Don’t know if this is the right place to post. My son is in the military stationed in ft Bragg NC he’s been without a vehicle for 2 years, he recently saved up some $ to get a vehicle just something to get him around base, I found an 01 4Runner 200k runs great, brought it home to get it ready to drive out to NC three days later I took it to get emissions test and it started knocking nothing crazy like a cam or crank to me it sounds like a lifter or valve, I’m looking for someone who has the adjustment tools or someone willing to help me with it, it still runs good with the knock any help would be greatly appreciated
Toyota mechanics in Albuquerque?
- Thread starter Albuquerquejoeusa
- Start date
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@Albuquerquejoeusa , Try checking out the NM clubhouse forum:
There's a number of folks on there in Albuquerque.
@pappy is or was in that area and may be able to give a suggestion.
For a shop we usually recommend Toyomaster in the north valley.
As far as valve adjustment tools, I have some for my 3RZ. I'm not sure if they will work for this engine. I'm going to guess the adjustment is done with shims. All you can really do is check the clearance, unless you have replacement shims.
I'm going to move this thread over to HD Cruisers so the club can chime in.
As far as valve adjustment tools, I have some for my 3RZ. I'm not sure if they will work for this engine. I'm going to guess the adjustment is done with shims. All you can really do is check the clearance, unless you have replacement shims.
I'm going to move this thread over to HD Cruisers so the club can chime in.
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- Thread starter
- #5
Thanks guys, haven’t been on here in a while forgot how to use it
X2 toyomasters
Also ABQ QUALITY AUYO SERVICE on Arno. Honda experts but do really good work on Toyota’s too
www.abqqualityauto.com
Also ABQ QUALITY AUYO SERVICE on Arno. Honda experts but do really good work on Toyota’s too
ABQ Quality Auto Service Honda and Acura auto repair specialist
New Mexico's premier Honda and Acura auto repair and service specialist. ABQ Quality Auto Service. Dealer level expertise at a fraction of the cost
ststephen69s
AKA - VanMan
Mike who owns MBS Automotive near Corrales/Rio Rancho is a Land Cruiser fanatic. I take my JDM Toyota Van to him.
- Thread starter
- #8
If the valve adjustment tool is the same would it be possible for me to rent it from you?
Can someone post up the valve adj info from the FSM to this thread so that we can all see? If it's an overhead cam engine, which I assume it is, then my guess is that there will be shims. If they are shims sitting inside buckets, then all you need is a feeler gauge. But this is all conjecture at this stage!
However, the OP original description is that he heard "knocking" which is a far cry from "ticking" sound that a mal adjusted valve clearance engine would make. So, there might be something else is amiss? Just thinking out loud here.
Can a video of the sound be made and uploaded to YouTube then linked here?
However, the OP original description is that he heard "knocking" which is a far cry from "ticking" sound that a mal adjusted valve clearance engine would make. So, there might be something else is amiss? Just thinking out loud here.
Can a video of the sound be made and uploaded to YouTube then linked here?
I will lone it to you. Like Ali said, if you have shims in buckets you won't be able to adjust the valves unless you have the correct size shim. You don't need the tool to check the adjustment. Only if you are replacing the shim.
- Thread starter
- #11
I have a video just don’t know how to load here on mud
- Thread starter
- #12
My brother is gonna remove intake and valve cover on Saturday, we should know what it is then, the guy I got the 4Runner from has an extra set of heads with shims
Your phone should make it easy to upload your video to YouTube. After uploading it to YT, grab the link to your video and stick it here.
- Thread starter
- #14
Here’s the link
- Thread starter
- #16
It does speed up but also seems to go away at about 1200rpm, it’s very loud in video not as loud in person
I am looking for very knowledgeable Toyota tech or shop that will work in a 2uz swapped 80. I have a lean condition that I have not been able to track down. This swap is all Toyota but modified, so I need someone capable and willing to look at it. Any suggestions?
ststephen69s
AKA - VanMan
If you’re willing to go out of state, try Micah who owns Reliance Motor Works in Buena Vista, CO. He’s a Toyota trained mechanic and has been working on my domestic Toyota vans from the 1980’s, and my JDM Toyota vans from the 1990’s that have no tech manuals in English. He knows his way around Toyotas. He has been my mechanic for 13 years starting when he had his first shop in Corrales, and I still take my vehicles to him for serious work even after he moved to Colorado. DON’T go to Super 6 Tokyo in Albuquerque. Owner is also a Toyota trained mechanic, but is a rip-off.
nab856
SILVER Star
Diagnosing a lean condition is a good general vehicle topic with a variety of potential causes. It's been a source of frustration with each of my projects. What have you tried? Any air fuel ratio numbers? I would hate to see you spend money getting a loose O2 sensor diagnosed!
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This what I have done.
Below I will update everything I have done to date to trouble shoot the potential causes of my lean condition, P0171 and P0174 Limp mode type symptom). Referencing the 2005-2006 Tundra Manual diagnostic section for the 2uz VVTI they identify potential causes as:
- Air Induction System
- Injector Blockage
- MAF
- Engine Coolant Temp sensor
- Fuel Pressure
- Gas Leak in Exhaust System
- Open or Short in heated oxygen Sensor (bank 1, 2 sensor 1 Circuit)
- Heated Oxygen Sensor (bank 1, 2 sensor 1)
- Heated Oxygen Sensor heater (bank 1, 2 sensor 1
- EFI relay
- PCV Piping
- ECM
- Installed oem intake to replicate factory intake system
- Individually tested each vacuum port by capping each port for a minimum of 10 seconds while watching Fuel Trim (FT) response using tech stream. No changes in FT or audible engine response during tests.
- Individually tested each vacuum port, planum gaskets, and throttle body gasket by spraying brake cleaner each site while watching Fuel Trim (FT) response using tech stream. No changes in FT or audible engine response during tests.
- I conducted multiple smoke tests using a smoke machine connecting the machine at the intake and also at the brake booster port. The initial test identified two faint leaks that were clamped. The additional tests of 15 minutes each did not identify any leaks.
- The throttle body gasket was removed inspected and reused, the Planum gaskets are new OEM, almost all of the hoses have been replaced with new. The hoses left in place are pliable and don’t have any cracking.
- The live data FT when observed under load did not suggest a vacuum leak.
- To rule out the vacuum ports I plug every port in the intake and planum with vacuum cap except for the PCV and passenger side valve cover. Ran it like this for a 10 minutes after warmed up m. Observing the fuel trims n Techstream they don’t change at all. Took it for a short drive and they are the same under load.
- All 8 injectors were removed, tested then cleaned and retested. None of the injectors showed any significant blockage and performed equally before and after the ultra sonic cleaning.
- I cleaned a second set of injectors for the same engine as a comparison. They tested similarly to the original injectors but their performance was slightly lower which is why I reinstalled the original injectors
- I installed new oem insulators and o-rings when the injectors were installed. I did not have screens, but was able to visually inspect them and flush them to ensure they were clear of debris.
- I purchased a new OEM MAF sensor and have also rotated through a used unit for comparison testing.
- Both MAF have been cleaned with MAF cleaner spray
- The MAF is installed in the factory intake and the gasket is intact, no leaks
- I followed the oem diagnostic steps to test the MAF circuit. It tested in spec.
- There was a low voltage on the MAF circuit early in the diagnostic process. The MAF plug was replaced and the symptom has not returned
- The Sensor plug was checked and it is seated all the way.
- The sensor reports a reasonable temp of 192 degrees as viewed in Tech Stream. Believe to be operating as it should.
- The Fuel Pump and filter have been replaced with new oem units.
- The fuel pressure has been tested at idle and underload. With the fuel pressure regulator capped the pressure measured 45-46 psi. With the FPR attached to the intake is running 42-44 psi at idle.
- The fuel pump receives it’s power from the ECU as the trigger
- The manifolds are Doug Thorgely Headers designed for this engine with the SAI tube deleted. They were installed with new oem manifold gaskets. Upon inspection all header bolts are torqued and I could not locate any leaks upstream of the Air Fuel Sensors.
- Just above the headers on the heads are the port holes for Secondary Air Injection system which I deleted. The port holes were tapped and sealed with a high heat thread sealer. I found 2 on each side that could be torques tighter, so they were. No signs of a leak were obvious. There was no change in the FT after the plugs were torqued.
- Have not tested for a short in the heater circuit for this sensor
- I identified neither circuit was receiving B+ power and found the circuit was never wired up. I wired both up to the intended sensor circuit. This eliminated the trouble codes I was receiving for the circuit.
- Both Bank 1 and 2 sensor 1 Air Fuel sensors were replaced with new oem units.
- They are reporting in Tech Stream and appear to be working and can been seen responding to induced lean conditions using the brake pedal. They appear to be working correctly.
- I ran functions test in Techstream and can observe the AFS values changing during the test. They appear to be working.
The harness and ecm were customized to build a stand alone harness. My Fuel Pump receives power from the ECU.
PCV Piping
- The PCV and hose has been replaced with a new oem unit.
- This was tested during various vaccuum leak tests through all methods described previously. It was not identified as a possible leak.
- The harness and ecm were customized to build a stand alone harness. I purchased a second ECM that has been set up almost exactly the same way.
- I have switched out ECM’s but both perform equally
- The timing belt was replaced as part of the build. The timing marks were confirmed twice at the time of installation.
- I recently pulled the cam covers and reconfirmed the timing marks are still aligned and they were.
- Replaced planum with a clean used planum from a previous running engine.
- Installed new planum gaskets
- Body was not opening up completely about 1/3
- Swapped for a second throttle body that performed the same way
- Sent the Harness and ecu back to builder who made changes to harness related to the SAI delete and this corrected the issue, the throttle body opens all the way now