Transfer Case Rebuild & Modification (High & Low Range Gears and Part-Time 4wd Kit) (16 Viewers)

[CharlieS]

Timmy and Georg, thank you so much for doing the time consuming work to share this with us. These videos contain so much valuable (hard earned) knowledge, that most of us would never have access to. Thank you!

Having torn a couple of these apart and reassembled them using the FSM, I have a decent sense of the basics, but watching these videos provides so much in depth information, best practice, and tricks of the trade. It is hands down the best, most thorough, technical content I've seen.

I wanted to say thank you again. I tore down my spare transfer case yesterday in the process of installing my Sumo gears. This is my third transfer case teardown, so not a complete newby, but still not experienced. With the tips in this video series, it made the job so much easier. I managed to disassemble the whole assembly without any breakage. I used a ton of the tips from the teardown video. I'll be going back to review the others as I dive into pressing off the gear stacks. Thank you so much for doing this Timmy (@Timmy65) and Georg (@orangefj45). I am very appreciative.

 

[CharlieS]

I asked Georg to take a measurement of the Proto puller arms for me. When I get his response, I'll comment back here.

10" overall, 7-1/4" max depth on my longer arms.

 

[EricG]

Fantastic stuff guys, thanks so much!

I'm stuck on getting my front shaft out of the housing though. Been beating on it hard for awhile wit dead low and brass hammers but no apparent progress. And, of course, I don't have that nice jig and huge press.

Any suggestions?

 

[orangefj45]

Fantastic stuff guys, thanks so much!

I'm stuck on getting my front shaft out of the housing though. Been beating on it hard for awhile wit dead low and brass hammers but no apparent progress. And, of course, I don't have that nice jig and huge press.

Any suggestions?

You can use a small propane torch to warm up the bearing some. But if the output shaft gets hot it won’t help.

 

[EricG]

You can use a small propane torch to warm up the bearing some. But if the output shaft gets hot it won’t help.

Thanks - I managed to get it off by pulling the other piece off with a gear puller first.

I guess with a 50 ton press you can push it through all in one go! But us mere mortals with a rubber hammer might need two steps

 

[Adsing]

Hi all - looking for some input and assistance. Got the case out, and everything was going smooth during tear down until the shift lever pin. It simply will not free. I have had it soaking in blaster and have been drifting it routinely.

Also, in the process of drifting this pin (with the nut on to avoid glancing the drift off into something else) the nut galled the threads. So it looks like if I can get it off, I’ll need to track down a new one. In the process of looking for the part number, but, any assistance would be helpful.

 

[Adsing]

Hi all - looking for some input and assistance. Got the case out, and everything was going smooth during tear down until the shift lever pin. It simply will not free. I have had it soaking in blaster and have been drifting it routinely.

Also, in the process of drifting this pin (with the nut on to avoid glancing the drift off into something else) the nut galled the threads. So it looks like if I can get it off, I’ll need to track down a new one. In the process of looking for the part number, but, any assistance would be helpful.

View attachment 3977822

 

[MVZ]

33281-16020

В процессе поиска номера детали любая помощь будет полезна.

33281-16020

 

[bicycleagent003]

Hi all - looking for some input and assistance. Got the case out, and everything was going smooth during tear down until the shift lever pin. It simply will not free. I have had it soaking in blaster and have been drifting it routinely.

Also, in the process of drifting this pin (with the nut on to avoid glancing the drift off into something else) the nut galled the threads. So it looks like if I can get it off, I’ll need to track down a new one. In the process of looking for the part number, but, any assistance would be helpful.

View attachment 3977822

I never could get that bolt to release, so I just left it in place. I wacked on it A Lot, and eventually decided that replacing the seal under it was not critical because it sits at the top of the TC, so no oil is going to leak, anyway. It was kind of awkward to have that rod attached during the R&R of the case, but I made it work. If you can clean up those threads, you might want to do the same thing. Just run a die over the threads or a hardened nut, slowly and with some oil. That is what I would do. Maybe it's a little hillbilly? Good luck.

 

[Adsing]

Thanks all - ended up getting it off. Beat the hell out of it though. A lot of blaster was soaking on it over night.

 

[bicycleagent003]

Thanks all - ended up getting it off. Beat the hell out of it though. A lot of blaster was soaking on it over night.

Just a heads up, the videos above with Georg from Valley Hybrids are amazing, though he does go through some unnecessary steps if you're just regearing. I was following his videos and was removing a bearing from the end of the idler assembly (I believe) when I boogered the bearing. I ended up having to replace it, which cost $100 and added time to the job. OTRAMM's videos on YouTube cover the same job, though he's just doing a regear, not the full rebuild that Georg did. So, just consider how far you want to go with the job and know that there are a few forks in the road along the way. Good luck/Good job.

 

[Adsing]

Just a heads up, the videos above with Georg from Valley Hybrids are amazing, though he does go through some unnecessary steps if you're just regearing. I was following his videos and was removing a bearing from the end of the idler assembly (I believe) when I boogered the bearing. I ended up having to replace it, which cost $100 and added time to the job. OTRAMM's videos on YouTube cover the same job, though he's just doing a regear, not the full rebuild that Georg did. So, just consider how far you want to go with the job and know that there are a few forks in the road along the way. Good luck/Good job.

Thanks for that. Yes for sure. Had a good call with Georg about that. I’m only doing an underdrive and replacing seals. What drove this whole adventure was my front input seal going bad and learning I have to basically deconstruct the t-case to get to it.

 

[DivByZero]

Hi all - looking for some input and assistance. Got the case out, and everything was going smooth during tear down until the shift lever pin. It simply will not free. I have had it soaking in blaster and have been drifting it routinely.

Also, in the process of drifting this pin (with the nut on to avoid glancing the drift off into something else) the nut galled the threads. So it looks like if I can get it off, I’ll need to track down a new one. In the process of looking for the part number, but, any assistance would be helpful.

View attachment 3977822

So I've done this on a couple of boxes now. Mine was stuck on good too. What I ended up doing to get mine to pop IIRC was to rest the TC on the bench, with the entire weight of the TC resting on a brass drift, which was resting on that bolt, so the entire thing was kind of "propped up" by the drift. I then hammered on the arm/various places of the housing with a brass hammer, so that wherever I hit, force was transferring onto that bolt. By moving around a bit where I was hitting, it was able to work on the bolt at different angles, and that made it pop for me, in the two boxes I've done so far.

 

[Adsing]

So I've done this on a couple of boxes now. Mine was stuck on good too. What I ended up doing to get mine to pop IIRC was to rest the TC on the bench, with the entire weight of the TC resting on a brass drift, which was resting on that bolt, so the entire thing was kind of "propped up" by the drift. I then hammered on the arm/various places of the housing with a brass hammer, so that wherever I hit, force was transferring onto that bolt. By moving around a bit where I was hitting, it was able to work on the bolt at different angles, and that made it pop for me, in the two boxes I've done so far.

Wow that’s elaborate. Whatever it takes to get it done! I gladly was able to get it off this morning. Beat the hell out of it.