I wanted to say thank you again. I tore down my spare transfer case yesterday in the process of installing my Sumo gears. This is my third transfer case teardown, so not a complete newby, but still not experienced. With the tips in this video series, it made the job so much easier. I managed to disassemble the whole assembly without any breakage. I used a ton of the tips from the teardown video. I'll be going back to review the others as I dive into pressing off the gear stacks. Thank you so much for doing this Timmy (@Timmy65) and Georg (@orangefj45). I am very appreciative.
Transfer Case Rebuild & Modification (High & Low Range Gears and Part-Time 4wd Kit)
- Thread starter Timmy65
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Fantastic stuff guys, thanks so much!
I'm stuck on getting my front shaft out of the housing though. Been beating on it hard for awhile wit dead low and brass hammers but no apparent progress. And, of course, I don't have that nice jig and huge press.
Any suggestions?
I'm stuck on getting my front shaft out of the housing though. Been beating on it hard for awhile wit dead low and brass hammers but no apparent progress. And, of course, I don't have that nice jig and huge press.
Any suggestions?
You can use a small propane torch to warm up the bearing some. But if the output shaft gets hot it won’t help.
Thanks - I managed to get it off by pulling the other piece off with a gear puller first.
I guess with a 50 ton press you can push it through all in one go! But us mere mortals with a rubber hammer might need two steps
Hi all - looking for some input and assistance. Got the case out, and everything was going smooth during tear down until the shift lever pin. It simply will not free. I have had it soaking in blaster and have been drifting it routinely.
Also, in the process of drifting this pin (with the nut on to avoid glancing the drift off into something else) the nut galled the threads. So it looks like if I can get it off, I’ll need to track down a new one. In the process of looking for the part number, but, any assistance would be helpful.
Also, in the process of drifting this pin (with the nut on to avoid glancing the drift off into something else) the nut galled the threads. So it looks like if I can get it off, I’ll need to track down a new one. In the process of looking for the part number, but, any assistance would be helpful.
33281-16020
33281-16020
I never could get that bolt to release, so I just left it in place. I wacked on it A Lot, and eventually decided that replacing the seal under it was not critical because it sits at the top of the TC, so no oil is going to leak, anyway. It was kind of awkward to have that rod attached during the R&R of the case, but I made it work. If you can clean up those threads, you might want to do the same thing. Just run a die over the threads or a hardened nut, slowly and with some oil. That is what I would do. Maybe it's a little hillbilly? Good luck.
Thanks all - ended up getting it off. Beat the hell out of it though. A lot of blaster was soaking on it over night.
Just a heads up, the videos above with Georg from Valley Hybrids are amazing, though he does go through some unnecessary steps if you're just regearing. I was following his videos and was removing a bearing from the end of the idler assembly (I believe) when I boogered the bearing. I ended up having to replace it, which cost $100 and added time to the job. OTRAMM's videos on YouTube cover the same job, though he's just doing a regear, not the full rebuild that Georg did. So, just consider how far you want to go with the job and know that there are a few forks in the road along the way. Good luck/Good job.
Thanks for that. Yes for sure. Had a good call with Georg about that. I’m only doing an underdrive and replacing seals. What drove this whole adventure was my front input seal going bad and learning I have to basically deconstruct the t-case to get to it.
So I've done this on a couple of boxes now. Mine was stuck on good too. What I ended up doing to get mine to pop IIRC was to rest the TC on the bench, with the entire weight of the TC resting on a brass drift, which was resting on that bolt, so the entire thing was kind of "propped up" by the drift. I then hammered on the arm/various places of the housing with a brass hammer, so that wherever I hit, force was transferring onto that bolt. By moving around a bit where I was hitting, it was able to work on the bolt at different angles, and that made it pop for me, in the two boxes I've done so far.
Wow that’s elaborate. Whatever it takes to get it done! I gladly was able to get it off this morning. Beat the hell out of it.
Any of y’all have a tcase that does not have the threads on the aluminum plate that channels the oil flow?
Was curious how y’all tackled removal since I can’t walk it up ever so gently.
I did spray some penetrating oil around so hopefully that loosens things up….but I think that wishful thinking lol
Was curious how y’all tackled removal since I can’t walk it up ever so gently.
I did spray some penetrating oil around so hopefully that loosens things up….but I think that wishful thinking lol
There's very little tension holding that in, just gravity plus a smidge. If you can get two 90 degree tools like little picks in two different spots (close to 180 degrees apart, if possible), you'll be able to lift it right out. It just has to come out straight, and it will come out easily. Put one pick in the big hole at the 2 o'clock position in your photo, and then sneak a small pick in one of the bolt holes, preferably at the opposite side.
This set came in handy for stuff like that during my T-case job.
This set came in handy for stuff like that during my T-case job.
Amazon.com: Pittsburgh 4 Piece Mini Pick and Hook Set by Pittsburgh : Automotive
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Thanks for the follow up. I was successful in getting it out. Used long needle nose, and a vise grip needle nose with tape wrapped on the teeth and it did the trick. Mine was really suctioned on.
Your method was the route I was going to go if I couldn’t get the pliers to work. I was trying to avoid it though as I was worried I might unnecessarily gouge the aluminum with a pick knowing my luck lol
Posting the images of how and what I used to wiggle mine out.
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
Think I will doing this soon on a customer's 80 it's making noise checked the fluid was low and had transmission fluid in it instead of gear lube. Hopefully just needs new bearings
I’m new to the 80 Series and have been reading a lot about the transfer case locker and the part-time conversion, but I can’t seem to find clear answers to what might be dumb questions — maybe someone can shed some light.
Is there an actual locker in the transfer case? Why do people spool or weld it when doing a part-time conversion? Wouldn’t installing manual hubs and engaging the transfer case center differential lock accomplish the same thing?
I’m currently doing an LS swap, and right now I don’t have the front driveshaft installed. When I need to move the truck, I just engage the locker switch. I’m not sure if that could cause any damage that I’m unaware of.
Lastly, when removing the viscous coupler (VC), do you have to replace it with something, or can it simply be left out?
Is there an actual locker in the transfer case? Why do people spool or weld it when doing a part-time conversion? Wouldn’t installing manual hubs and engaging the transfer case center differential lock accomplish the same thing?
I’m currently doing an LS swap, and right now I don’t have the front driveshaft installed. When I need to move the truck, I just engage the locker switch. I’m not sure if that could cause any damage that I’m unaware of.
Lastly, when removing the viscous coupler (VC), do you have to replace it with something, or can it simply be left out?