Transmission fluid change... yay or nay? (1 Viewer)

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HGB

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2013 LX570 with 155K. Are these really sealed transmissions with “lifetime” fluid?

It’s hard for me to believe that a fluid can really be lifetime rated so I’d like to change mine. The only issue is my last 13 LX had a trans fluid change done at a ‘Kwik Lube’ and shortly thereafter the torque converter went out and necessitated a transmission replacement.

Obviously; I’m proceeding with caution on my new 200.

Asked my dealer, they said they won’t do it and it’s pointless.
 
I would service it, but that's me. The transmissions are pretty durable when properly cared for. But the vehicles are heavy and you are in a high temp area, apparently, and the fluid does have a finite life.

I would not take it to someplace advertising a "transmission flush". A drain and fill per the great writeup on this board would be how I would do it. (it is how I did mine with 90k a couple of months ago). If you are constrained to taking it to a shop, I would find an independent that you trust and can understand simple english when you explain what you want done. They also need to have the proper OBDII reader to monitor trans temps (not hard to do, but if one doesn't really care about the end result, who knows what the end result would be).
 
2013 LX570 with 155K. Are these really sealed transmissions with “lifetime” fluid?

It’s hard for me to believe that a fluid can really be lifetime rated so I’d like to change mine. The only issue is my last 13 LX had a trans fluid change done at a ‘Kwik Lube’ and shortly thereafter the torque converter went out and necessitated a transmission replacement.

Obviously; I’m proceeding with caution on my new 200.

Asked my dealer, they said they won’t do it and it’s pointless.
The 13 maintenance manual advises replacement of the fluid at 60k and 120k for:
Driving while towing, using a car-top carrier, or heavy vehicle loading:
 
My 2015 manual (non-US) specifies a 40,000km change interval for tran fluid
 
If you use a mechanic for anything more than a drain & fill, which only gets roughly a third of the fluid, make sure you specify a “fluid exchange” not a “flush”. Some shops call an exchange a flush.

The difference is using a system to put new fluid in as old fluid is pumped out is fine, but what you want to avoid are the systems that forcibly push fluid and possibly chemicals through your transmission to “clean” things. There is some nuance in understanding the difference.. but as long as all they do is replace old fluid with new you should be good to go.
 
2013 at 125K. Fluid was pretty dark. 30-50K is wise medicine. Really good flush procedure posted in pinned link at top.

Blackstone Trans.jpg
 
Never trust WS ATF is lifetime. I usually flush the trans at least once. Then, every 30k, drain and refill.
I run trans fluid longer. At 60k I open the cooler line and flush it. Your approach is valid and good IMHO. It’s my choice to not mess with the trans so early. I agree your protocol is good but different than mine. I do my Power sSteering the same way. It’s dirt cheap and can’t hurt. Every oil change I suck out the reservoir and refill.
 
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I run trans fluid longer. At 60k I open the cooler line and flush it. Your approach is valid and good IMHO. It’s my choice to not mess with the trans so early. I agree your protocol is good but different than mine. I do my Power sSteering the same way. It’s dirt cheap and can’t hurt. Every oil change I suck out the reservoir and refill.
I hope I clarify my statement. I got my LC200 used. Even with clean service record, I don't trust the fluid maintenance record. I will flushed out the fluid and start my maintenance from there. For new LC200, I think drain and refill every 30-50k is good maintenance hygene. But 60k flush is good too. Flush take ~ 12 quarts of WS where drain/refill take about 4-5 quarts of WS.
 
If you can quantify the exact amount drained and have confidence that it was at the correct level previously then a pan dump would be faster. But much of the work is the procedure to validate the level so a full exchange isn't much more effort, maybe 30 minutes extra. I wouldn't drop the pan every 30k, maybe every 90k to replace the screen and clean the magnets.
 
IMO, it's easy to overthink this. Which is what we like to do here on the forums.

When maintenance intervals are defined by OEMs, data is used to asses and balance need of fluid changes. Beyond "the fluid looks dark". It is also weighed against the likelihood of service introduced issues or failures due to procedure, foreign object damage, etc. Not unlike the kwik lube experience posted by the OP. Dealers potentially take the don't do it posture because they've been bitten enough too.

Outside of doing itself yourself with the excellent instructions posted here, and if you feel comfortable that you are mechanically competent to not get yourself into more trouble...

I'd only have the dealer do it with their guarantees. Or a well known experienced independent shop. Let them choose the method by which they are doing it, even if that's a drain and fill, because that's the procedure they are familiar with. Drain and fill of partial fluid might be safer and you are still that much better off than all old fluid.
 
I did mine at 60K, I think you should do it just to be safe...
 
When maintenance intervals are defined by OEMs, data is used to asses and balance need of fluid changes. Beyond "the fluid looks dark".

Lots of OEMs make those decisions based on a vehicle only being expected to reliably go 100k. Case in point would be the abundance of “sealed for life” transmissions on the market.

I know that’s not what we are dealing with on the 200 but it is an example of factors that go into those recommendations other than the best health of the part.
 
The best information we could work with is getting users to post up Blackstone reports so that we have definitive data. Post up, fellas!
 
117K mi on my 15 LC and I have an appointment with my mechanic to get the transmission fluid done tmrw. They recommended drain and fill, although they have the equipment to do a fluid exchange or flush (with cleaner). And frankly, I'm nervous. One reason is that there appears to be no transmission dipstick to check the levels (based on the 15 owners manual). Is that correct? This mechanic (toyota and lexus only) has been straight with me on previous toyotas and lexus so I ought to trust them. I'm also nervous because the fluid has not been changed before. Previous owner had everything done at Permian Toyota and all the fluid work has been done except for transmission, which was never done.

Just makes me nervous that I cant verify that they get the levels right at the right temperature, etc, etc. Any words of advice? A lot of miles coming up soon and i dont want to find out in the middle of nowhere that they blew it.
 
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Just makes me nervous that I cant verify that they get the levels right at the right temperature, etc, etc. Any words of advice? A lot of miles coming up soon and i dont want to find out in the middle of nowhere that they blew it.

The level check is more complicated than a dipstick but nothing a competent mechanic hasn't dealt with before. Basically you overfill the transmission a small amount and let it warm up to the point that with the fluid expanded (from temperature) the excess drains out of a specific hole in the transmission pan that has a tube pointed upward to the correct level. At the correct temp, any extra fluid drains off. If none drained up until the correct temp, keep adding until it does drain. Then close it all up.

The specifics come in checking the fluid temp. Either with an OBD reader, Techstream, or the OBD pin and MFI/shifter sequence method. I'm sure your mechanic will have that part sorted.

Maybe just make sure he understands the procedure before leaving the vehicle. I'm pretty sure toyotas have been done this way for quite some time.
 
The level check is more complicated than a dipstick but nothing a competent mechanic hasn't dealt with before. Basically you overfill the transmission a small amount and let it warm up to the point that with the fluid expanded (from temperature) the excess drains out of a specific hole in the transmission pan that has a tube pointed upward to the correct level. At the correct temp, any extra fluid drains off. If none drained up until the correct temp, keep adding until it does drain. Then close it all up.

The specifics come in checking the fluid temp. Either with an OBD reader, Techstream, or the OBD pin and MFI/shifter sequence method. I'm sure your mechanic will have that part sorted.

Maybe just make sure he understands the procedure before leaving the vehicle. I'm pretty sure toyotas have been done this way for quite some time.

Is the 5.7 tundra the same as our LX/LC 200 procédure as far as changing transmission fluid goes?
 
I’m changing the fluid and filter on mine within a week. It’s one of the best ways to preserve the life of the transmission.
 
Is the 5.7 tundra the same as our LX/LC 200 procédure as far as changing transmission fluid goes?

I haven’t messed with a tundra yet but have done the work on an 08 4Runner. It was similar.

If there’s no dipstick chances are it is the same. I bet tons of people have done this to their tundras and documented it online. I’d find a factory service manual to confirm.
 

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