semlin
curmudgeon
checking/adding knuckle grease through the abs sensor hole?
scary
scary
Trail Damage Help Needed
- Thread starter Curran
- Start date
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Curran,
pop the stuff back in and break it next time you wheel it
Seriously man, just glad nothing poofed when you were driving. We'd like to keep you around for awhile longer (you know, just to kick here and there etc. )
pop the stuff back in and break it next time you wheel it
Seriously man, just glad nothing poofed when you were driving. We'd like to keep you around for awhile longer (you know, just to kick here and there etc. )
- Thread starter
- #43
More Pictures for those who are still following this thread.
The first is a picture of the damage near the top trunion race.
The second is a picture of the wear around the edge of the outer birfield cage.
I caught this just in time to save my self a big repair bill or even worse.
Remember to tighten those studs!
Curran
The first is a picture of the damage near the top trunion race.
The second is a picture of the wear around the edge of the outer birfield cage.
I caught this just in time to save my self a big repair bill or even worse.
Remember to tighten those studs!
Curran
Guess what I'm going to be checking when I get home tonight? 
Glad to see you've got it under control. I work in Rockville - you can email or PM me if you need a lift anytime.
For those in the area - we should meet up for a Cruiser lunch!
Glad to see you've got it under control. I work in Rockville - you can email or PM me if you need a lift anytime.
For those in the area - we should meet up for a Cruiser lunch!
BigGunna said:Guess what I'm going to be checking when I get home tonight?
Glad to see you've got it under control. I work in Rockville - you can email or PM me if you need a lift anytime.
For those in the area - we should meet up for a Cruiser lunch!
I'm staying Rockville, working in DC. Where do you live? I was thinking about putting together a wrenching party one weekend b/w T-giving and X-mas. Any interest? I don't have a place to wrench here, but I'd be more than happy to bring my tools and FSM
Ary
Arya Ebrahimi said:I'm staying Rockville, working in DC. Where do you live? I was thinking about putting together a wrenching party one weekend b/w T-giving and X-mas. Any interest? I don't have a place to wrench here, but I'd be more than happy to bring my tools and FSM
Ary
Live in NoVA but work in Rockville. I don't have the right tools, let alone the skills, to work on the Cruiser like most of the guys on the forum
. However, I do have a humble two car garage, so I might be able to host. Only problem is the home owners assoc. in my neighborhood doesn't approve of working on vehicles in the driveway. As long as we're in the garage, things should be ok. 
It happens here in the UK too....DOH
After reading the woes of the studs shearing.loosening off, I checked mine as I did have some grease on the bottom half of the knuckle and suspension arm.
I found one of the front studs sheared off, but was still in the arm, a little pull and it fell out leaving the rest of the stud up in the knuckle, the other front stud was loose, I tried to tighten it up, but it feels like it is pulling out the thread in the knuckle, so stopped doing it up, the two back studs are tight.
As only two have come adrift, would you think that the seal will be ok? and do you think I could get this done without a strip down?
Is it possible to remove the arm that bolts to the knuckle without to much trouble?
Any help on this would be greatly apprieciated, I have only had it a week!
Kind regards Mick from London UK
After reading the woes of the studs shearing.loosening off, I checked mine as I did have some grease on the bottom half of the knuckle and suspension arm.
I found one of the front studs sheared off, but was still in the arm, a little pull and it fell out leaving the rest of the stud up in the knuckle, the other front stud was loose, I tried to tighten it up, but it feels like it is pulling out the thread in the knuckle, so stopped doing it up, the two back studs are tight.
As only two have come adrift, would you think that the seal will be ok? and do you think I could get this done without a strip down?
Is it possible to remove the arm that bolts to the knuckle without to much trouble?
Any help on this would be greatly apprieciated, I have only had it a week!
Kind regards Mick from London UK
It will be difficult to get a socket on the two bolts closest to the backing plate with the backing plate installed. If the steering arm is still tight, the seal is probably still OK.
If you end up needing to remove the backing plate, I would go ahead and take it the rest of the way down. Be sure to get the new part numbered stud, 90126-12005. You will also need a new cone washer, 42323-60020, flat washer, 90201-12019 and nut, 94115-71200.
These numbers apply to an 80 series. You did not state what your vehicle was so I assumed an 80.
D-
If you end up needing to remove the backing plate, I would go ahead and take it the rest of the way down. Be sure to get the new part numbered stud, 90126-12005. You will also need a new cone washer, 42323-60020, flat washer, 90201-12019 and nut, 94115-71200.
These numbers apply to an 80 series. You did not state what your vehicle was so I assumed an 80.
D-
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
Dan-Are the 80 series knuckle studs the same as the 60 series ones with the torx drive? If so, I would replacing ALL the knuckle studs during a tear down. It is very easy to seat the studs in the knuckle with the torx head, which should eliminate the tendency to loosen up (I'd still check periodically though).
Yes, they are the same. Used top and bottom in a 60 as opposed to bottom-only in an 80. The cones are on the top plates in a 60.
So, the general rule I am deriving from this discussion is that after a knuckle service where the ateering arms are removed from those four bolts on the knuckle bottoms, it is essentially mandatory to recheck the torque on those nuts say after the first week and then maybe every two or three weeks to ensure that the studs are not backing out.
My conjecture on the OPs problem is that the studs had already backed out partway and couldn't stand up to the stresses in that configuration, causing them to snap. ??? RIght?
By the way, not to hijack the thread, but what is the funtion of the conewashers in this application. They must do something that cant be done by a simple lockwasher?
My conjecture on the OPs problem is that the studs had already backed out partway and couldn't stand up to the stresses in that configuration, causing them to snap. ??? RIght?
By the way, not to hijack the thread, but what is the funtion of the conewashers in this application. They must do something that cant be done by a simple lockwasher?
- Thread starter
- #52
TLCgrappler said:
No. The General Rule you should take away all this is to check the torque on the studs BEFORE you bolt the steering arm back on.
The three jobs that I just did got all new studs on each of them. I'm not taking any chances for the 10.00 or so in parts.
The problem starts when the studs get backed out during steering arm removal and do not get re-set. The cone washers center the steering arm.
knuckle
Hi all.... yes it is an 80 and the two back studs are still tight, so hopefully seal will be ok, what is the torque setting for the studs?
Hi all.... yes it is an 80 and the two back studs are still tight, so hopefully seal will be ok, what is the torque setting for the studs?
studs
one of the studs feels like it is pulling out when I was tightening it up today, so I stopped, is it normally the case that the thread goes in the knuckle or on the stud or both? will them part numbers be the same over here in the UK? and can you tell me why the grease comes out of the knuckle when these bolts come loose?
one of the studs feels like it is pulling out when I was tightening it up today, so I stopped, is it normally the case that the thread goes in the knuckle or on the stud or both? will them part numbers be the same over here in the UK? and can you tell me why the grease comes out of the knuckle when these bolts come loose?
Studs are threaded on both side of an area that is not threaded. So you install the stud so one side threads up to the shoulder and torque it down. Then you tighten the nuts on to the stud. The grease comes out because the holes for the studs pass completely through to the inside of the knuckle. I'd order the new studs and then install them. The new studs have a Torx end on them which will make repairing this easy.
Your going to have to find out if the numbers are the same as their are only a couple of people on here from the UK. Having Dan's numbers with you wouldn't hurt.
Your going to have to find out if the numbers are the same as their are only a couple of people on here from the UK. Having Dan's numbers with you wouldn't hurt.
studs
what I was trying to say, is the stud a softer metal than the knuckle, or the other way round, was wondering what bit is likley to be stripping, if the thread is stripping out of the knuckle, it will be more of a serious job
what I was trying to say, is the stud a softer metal than the knuckle, or the other way round, was wondering what bit is likley to be stripping, if the thread is stripping out of the knuckle, it will be more of a serious job
my guess would be that the stud's threads are shot. You'll need to pull out that stud to confirm this.
studs
Cheers Landmark.... That has made me a bit happier, was gonna look around the net to find some sort of chemical fix for the knackered thread in the knuckle, its only one that may be a bit dodgy.
we use quite a bit of chemical/liquid metal at work, I am a mechanical technician in a papermill and use lots of different types of liquid/paste metal on lots of applications, building up shafts and coating pumps, its called "belzona" I will have a look at work tomorrow, I was just wondering if it would be safe to drive the car to work tomorrow 12 miles mostly highway, what you think, two bolts are tight and one feels like stripping but still quite tight, the other sheared off?
Cheers Landmark.... That has made me a bit happier, was gonna look around the net to find some sort of chemical fix for the knackered thread in the knuckle, its only one that may be a bit dodgy.
we use quite a bit of chemical/liquid metal at work, I am a mechanical technician in a papermill and use lots of different types of liquid/paste metal on lots of applications, building up shafts and coating pumps, its called "belzona" I will have a look at work tomorrow, I was just wondering if it would be safe to drive the car to work tomorrow 12 miles mostly highway, what you think, two bolts are tight and one feels like stripping but still quite tight, the other sheared off?
