint so no water can enter there while crossing creeks etc.
 
One other thing for folks with 2003 landcruisers or fourrunners with the A750 5 speed with the dipstick, I aren't particually happy with the oring seal on the dipstick housing to the pan tube, if you want to protect yourself to a graeter extent I would clean up the pipe joint and run a bit of self amalgating tape around the joint so no water can enter there while crossing creeks etc.

Us Yanks don't go in that deep! If the water is all the way up to the top of the ATF dipstick, which is against the firewall, there are more pressing problems to worry about.
 
Since you are such a good bloke Jim I will make an exception, the pan dipstick tube goes up about 6 to eight inches from the bottom of the pan, then the dipstick tube runs into it with an oring seal, however the tubes are are pressed steel tubes, not machined fittings, and there is a lot of slop, and the mating tolerances are very poor so there is the possibility of water and dirt entry here without you knowing.
 
You need one of those fiber optic cameras that physicians use for colonoscopies!

yeah, those are the sheet! I would love to have one of those, so cool.


100, what other things are good to seal up from water? I thought about crossing some deep water yesterday after the endless rain, but my intake made me decide not to. Other than water in the intake and that little dipstick seal, what other things need to be protected?
 
1loudX

There are some pretty good threads on the forum about prepping for fording streams. Search for "snorkle" and "vent tube" and "fording" and you will get some info.

You have to think about extending raising the air intake and all vent tubes (from differentials, TCase) to higher elevations.
 
2003 5 speed specs in OZ state inspect oil only, and replace oil if "severe service" at 80,000kms or 50,000 miles. I am up to 60000kms and will do the complete fluid change and drop the pan for a look. .... I like to drop the pan, to see what is built up in there, and to remove anything that should not be there.

100 TD - please take some pictures for us so we can decide whether or not this is something the "overmaintain" crowd wants to do.

FSM notes on dropping the pan ...

- be careful not to damage pan flange when removing
- remove the magnets and use them to collect steel particles
- examine the particles in the pan to evaluate wear in the tranmission (Steel - bearing, gear and clutch wear, Brass (non-magnetic) - bushing wear)
- clean the pan with a non-residue cleaner
- Remove all FIPG (formed in place gasket) material from gasket surfaces using a scaper and razor blade
- clean components of all loose material
- clean sealing surfaces with a non-residue solvent (brake cleaner ?)
- do not allow oil on contact surfaces of pan or tranmission case
- when installing apply the FIPG (Toyota part # 08826-00090 or Three Bond 1281) 2-3 mm wide and connect parts within 10 minutes or start over
- even when removed for service the oil strainer is reused but three new gaskets are installed

sounds like there could be benefits to a drain that you don't get with a machine flush.
- gravity drain "backflushes" the strainer
- wear particles at the bottom of the pan are more likely removed

Maybe a drain and fill with a cheap spec fluid would be worthwhile to some even before a "machine exchange".

Watch the fluid exchange in person. Many shops use a machine that removes the old fluid, filters it and then returns it to your transmission. They then add an additive to replenish additives "used up" in the old fluid.

Also look at how the machine is hooked up to the transmission. This decription of how a "top of the line" Snap-on unit operates doesn't sound too good to me. 10 minutes for a $120 service makes good sense to the shop I'm sure!

In a "static" engine off mode, the unit first removes old fluid in the transmission pan through the dipstick, eliminating the messy and timely removal of drain pans. Following fluid removal, the unit then fills the transmission with an equal amount of new fluid through the dipstick. Visible flow meters allow the user to continually monitor fluid movement to and from the transmission. The Snap-on TransKare then prompts the technician to start the engine, during which the unit replaces circulating transmission fluid on a quart-by-quart basis.

The Snap-on TransKare's unique clean and simple dipstick fill and extraction method completes most automatic transmission fluid exchanges within 10 minutes. The automated process adds efficiency and profitability to shops performing transmission fluid services.


It doesn't collect fluid flowing from the cooler output and fill into the pan. It sounds like it removes a quart from the pan, adds a quart by the same tube and repeats until the desired # of quarts have been "exchanged". This is no better than drain and fill a couple of times with a run in between like cary was talking about only without the possible benefit of the drain action. In fact you could do the same with a $9 drill operated lube pump and a section of hose.

I like this method form the 80's FAQ as eventually modified over the course of the thread. Drain and fill to start, Don't run it dry (use an assistant to add fluid as the old pumps out and stop engine as necesary to keep pan filled) and shift through the gears.

80 FAQ thread on ATF exchange using the cooler lines.
 
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Did the change yesterday, read this post today...........

There is not much to take photos of but I took a few anyway, I will do a write up for those with 5 speed tranny
 
They charged me for qty 12 of 00279-00T4-01 "T-IV ATF" @ $4.79/qt and qty 1
of 01031 "MOC ATF COND" ($9.95). Labor was $81.27.

The only hit on google for the MOC ATF COND was a Honda pilot website where a guy had it added to his Honda Pilot tranny for $19.96.

Sounds like you got a bargain! :rolleyes: I doubt their is any fluid that belongs in both a Toyota T-IV and a Honda ZF-1 tranny. :confused:

The company that makes it is MOC products and there coporate website is a name only.
MOC Products Company Inc.
12306 Montague St
Pacoima, CA , 91331-2213
Phone: 818-896-2258
FAX: 818-896-3760
Website: www.mocproducts.com
Products Description:
Manufactures polishes & sanitation agents; wholesales chemicals & allied products
Primary SIC: Specialty Cleaning Polishing, Primary NAICS: Polish and Other Sanitation Good Manufacturing
Description: Specialty Cleaning Polishing​

They have been fined $500,000 dollars for making illegal auto products by the State of California though.

California company pays $500,000 to settle clean air violations

I think I would go ask for my $9.95 back. :mad:
 
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Personally I would be talking to Toyota about the use of the product in your transmission, and if anything demand a complete flush of your transmission with T-IV fluid "unless there is a TSB from Toyota approving the use of this additive."
Your transmission is a delicate and expensive piece of machinery. Although the additive may sound good, it may not be, and may actually be detrimental to the long term healthof it.

Sounds like they had some cleaning fluid left over and put it in a bottle marked tranny additive.
 
From MOC website

#0103 AUTOMATIC-TRANSMISSION-FLUID CONDITIONER

SCIENTIFICALLY FORMULATED TO FORTIFY ATF AGAINST OXIDATION & THERMAL BREAKDOWN, THIS CONDITIONER HELPS KEEP SEALS AND O-RINGS SOFT & PLIABLE, WHILE MAINTAINING THE PROPER VISCOSITY FOR SMOOTH SHIFTING.

I thought T-IV did this all by itself??
 
Just did an ATF exchange and “pan drop” at 94 k km, on my 4 speed tranny.
Time consumed: 5 hrs! Filling through that skinny dipstick pipe takes a lot of the time.

Tools required:
10 mm socket with extender, 1/4" ONLY. 2 extenders even better as the 3 rear bolts are difficult to get to between the x-member and the oil pan. Flex-extender could be nice.
12 mm socket - for the dip stick pipe.
Oil collection eqpmnt and some absorbent material.
24 mm for the drain plug.

The process:
After removing the 20 small bolts, I had to help the pan come loose with a screwdriver (careful not to damage the flanges). When lowering the pan, there will be a good deal of additional fluid coming out, so keep the drain plug open and over an oil collector until it stops running.
After getting the pan out of the way, pulling the dipstick pipe apart at the joint, I took off the strainer (big mess, oil dripping out everywhere), cleaned up the pan and strainer, put the strainer back on, removed the sealant (FIPG, took ages), applied new silicone (used the Toyota original, cost a fortune), and put it all together.
Filled it up with Pennzoil D III mineral (read something good about it on a Soarer forum), drained and refilled again the next day. (Did a drain and fill a couple of weeks ago as well)

You do get another 1/2 to 3/4 litre (quart) out by dropping the pan, some which is above the raised edge of the drain plug and some stuck in the strainer and ducts.

What I found was a thin, thin layer of sludge in the pan and on the strainer assembly, like a dark gray coating, and a layer of less than a mm on the 4 magnets.
The shifting seems to be smoother now. Will evaluate over the next few days/weeks.

No pix this time.
 
The only hit on google for the MOC ATF COND was a Honda pilot website where a guy had it added to his Honda Pilot tranny for $19.96.

Sounds like you got a bargain! :rolleyes: I doubt their is any fluid that belongs in both a Toyota T-IV and a Honda ZF-1 tranny. :confused:

The company that makes it is MOC products and there coporate website is a name only.
MOC Products Company Inc.
12306 Montague St
Pacoima, CA , 91331-2213
Phone: 818-896-2258
FAX: 818-896-3760
Website: www.mocproducts.com
Products Description:
Manufactures polishes & sanitation agents; wholesales chemicals & allied products
Primary SIC: Specialty Cleaning Polishing, Primary NAICS: Polish and Other Sanitation Good Manufacturing
Description: Specialty Cleaning Polishing​

They have been fined $500,000 dollars for making illegal auto products by the State of California though.

California company pays $500,000 to settle clean air violations

I think I would go ask for my $9.95 back. :mad:

Looks like I might have pay the lexus dealer to do it, as I don't have time to take off between now and my So. CA trip in 2 weeks. The Toyota dealer is clear across town in the wrong direction from work; I'd definitely need a loaner to get to work w/o wasting time...courtesy shuttle doesn't cut it.
 
For a 2000, anything with a Dexron II or III rating will work, right?

I went to buy the ATF and found a 12qrt case of Mobil1 AFT for $35, but was not sure if it met the specification.
 
For a 2000, anything with a Dexron II or III rating will work, right?

I went to buy the ATF and found a 12qrt case of Mobil1 AFT for $35, but was not sure if it met the specification.

Keep in mind that buying a non-toyota ATF might be equivalent to adding an additive. For example, the Valvoline dextron III ATF for older trannies has stuff in there to recondition seals and remove varnish where the toyota ATF doesn't.
 
I did not know that there was such a thing as Toyota ATF. I thought the factory recommendation was for Dexron II/III compatible ATF fluid. What is the Toyota ATF called? Hehe.... Toyota ATF?

I have read here many times of people using Amsoil, Mobil1, Redline for AFTs in their 100. Am I right?
 

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