Transfer Case Removal (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jun 6, 2007
Threads
29
Messages
341
Location
Rancho Cucamonga, CA
Hey Guys been searching but haven't found what I am looking for.

While wheeling last weekend I developed a pretty serious leak between my AA Rock Box and my SM465.

While attacking the leak I am also replacing the rear output shaft seal (Mudrack), replacing ebrake components and replacing the bent ebrake backing plate.

I have never done this, but that hasn't stopped me before. I am trying to do this without removing the interior components inside the cab. It's raining and I don't have space to remove the seat, gas tank etc.

1. How much does the transfer case weigh? I need to know if I can muscle it out.

2. I have removed the two bolts inside the case, shifter linkage and the cross member. What else holds the t-case in place?

3. Once all bolts are removed does it just slide back or is there a trick to it?

Picture one:
IMG_4745.jpg

Picture two:
I think there may be bolts where I have highlighted. How many?
IMG_4744.jpg

Three:
IMG_4742.jpg

Four:
IMG_4743.jpg
 
there are 3 bolts outside the case and 2 inside looks like you have them out. you will need to remove the bearing nut and slide or pry it back .shipping weight on a t case is 75lbs good luck
 
i see em in the photo 2 on top and 1 on the right side take a 17mm socket.when you pull the last one be careful because the case will swing down and whack you in the head. but i see you have ajack under it good luck
 
i see em in the photo 2 on top and 1 on the right side take a 17mm socket.when you pull the last one be careful because the case will swing down and whack you in the head. but i see you have ajack under it good luck

Thanks again. Are the two on top where I have highlighted? (out of view)

Thanks again!
 
Thanks again. Are the two on top where I have highlighted? (out of view)

Thanks again!

No. The bolts thread into the rock box and run parallel to the output shaft. The only obvious bolt that you haven't removed yet that you need to is the one on the output shaft from the rock box.
 
No. The bolts thread into the rock box and run parallel to the output shaft. The only obvious bolt that you haven't removed yet that you need to is the one on the output shaft from the rock box.

Thanks Pin Head. I just talked with Al at Man-A-Free (Great Guy!) and had him look at the picture. He said exactly the same thing. Turns out that plate on the top is an aftermarket reiforcement plate. I hope I don't find a crack under it when i pull it off.

Thanks!

:beer:
 
to the right and left of the top stud sticking out the back looks like those bolts are still in there .1 more about 2 studs down the right side .should be 7 or so inches long and go through the case .depending on the style 1 should go through the t case saver also . good luck
 
to the right and left of the top stud sticking out the back looks like those bolts are still in there .1 more about 2 studs down the right side .should be 7 or so inches long and go through the case .depending on the style 1 should go through the t case saver also . good luck

You are right- should have paid better attention. I made a couple of pictures to help other first-timers. Maybe they will help someone down the road.

1.
Bolts2.jpg

2.

Bolts1.jpg
 
looks like your on the road to success again good luck
 
Some more picts - Not much progress, been workin too much. Not setup like I thought it would be. I expected a long shaft to be sticking out of the rock box into the T case.

Interesting support on top transfer case.

1.
IMG_4749.jpg

2.
IMG_4750.jpg

3. I assume that the bolt (inside center) is the only thing left to remoce. A flash under the 40 sure makes things a lot easier to see!
IMG_4752.jpg
 
Update:
First of all, thanks to everyone here @ mud that helped me get this done. I really appreciate it.

Took her out for a short spin and everything seems to be working great!

More pictures on my web site. (See signature line.)

Remove/Reinstall List

  • Heater
  • Tranny Cover
  • Front Seats
  • Center Console
  • Transfer Case Cross member
  • Drive Shafts
  • Transfer Case
  • Rock Box
  • Replaced E Brake Backing plate and and shoes
  • Replace Rear Output Seal with Mudrack Dual Seal
  • Resealed and or replaced gaskets on everything including SM465
  • Loctite on all appropirate nuts and bolts


IMG_4760.JPG


IMG_4764.jpg
 
Question: Whats that airplane propeller looking thing that you pulled out and repainted blue? My 71 fj-40 doesn't have that. Some sort of brace? After market?
 
That is a T-Case Cross member. Most V8 conversions have them They keep everything lined up. Good piece of gear!!!
 

Hey guys first time poster. :flipoff2:

I am trying to get the nut off the output shaft (#6 above). How do you keep the gears from turning if you have already removed the gear shift and it is apparently in neutral? In the Haynes manual, it says to use a wood block on the input shaft. The problem is that the motor and trans are still attached.

My ultimate goal is to remove the motor and trans without having to move the transfer case. I am hoping they will just slide out. Is that feasible?

Another issue with the output shaft nut is that it seems to have been dimpled into ring that it incases. I tried to pry it out and the dimple just broke. Still seems to have a little burr that may cause an issue.

I appreciate everyone's time and knowledge on this site and look forward to hearing your ideas.

Chad
 
Am I crazy to think that I can slide the motor/trans out with the transfer case still attached to the driveline?
 
Am I crazy to think that I can slide the motor/trans out with the transfer case still attached to the driveline?

Yes you're crazy. Not going to happen.

Either pull the entire drivetrain out including the transfer case, or drop the transfer case first; then pull the engine/transmission. Pulling the entire drivetrain as one unit is easier.
 

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