Trans gear display blank?

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Oct 26, 2010
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Started up my 2010 lx570 today and saw 4 lo light flashing and a blank screen where the trans position should display. Truck drove fine and shifted ok. Wasn't actually in 4 lo. I got the 4lo light to stop flashing by restarting the truck a couple times but still no trans position display??
Also noticed memory seat not working. It will let you set it and gives a beep but when pressing the 1 2 or 3 no beep and won't move the seat. Have to move it manually. All this started thus morning. I did an oil change yesterday and parked it in my driveway. Can't see how that might be related

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I haven’t seen this before.. you should hook up a code reader or even better, find someone with techstream.
 
I haven’t seen this before.. you should hook up a code reader or even better, find someone with techstream.
I work at a Toyota dealer but I am out for a shoulder operation recovery. I have a scangauge 3 but shows no codes
 
I also just noticed my memory seat isn't working. I can set it and it makes the confirmation beep but won't go to saved position. When I press 1 2 or 3 it doesn't beep. Only when setting does it beep. Worked fine yesterday. Not sure if related but posting anyway. I shut the truck off and when I came out of the store and got in the truck the memory seat recalled the position and beeped but as soon as I started the engine the memory seat isn't working. I know it won't work if you aren't in park and with park not being displayed might be why the memory seat isn't working with engine running.
 
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Ok just threw a code. Probably 2 trip logic which may be why I didn't get code right away. Seems like everything related to trans position is disabled. Cruise control. Back up camera. Now what

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Above is the FSM info for code P0705 from TIS. Hopefully that helps
 
Above is the FSM info for code P0705 from TIS. Hopefully that helps
Thanks. I was actually able to log in from home using my dealer credentials so I have that but greatly appreciated.
 
I unplugged the connection at the neutral safety switch and blew air into the male and female but still not working. Had wife sit inside while I tapped on the switch but display stayed blank. To test the switch requires removal of the switch to access the pins so I'm going to throw parts at it and replace the switch. My cost $110.00 . I removed the trim surrounding the shifter in the car I only see a 4 wire connector that I believe is for the lighting. Seems like the only electrical parts are under truck at the switch. I'll report back after replaced
 
Just finished. Took 3 hours. Switch was rusted to the trans selector shaft. I'll post pics. But worst of all is it didn't fix the issue. As another note no reverse lights either I'm assuming because it doesn't know what gear is what. I guess there's another switch (probably in the shifter assembly itself)
 
Just finished. Took 3 hours. Switch was rusted to the trans selector shaft. I'll post pics. But worst of all is it didn't fix the issue. As another note no reverse lights either I'm assuming because it doesn't know what gear is what. I guess there's another switch (probably in the shifter assembly itself)

I kindof assumed the reverse lights were controlled by the BCM, but it appears not.

The EWD lists a C19 park/neutral position switch on the passenger side of the transmission. Switched +12v on the green wire pin 2, via the "BK UP/LP" 10A fuse. Out of the switch the light blue/red wire pin 1 goes on to the bulbs.
 
NEW INFO!!
rechecked 10 amp back up lamp fuse in panel under dash. Must have missed seeing it the first time I checked it but it is blown. Installed a new 10 amp fuse started the truck and it showed trans position P on display. Shifted to reverse back up camera Came on for a split second then disappeared as well as trans position indicator went to blank again. Pulled 10 a back up light fuse sure enough blown again. I have led back up light bulbs that have been there for a few years without issue. Maybe something to do with those. Anyway at least I can duplicate the issue now. Have to press on with testing
 
Because I can't rest until this is solved I pulled the back up light bulbs out and they both reek of electrical burn. Both have black spots near the microchip. Put in 2 stock bulbs and everything works now without blowing fuses. Kind of hard to see but there is a burnt up area to the right of the chip on the bulb. Neutral switch needs a slight adjustment aside have to hold pressure on the shift handle to make the D Show up on dash. Same with Neutral but park and reverse are ok. The sport shift is not displaying but I think that's because the d isn't showing and you can't hold pressure on the shifter and slide to the left so hoping once the Neutral switch is adjusted that sport display should show. Aye yay yay

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Glad to hear you got it all fixed.

It’s always interesting to see how adding on cheap after market mods seems to mess up some other system down the chain. It really goes to show how well designed all of the OEM parts work together on these rigs.
 
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Glad to hear you got it all fixed.

It’s always interesting to see how adding on after market mods seems to mess up some other system down the chain. It really goes to show how well designed all of the OEM parts work together on these rigs.
Agreed. Only good thing is now I have a new neutral safety switch installed and i took lots of pictures and can post the process on here. Was a struggle. My truck spent its first 8 years or so in Texas but the safety switch was still seized on the shaft. Solid metal shaft and aluminum parts on the switch housing don't mix
Thanks
 
Where are you located? The park/neutral failure on 4Runners is associated with the rust belt, and sounds like you had some allusions to that being the case with your rig.

Strange failure on the LED backup lights. Any chance you hooked up your battery in reverse by accident during the oil change? I wouldn’t think the park/neutral failure would cause an LED failure, let alone one that’s totally roasted like you showed.

Being that both bulbs roasted at the same time, a (very) wrong voltage had to exist on +12 or 0 to get that kinda magic smoke.
 
Glad to hear you got it all fixed.

It’s always interesting to see how adding on after market mods seems to mess up some other system down the chain. It really goes to show how well designed all of the OEM parts work together on these rigs.
Makes the case for quality aftermarket vs the cheap Amazon stuff being pumped out.

I paid more for my Philips LED license plate lights than I would have had to for some alternatives.. but I have no concerns about them causing other problems.
 

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