traction/anti-wrap

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You could well be over 300 in materials depending on if your going to use all bushings, builderball, or hem joint at the front. IMHO I dont think you can over build this make sure to use a heavy wall tube they have to take alot of pressure. I have seen them bend the stock cross member most people end up making a mount. Your friend will know if your mig is big enough or not then.
 
i'd put the forward end of the bar above the shackle mount, if possible - feels like a superior design to me given the direction of the forces on the shackle. most of those pictures have the shackle above the bar. :meh: yeah, i realize space is tight.

Love the one that appears to not be using a shackle at all! :eek: hard to tell if that bar telescopes... hope so.
 
whoa, 300+ no f'ing way,

3 sleeves with bushings, $60
Scrap steel from downtown $20
Make your own shackle or use a stock fj40 shackles $free
Johnny joint $40
Brackets on axle $12
Bolts and nuts $10
$150 max and that's doing it the right way.... I'll post up pics of my traction bar later tomorrow and you'll see what i did...
 
thanks for all the help everyone.

badass, when you post pics you would by any chance have measurements?

I would use what others have done to construct a rough ideas of what you want to make.

There are too many variables to copy an exact traction bar, but
this one is a good build, cam posted it earlier, and is a great example.

oh looky here
 
ok so basically what i can tell is the bar on the axle should be fixed and it should have a shackle or be able to pivot where it connects to the frame.

and as for length there is no specific just what ever length is needed to get from the axle to the shackle
 
Love the one that appears to not be using a shackle at all! :eek: hard to tell if that bar telescopes... hope so.

you act as if no shackle is a safety issue? all the shackle does is allow extra articulation. lots of bars are made with no shackle. i've been running a setup with no shackle for decades with no issues.:confused:
 
you act as if no shackle is a safety issue? all the shackle does is allow extra articulation. lots of bars are made with no shackle. i've been running a setup with no shackle for decades with no issues.:confused:

If your bar has no shackle and also does not have a telescoping feature you risk breaking the forward mounting point off. The distance from the axle to the forward mounting point changes as you articulate and as the spring bushings get squeezed. If your bar is a fixed length (no shackle or telescoping feature) then something will give - maybe its just shortening the life of the spring bushings or maybe that mount is gonna break soon.
 
If your bar has no shackle and also does not have a telescoping feature you risk breaking the forward mounting point off. The distance from the axle to the forward mounting point changes as you articulate and as the spring bushings get squeezed. If your bar is a fixed length (no shackle or telescoping feature) then something will give - maybe its just shortening the life of the spring bushings or maybe that mount is gonna break soon.

It may shorten the spring bushing life, but if your mount breaks off, than you need to do some better welding.
 
Here is mine, I have them on both sides...
Traction bar.webp
 
vitesse

i think its time you go 4 link.

your half way there :)
 
Cam, Maybe on another vehicle, Im not about to tear it all apart again, I will never finish it....

i hear ya i start something and it takes 6 months to get it done,

like last week it took me 10 days to finally go out and charge the battery
 
i hear ya i start something and it takes 6 months to get it done,

like last week it took me 10 days to finally go out and charge the battery

I broke my rear diff in July and I'm still working on it.


Back On topic, my diff breakage was the direct result of an anti wrap bar failure.

My advice is a true ladder bar design with bushings on the axle side and either a hiem joint or bushing on the front. Design it 20% stronger than you think it needs to be then add another 10% to that.
 
I broke my rear diff in July and I'm still working on it.


Back On topic, my diff breakage was the direct result of an anti wrap bar failure.

My advice is a true ladder bar design with bushings on the axle side and either a hiem joint or bushing on the front. Design it 20% stronger than you think it needs to be then add another 10% to that.

you gotta explain more when you say true ladder bar design. im still learning as i go, before long ill be a 40 nerd, but not any where near that yet
 

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