Trail Gear FJ80 HD Steering Kit Owners? Tie rods problems (1 Viewer)

[yellowgeko]

So I was out wrenching on the cruiser the two day ago and decided to replace the boots on my tie rods. The tie rods seem fine no loose play or anything, only the grease was oozing out on a few and a couple ripped boots.

I go to separate the steering relay end with a tie rod separator (not a pickle fork) and somehow end up deforming the stud so that it is no longer usable. I start looking at parts and find this kit on trial gear website:

https://www.trail-gear.com/TG/FJ80_HD_Steering_Kit/i_0_0_3986/_300440-1-KIT.aspx#.Vm8Dk0orLIU

For the price of a steering relay, I am already a quarter of the way to the kit link above in price.

The kit seems to be completely bolt on, which is great for me. Heavier tubing, I can replace all the tie rod ends and steering wheel dampener while I am at it. All for the less than the price of just four Toyota Tie Rod ends alone.

The reason I am looking at the kit is because of price, all new parts, its completely bolt on and I don’t have to fuss with getting the old tie rod ends out of the tie rods. Everything I have read says it’s almost worth it to just replace all components when rebuilding the steering than reuse the rods; I have had an alignment before and the guy spent like 4 hours trying to get just the drag link loose (he finally did). I am worried about getting the rest loose by myself.

Does anyone have the kit above? Opinions? Anyone have any advice for not just going with Toyota new tie rod ends only? Any help would be appreciated, I am ready to pull the trigger on something so I can get it driving again.

On a side not, from my searches it appears that GM 1 Ton tie rod ends will fit normal Toyota tubes, but all the stud holes will need to be widened with a reamer to fit the Chevy parts, is that correct? I am just looking for down the road conversions possibly?

 

[etarasoff]

I seem to recall @1973Guppie giving the kit a good review...

 

[Rwhat]

I have the kit. It's good for the price. Bent my rod on a trip.
The only downside to the kit is the sector shaft become the weak link if you wheel hard.

If you have a OME stabilizer you can get it to fit or use the supplied steering stabilizer.

 

[inkpot]

[QUOTE="Rwhat, post:
The only downside to the kit is the sector shaft become the weak link if you wheel hard.[/QUOTE

That is the tuff part. You have to decide which part will be the "fuse" to blow. If the tie rod and/or drag link are too strong, then you snap a TRR or sector shaft. What is easier to repair/bandaid/replace on the trail??bent rod is my vote.

 

[yellowgeko]

View attachment 1176483 View attachment 1176477 I have the kit. It's good for the price. Bent my rod on a trip.
The only downside to the kit is the sector shaft become the weak link if you wheel hard.

If you have a OME stabilizer you can get it to fit or use the supplied steering stabilizer.

Thanks for the pics, I am assuming that the bent rod is from the kit? Hit something pretty good it looks like.

[/QUOTE

That is the tuff part. You have to decide which part will be the "fuse" to blow. If the tie rod and/or drag link are too strong, then you snap a TRR or sector shaft. What is easier to repair/bandaid/replace on the trail??bent rod is my vote.[/QUOTE]

This is an interesting concept that I had not thought of before. Like most things, I don't really figure out my needs vs wants till after I have spent the money on the cruiser. Why does upgrading the tie rods seem to be so popular if it puts harder to replace/repair parts at risk?

Is there a place to get regular tie rods instead of DOM tubing?

 

[inkpot]

Most folks don't think about the fuse. I think that Toyota still carries the part.

 

[Hinterland]

I also have that kit installed. Haven't had any problems yet. Works great and a nice upgrade from the stock parts. You have to use a u-bolt bracket for the steering stabilizer instead of how the factory one was mounted into the ear cast into the end on that side. But for me thats not an issue. Most of the older rigs Ive wheeled all had that type of stabilizer mount. Just wanted to point it out if it was something you were not aware of.

 

[yellowgeko]

I also have that kit installed. Haven't had any problems yet. Works great and a nice upgrade from the stock parts. You have to use a u-bolt bracket for the steering stabilizer instead of how the factory one was mounted into the ear cast into the end on that side. But for me thats not an issue. Most of the older rigs Ive wheeled all had that type of stabilizer mount. Just wanted to point it out if it was something you were not aware of.

How long have you had the kit, and have the TREs seemed to hold up well? I have heard a lot of mixed reviews about non Toyota TREs....

 

[richardlillard1]

Looks like it uses jam nuts instead of the factory-style clamps, from what I've seen/heard those come loose very easily.

I've bent my drag link a few times and my tie rod once; each time the truck still drove home and if the steering being off bothers you, it can be straightened on the trail with a strap and another vehicle, the factory jack, etc.

I guess if you went to a 105 sector shaft it would be a bit stronger, but where does that move the weak link to? I would rather know where the weak link is and how to address it than to be stuck in the middle of nowhere with no way to steer the truck.

The truck below still made it home after using a strap to fix it:

 

[akarilo]

Are the ends OEM or aftermarket. I had some bad luck with the 555 ends and went back with OEM. I also agree that the pinch clamps hold better than jam nuts. Man a free has some really hravy duty clamps that they use on their link kit. I eventually ended up with their clamps, OEM ends and a front range drag link cut long enough to encompass practically all of threads, after bending non OEM tre. The MAF tie rod is 34.5" long and mine is 35.5". The links from Front Range are $85 each and they'll make them to your specifications. Just a few options.

 

[akarilo]

 

[baldilocks]

Where are the rod ends made? What brand? Trail gear does not make parts and that price is frighteningly low. My rod ends are Joint Fuji from Spector offroad and they have been heat treated for increased toughness. I also have DOM rods and my rig sees the rubicon and such all year long with no problems yet.
The Dom is drastically more bend resistant and I don't believe that stronger tie rods are the cause of a broken sector shaft. Stock tie rods are pretty damn thick and strong enough, end to end, for someone who puts enough force into the steering wheel to break a sector shaft. My concern after installing Dom rods is the rod ends because I can now scuff the rods across rocks and logs quite heavily without the rods giving and that's a greater side load. Driver prudence and finesse helps the cruiser survive.

 

[Hinterland]

How long have you had the kit, and have the TREs seemed to hold up well? I have heard a lot of mixed reviews about non Toyota TREs....

I have had it installed for less than a year but ran the Rubicon 2 weeks after install with no problems so thats a pretty good trial by fire for my standards. The ends don't look like they are cheap or weak. They are sealed just like the factory ones But from what Ive seen most people overgrease if there is a zerk on them.

Everyone will have their preference about what is best in their opinion but these replys Ive given you are just my experience with the product you're asking about.

 

[Hinterland]

Looks like it uses jam nuts instead of the factory-style clamps, from what I've seen/heard those come loose very easily.

I've bent my drag link a few times and my tie rod once; each time the truck still drove home and if the steering being off bothers you, it can be straightened on the trail with a strap and another vehicle, the factory jack, etc.

I guess if you went to a 105 sector shaft it would be a bit stronger, but where does that move the weak link to? I would rather know where the weak link is and how to address it than to be stuck in the middle of nowhere with no way to steer the truck.

The truck below still made it home after using a strap to fix it:
View attachment 1176735

The rig in that photo has more problems than just a bent drag link.........Whats up with the front bolt hole on the lower arm???

 

[richardlillard1]

The rig in that photo has more problems than just a bent drag link.........Whats up with the front bolt hole on the lower arm???

He's run the hitch pin mod for about ten years and not pulling the pin every time he went out, so the hole egged out.

I've driven the rig, doesn't seem to have much, if any effect on road manners, so it doesn't concern him.

 

[MItchell17]

We can also supply a similar kit, Marlin makes our links in house with USA made DOM,

We also have our Tie rod ends that we use for our high steer that would be a factory fit on an 80 series.

The only thing that u would need to get separate is the steering stabilizer. Witch an OME stabilizer would be better than the generic on in my opinion, Our price would be 224.

Give us a call 55925CRAWL or pm me

 

[Tools R Us]

The rig in that photo has more problems ...

It maybe difficult to detect, but that rig is not a cream puff, it has been wheeled, like aggressively, often, 10+ yrs.

IIRC, the link was original to the rig, and that was the third time that it had been bent. Most of us have bent a rod and/or link at least once, if carefully straightened will work. This was good data, after the second time, it's better to replace. It was replaced with an OE, used, straight spare, good to go.

If you hit hard enough, something is going to give, bend, break. Have seen knuckle studs, rod ends and sector shafts sheared off. IMHO, prefer to have the give in the rod, much easier to straighten a rod than deal with stuff that is broken off.

 

[yellowgeko]

Where are the rod ends made? What brand? Trail gear does not make parts and that price is frighteningly low. My rod ends are Joint Fuji from Spector offroad and they have been heat treated for increased toughness. I also have DOM rods and my rig sees the rubicon and such all year long with no problems yet.
The Dom is drastically more bend resistant and I don't believe that stronger tie rods are the cause of a broken sector shaft. Stock tie rods are pretty damn thick and strong enough, end to end, for someone who puts enough force into the steering wheel to break a sector shaft. My concern after installing Dom rods is the rod ends because I can now scuff the rods across rocks and logs quite heavily without the rods giving and that's a greater side load. Driver prudence and finesse helps the cruiser survive.

I called Trail Gear to ask about the TRE brand, as I was curious myself. His direct quote was, "I don't know. I pulled one and couldn't find any markings. Its a big company that supplies these to us."

I have had it installed for less than a year but ran the Rubicon 2 weeks after install with no problems so that's a pretty good trial by fire for my standards. The ends don't look like they are cheap or weak. They are sealed just like the factory ones But from what I've seen most people overgrease if there is a zerk on them.

Everyone will have their preference about what is best in their opinion but these replys Ive given you are just my experience with the product you're asking about.

Thank you for the replies, this is exactly the feedback I was looking for.

Thanks everyone for the input, experiences, and opinions. I am still mulling this over.

 

[Hinterland]

He's run the hitch pin mod for about ten years and not pulling the pin every time he went out, so the hole egged out.

I've driven the rig, doesn't seem to have much, if any effect on road manners, so it doesn't concern him.

Didn't mean to offend, Just saw the pin and it looked like an emergency fix. Not familiar with the mod you're referring to but if it works for him then great. I will stick to having 3 bolts on my arms.

 

[Tools R Us]

Didn't mean to offend, ...

No offense, more like , the White Elephant isn't perfect! Actually for his use, it is. He got it as a wreck/salvage title, set it up and used it. For what he does with it, starting with a cream puff would have been a shame. It's a solid wheeler, capable, reliable, clean inside, but as he says, body work is over rated! My guess; the "investment" paid off longtime ago in fun alone.