Markuson
SILVER Star
Man, I don't know what happens to your paint...but the paint on my grey 2008 200 is literally PERFECT...just like paint on my 16 year old 100.
What's going on over there?
Toyota/ LC paint: is it durable? (1 Viewer)
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Man, I don't know what happens to your paint...but the paint on my grey 2008 200 is literally PERFECT...just like paint on my 16 year old 100.
What's going on over there?
In the paint world, the base coat (color) is typically only applied to cover. The clear coat is the thicker of the layers. It's what has the UV protectant in it. So...colors aren't going to be 7 costs thick.
- Thread starter
- #44
Congrats! And don't forget to condition the seats as soon as you get it home, if you want them to stay new looking. (There's a thread on Leatherique - that I started) somewhere on here. Love driving this thing - it's oddly relaxing. Already have close to 2K miles in about a month of ownership.
Just did some headlight work on my 2011 super white LC and when I pulled the tape I used (green retailers tape), it pulled off a quarter sized spot of paint. Not impressed at all and this is my 8th Toyota truck
Markuson
SILVER Star
Was your truck repainted, or perhaps painted there due to a prior accident? That seems VERY strange, and unlikely to happen otherwise. Can you see if there is the full primer layer under the peeled portion? If not, it might have been a crappy paint-job by a body shop...?
I have owned 4 Lexus' and (I lost count) Toyotas. I'm not impressed with the paint durability. I remember when my mom bought her '07 ES350 new, the "Royal Ruby" red/crimson color and shine was stunning. I inherited that car last summer, and I had to work really hard on it to get it respectable, and it only had 45K miles on it. I just detailed my wife's "Deep Sea Mica" blue 2013 IS250C the other day (48K miles), and I'm not happy with it. I need to spend an entire day on the paint, and I'm gonna have to wet sand several spots.
I haven't done a thing to my Super White 200 yet, but I can already see some places that are gonna need a lot of attention. The truck has a clear bra on the front of the hood that is heavily scratched (very fine scratches), I'm guessing the PO took it through the car wash a lot. Debating peeling it off, I don't think that can be buffed/polished.
I haven't done a thing to my Super White 200 yet, but I can already see some places that are gonna need a lot of attention. The truck has a clear bra on the front of the hood that is heavily scratched (very fine scratches), I'm guessing the PO took it through the car wash a lot. Debating peeling it off, I don't think that can be buffed/polished.
I believe some of the LC have single stage paint, my 2011 white LC appears to have no clear coat...
Is that the same as the super white?
Taco2Cruiser
Crazy American Off Road
I will say on my 2011, when I sanded the body down to Line-X with one of my body guy friends, he kept saying to me that the paint and clear was more of a pain to remove than other cars.
I kinda agree with him, but also removing the paint off a 200 is a terrible experience just due to how much body there is. But I did start off at a higher grit, and quickly realized to just drop down to some real harsh paper to be able to get through that paint.
That's said, paint, no matter how high quality it is, or how many coats it is, is still a very weak products. I personally can't stand it anymore for how weak it is.
But that is why top detailers preach multiple buckets and microfibers for washing from top down, waxing monthly, using the lightest abrasive cleaners to not needlessly take of clear coat.
It's like people that use cleaner wax every time to wax a car, well you are taking a little bit of clear off every time you use that. Makes sense when you have scratch to remove, doesn't make sense when the scratches have been removed, but you are trying to finish out the bottle.
I kinda agree with him, but also removing the paint off a 200 is a terrible experience just due to how much body there is. But I did start off at a higher grit, and quickly realized to just drop down to some real harsh paper to be able to get through that paint.
That's said, paint, no matter how high quality it is, or how many coats it is, is still a very weak products. I personally can't stand it anymore for how weak it is.
But that is why top detailers preach multiple buckets and microfibers for washing from top down, waxing monthly, using the lightest abrasive cleaners to not needlessly take of clear coat.
It's like people that use cleaner wax every time to wax a car, well you are taking a little bit of clear off every time you use that. Makes sense when you have scratch to remove, doesn't make sense when the scratches have been removed, but you are trying to finish out the bottle.
Markuson
SILVER Star
I drove my silver 100 series for 13 years until it was 16 years old.
-It was parked outside for the 13 years I owned it...(cuz it was too tall for my garage), and amazingly, I never waxed it even once...took it through contractr-car-washes a lot.
When I sold it? Paint was still perfect.
I've got photos.
No rust...no peel...
**On the other hand... I had a 2001 Toyota Camry, and its paint started getting iffy on top after 6 years or so. But my 16 year old 100's paint stayed GREAT.
-It was parked outside for the 13 years I owned it...(cuz it was too tall for my garage), and amazingly, I never waxed it even once...took it through contractr-car-washes a lot.
When I sold it? Paint was still perfect.
I've got photos.
No rust...no peel...
**On the other hand... I had a 2001 Toyota Camry, and its paint started getting iffy on top after 6 years or so. But my 16 year old 100's paint stayed GREAT.
Single stage paint super white code 040. Used low tack detailers tape (green stuff). Came right off at front of hood where grill and headlight meet.
No repaint, no accidents, not good. First Toyota I have ever had this issue with. Wish I could buy the "land cruiser has everything superior to every other Toyota." Don't get me wrong, I love my LC but really disappointed by this.
No repaint, no accidents, not good. First Toyota I have ever had this issue with. Wish I could buy the "land cruiser has everything superior to every other Toyota." Don't get me wrong, I love my LC but really disappointed by this.
Taco2Cruiser
Crazy American Off Road
That really suck man, I'm sorry. Really no excuse. Either at the factory, the surface had something there to not allow proper adhesion or a chemical made its way onto the paint while driving. Being on the front by the headlight makes it a common spot. My wife's Camry was behind a car that blew its head gasket, and just barely sprinkled coolant onto the front bumper and hood. She called me about it later, and I told her to immediately find a car wash and get it off the paint. Damage was already done, and in a couple months the paint on the front of the hood started to flak off.
Such is life. I'm not mad about it. Just surprised. I whipped out the touch up paint brush and had at it. If a little paint damage is all I have to worry about this week, I'm ok with that. I'll fill the spot, wet sand it a bit, cut, buff, and wax it and pretend it never happened.
SQRRRL
SILVER Star
My 1996 4 runner paint was in excellent condition when I sold her last summer. Always garaged and took care of the paint. Hope my 2013 is the same. So far so good.
What color? Different paint colors tend to hold up differently. The 3rd gen is a prime example. You'll almost never see a 3rd gen in Medium Brown Metallic with the hood/roof not completely faded and sunburned. I had a Desert Dune (awesome color) and Sunfire Red, they held up ok but the red was starting to have clearcoat issues on the hood.
