Trailteq keyless entry (1 Viewer)

[BuzzAZ]

Edit: I can no longer recommend this product due to parasitic drain issues and a severe limitation that was not disclosed: with this system, you can no longer use your door switches to lock the doors or it puts the system “out of phase” requiring a key to unlock the door.

Edited by Moderator: There are lots of positive reviews, have you sent it back for warranty? @BuzzAZ everyone has issues, it is what they do about it that sets them a part.

80 Series Landcruiser Plug-and-Play Keyless Remote Entry

Product Info This plug-and-play kit adds a keyless remote entry function to 80 Series Land Cruisers that came with factory central locking. Hassle free installation with absolutely no cutting, splicing or tampering with any of the original wiring harness. 2025 Version 2 update includes improved...

trailteq.com.au

 

[thatcabledude]

Oooo. Very nice.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Yeah, looks like a nice simple product

 

[Saito]

I posted a link to this product in another thread but hadn’t tried it for myself at the time. I went ahead and ordered it shortly after and installed it this evening. My review is pretty short: they had it out the door in a day, the product is well made, installation is simple, it’s fully plug and play, and it works perfectly.

I don’t have any affiliation with the company, but just wanted to pass this along for those looking for keyless entry without splicing in an alarm system.

80 Series Landcruiser Plug-and-Play Keyless Remote Entry

Product Info This plug-and-play kit adds a keyless remote entry function to 80 Series Land Cruisers that came with factory central locking. Hassle free installation with absolutely no cutting, splicing or tampering with any of the original wiring harness. 2025 Version 2 update includes improved...

trailteq.com.au

I’m curious about the range on it ? And does the little “trunk pop” button function ? Appreciate the review. Had this link saved in my notes for a while now.

 

[BuzzAZ]

I haven’t tested it to see how far away it works, but I hit the unlock when I’m walking up from probably 30-ish feet and it works without issue. I’m out of town now but can do a range test when I’m back next weekend.

My fobs only have lock and unlock and not the hatch button shown in the stock pictures. The hatch unlocks, but I don’t think there are mechanisms to pop the hatch besides pulling the handle (at least mine doesn’t have anything).

 

[Gascan]

I haven’t tested it to see how far away it works, but I hit the unlock when I’m walking up from probably 30-ish feet and it works without issue. I’m out of town now but can do a range test when I’m back next weekend.

My fobs only have lock and unlock and not the hatch button shown in the stock pictures. The hatch unlocks, but I don’t think there are mechanisms to pop the hatch besides pulling the handle (at least mine doesn’t have anything).

Mind posting a photo of your fob when you have a chance? Pretty please.

 

[alia176]

What is this witchcraft y'all are speaking of? I think I need one. I have central locking but never had any sort of a factory alarm or anything. So this thing is used primarily for remote locking/unlocking and that's it?

 

[lumbee1]

If I am getting remote locking/unlocking, I would also like remote start.

 

[landtank]

I’ve got one coming in. My first 80 had the factory system and if you were more that 5ft away you had to hold the fob to your chin.

 

[CruiseLander]

does one need to remove the door panel to install this kit?

 

[jbee]

I’ve got one coming in. My first 80 had the factory system and if you were more that 5ft away you had to hold the fob to your chin.

Yup. Mine still works. 5ft max. But it beeps.

 

[BuzzAZ]

Edit: I can no longer recommend this product due to parasitic drain issues and a severe limitation that was not disclosed: with this system, you can no longer use your door switches to lock the doors or it puts the system “out of phase” requiring a key to unlock the door.

Edited by Moderator: There are lots of positive reviews, have you sent it back for warranty? @BuzzAZ everyone has issues, it is what they do about it that sets them a part.

80 Series Landcruiser Plug-and-Play Keyless Remote Entry

Product Info This plug-and-play kit adds a keyless remote entry function to 80 Series Land Cruisers that came with factory central locking. Hassle free installation with absolutely no cutting, splicing or tampering with any of the original wiring harness. 2025 Version 2 update includes improved...

trailteq.com.au

To moderator: The out of phase/loss of door switch functionality issue I described is apparently the “normal” operation of the system. It’s completely idiotic and a non-starter for me. The limitation is so severe that it should have been disclosed and it wasn’t.

I spoke with the company and I found them unhelpful. They offered for me to pay to ship it back to AUS. If they found a problem with the parasitic drain issue they would cover it. If they didn’t, then I could either pay to have it shipped again or pay a restocking fee. All of my issues started when I installed their crappy product and ended when I removed it. Either way, I wasn’t going risk sinking more money into it when the functionality is really no more than a toy. Lesson learned.

 

[HDJ80L]

Have mine installed for 2,5 months now not driving a lot and didn't notice excessive draw so far, although I still want to verify that by measurement. I've looked into details of the electronic unit used in the kit and it is specified with less than 12mA of standby current. It would take many months to drain a healthy battery with that, if driven regularely you won't notice it at all. Unless of course there's something wrong/out of spec with the unit or installation, which might be true in OPs case.

 

[BuzzAZ]

No doubt something is wrong with the unit I have. My point is that giving up the door lock functionality isn’t worth the hassle of trying to get it fixed. It’s a severe limitation and could have been remedied easily if the thing had been engineered properly. A limitation that should be disclosed because it’s nowhere near the functionality a normal person would expect.

 

[sadovnik]

Mine works perfectly fine with no parasitic draw and I'm able to use the door switches. I did have a little issue with the wiring loom as one of the pins popped out, but I just soldered it and it's as good as new now.

 

[BuzzAZ]

You can use the door switches. You just have to use your key (or the door switch again) before the keyfob works. For example, if you lock your car with the door switch you cannot unlock it with the fob. This was confirmed as normal operation by Trailteq. Maybe they don’t know their own product?

 

[Fj80oregon]

@Trail Teq surprised you are not responding on here. I purchased and thought I had a parasitic draw but it was not from there system. I reached out and customer service was great sent me a YouTube link how to test for excessive draw from there system which there was none. My remote works fine and have had zero issue since.

 

[BuzzAZ]

It’s nothing I haven’t communicated to him directly. If he wants to come on here and contradict what he already told me, that’s fine.

The parasitic draw was 100% his unit. It started when I installed it and stopped when I removed it. It was supposedly bench tested before it left, so excuse me for being skeptical that the same bench tests would yield different results. Best case, he fixes it and sends it back - it would be sitting on the same shelf collecting dust that it is now. My point, for the 16th time, is the intended functionality of it is severely limited and is no more than a toy. My issue is the severe limitations weren’t disclosed and aren’t consistent with the “normal” functionality of a common keyless entry system. He wasn’t willing to disclose the limitations so I did it for him. If you and others are happy with it then great. I want to be able to unlock my doors without worrying about whether the door switch was used to lock them or not like every other keyless entry system I’ve ever encountered. I’m sure I’m not the only person around with the same expectations.

 

[Trail Teq]

@Trail Teq surprised you are not responding on here. I purchased and thought I had a parasitic draw but it was not from there system. I reached out and customer service was great sent me a YouTube link how to test for excessive draw from there system which there was none. My remote works fine and have had zero issue since.

Hey @Fj80oregon Glad to hear your problem was resolved and I am happy that my customer service helped out.

I had not actually seen these comments but thank you for tagging me. Not what I wanted to be reading or replying to a day before going away on holiday but here we are.

It’s nothing I haven’t communicated to him directly. If he wants to come on here and contradict what he already told me, that’s fine.

The parasitic draw was 100% his unit. It started when I installed it and stopped when I removed it. It was supposedly bench tested before it left, so excuse me for being skeptical that the same bench tests would yield different results. Best case, he fixes it and sends it back - it would be sitting on the same shelf collecting dust that it is now. My point, for the 16th time, is the intended functionality of it is severely limited and is no more than a toy. My issue is the severe limitations weren’t disclosed and aren’t consistent with the “normal” functionality of a common keyless entry system. He wasn’t willing to disclose the limitations so I did it for him. If you and others are happy with it then great. I want to be able to unlock my doors without worrying about whether the door switch was used to lock them or not like every other keyless entry system I’ve ever encountered. I’m sure I’m not the only person around with the same expectations.

Hello again!

In our private messages last year, you were stating that you suspected that my unit is causing a parasitic draw. I never said that is out of the question, and was genuinely curious to get to the bottom of it.

It is upsetting to see that despite me offering several solutions and outcomes to you in our private messages, you feel the need to publically bash my product and the business that supports me and my family.

You mentioned above that you found my service unhelpful, stating that I wanted you to send it back to me at your expense. I am aware that you are in the US and postage back to me in Australia is long and a bit more expensive than domestic, which is why I linked you several resources showing how to test for parastic draw with a multimeter. I then even took time out of my day to take my car apart and film a video for you showing you how to do the test step by step. I did that for you so that we could hopefully determine if there was an issue and save you sending it back to me at all...

You were not willing to do any of those tests, so the only other option is to send the product back to me to test. I am sorry that you didn't like that but there is nothing else I can do in the absence of data to prove a claim.

Sending a suspected faulty product back to the manufacturer is standard warranty procedures for a suspected faulty product.

R.e. your feedback regarding the syncing requirements of my kit, as explained in our messages last year, it is not something that I can control as it is a limitation of the Toyota door control relay. When the manual door lock switch is set to lock, it stops the Toyota door control relay (not the wireless Trail Teq relay) from sending an unlock signal to the door lock motors. That is not my kit, it is how the Toyota system works and I can't change that without adding considerable complexity (and cost) to my kit. I don't want to do that as I want to keep the kit simple and affordable. At the end of the day, as long as the user locks and unlocks their car with the keyless fob (which is why most people buy this kit I guess...) and not the manual door lock, there will never be a syncing issue. Again, sorry that this is something you are not happy with.

Despite being disappointed to read these comments, I still want you to have a positive outcome with my product and my previous offers to rectify the suspected parasitic draw issues stands and will stand for the duration of the warranty period.

You can:

- Perform the diagnostic tests, send me a video of the tests and the results, and if it is confirmed my kit is causing your issues, I will refund you!
- Send the unit back to me for warranty testing. I can give you assistance/advice on doing this in a cost effective way through USPS. If it is faulty, I will refund or replace for you, and will of course reimburse any return postage expenses as I already stated to you. If there is a fault, you are not out of pocket...

Please send me a new private message, email, or instagram DM and I will happily help.

(Please bare in mind I am way on a camping holiday with my family for the next three days though, so will be able to reply when I get home).

Have a nice weekend.

Kind regards,
Ben

 

[Trail Teq]

Have mine installed for 2,5 months now not driving a lot and didn't notice excessive draw so far, although I still want to verify that by measurement. I've looked into details of the electronic unit used in the kit and it is specified with less than 12mA of standby current. It would take many months to drain a healthy battery with that, if driven regularely you won't notice it at all. Unless of course there's something wrong/out of spec with the unit or installation, which might be true in OPs case.

That is correct. Most 80 series have about 85AH of battery available to them and this kit uses about 10 milliamps, so would take close to a year to drain.