transfer case

Joined
Apr 24, 2003
Messages
2,210
Visit site
the HJ transfer case won't shift into 4wd.  it worked one trip in the snow, (icy snow covered pavement) and then next time i went to use it (a week later) the lever will not move down to h4.  the only thing i can think of might be that i had the free wheeling hubs locked in (transfer in h2) for a fair distance on pavement on the trip home.

i've been told by a friend it may be linkages,  if that's the case, what should i look for in the way of damage, difference.  or i heard a similar problem was attributed to a moved idler shaft.  do i need to strip down the transfer case to see if it is the idler shaft?

p.s. this forum rocks, i really want to thank all you guys that help out, and when i get through this vehicle fest i've got planned, hopefully i'll b able to help a few people, and give back to the forum.

p.p.s. the community here is awesome, and seems to be alot like country regions of australia, where everyone lends a hand in times of need.

i'm going home tomorrow to start work on getting the troopy back on the road woo hoo

i've been thinking about it for weeks
 

woody

Staff member
Admin
Joined
Jan 15, 2002
Messages
10,342
Location
Toquerville UT
Website
www.TieRodMedia.com
the front nose cone of the transfer case has a rod on the outside...this slides in-out and is what engages the collar inside the front output to put it in 4wd. This "commonly" corrodes and needs a bit of cleanup with emory cloth. You can remove the rubber boot to inspect...shouldn't have to remove/disassemble the t-case at all, might have to loosen the linkage a tad tho...
 
Joined
Apr 24, 2003
Messages
2,210
Visit site
woody, can you be my daddy??? now seriously, if i remember half the stuff you tell me i'll be a cruiser genius.

seriously, does it bind up like that in a matter of a week or 2?
 

woody

Staff member
Admin
Joined
Jan 15, 2002
Messages
10,342
Location
Toquerville UT
Website
www.TieRodMedia.com
aluminum nose cone, steel rod, galvanic corrosion with dissimilar metals, added in to a winter ride with (at least in this state) salt on the roadways = 30 seconds to rusty.

Lots of other possibilities, but that's a first guess. Add a little 90-wt oil to the shaft under the boot to keep it lubed...it does slide on a o-ring seal too, perhaps that's dried...


BTW: I had the "kid cure surgery" for a reason last fall...hehehe
 
Joined
Apr 24, 2003
Messages
2,210
Visit site
it's alright, i wouldn't be much of a hastle, just use your tools and leave them lying round, and come looking for you when things go bang tinkle, what was that expensive noise.

come to think of it, apart from the tools, it's like that now.

so i've got somewhere to look for the transfer as well.  just in time for snow season again.

so this rod is attached to linkages that link to the lever in the cab. come to think of it, it does feel rather rusted together, doesn't move an inch.

one last question, do you think that a stock transmission, transfer case needs that big ass bash plate? i only ask because obviously it's coming off soon, and the fj's previous owner ran it without one. the Hj's bashplate is only kind of held on by one bolt.
 

woody

Staff member
Admin
Joined
Jan 15, 2002
Messages
10,342
Location
Toquerville UT
Website
www.TieRodMedia.com
I run a bigger/thicker than stock bash/skid plate...IMO, it's required insurance.

The Cruiser t-case is aluminum....I'm a firm believer (with no proof) that when these t-cases shatter it's in large part due to a hard shock, either then or previously, that weakens them. Running a heavy skid protects everything.

I use mine, as you might be able to tell....all 4 wheels off the ground, entire truck sitting on the skid ONLY...

DSCF0114.JPG
 
G

Guest

Guest
p.s. this forum rocks, i really want to thank all you guys that help out, and when i get through this vehicle fest i've got planned, hopefully i'll b able to help a few people, and give back to the forum.

p.p.s. the community here is awesome, and seems to be alot like country regions of australia, where everyone lends a hand in times of need.
Woo Hoo. You have felt my Influences. :D
 
Joined
Apr 24, 2003
Messages
2,210
Visit site
it appears that your suggestion was right woody, it looks rather "bonded" together. how do i get the thing out?? where do i loosen off the linkages? it's too dark now to work on. appart from destroying a few wheel cylinders, and wasting a few bottles of brake fluid, todays been productive.

the wheel cylinders gave out just after all the parts shops were closing too.
 
Joined
Dec 8, 2002
Messages
205
Location
Cape Town, South Africa
Website
community.webshots.com
There is 4 bolts holding the shift mechanism in place, first undo the linkages, (clean & grease them too), then undo the 4 bolts. There is one internal bolt (12mm) that holds the selector 'fork' on the inside, undo that and the shaft slides out. &nbsp:Did mine the other day, took about an hour.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Top Bottom