Is anyone aware of Late model toyota brake boosters and master cylinders that fit the FJ40. Thanks for any assitance.
Toyota Brake booster and master cylinder that fit FJ40
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dgangle
total rice
Talked about 5000X. Search my name or klukychris in the 40 section. I use a Marlin 4WDB MC and a booster from a '94 80-series. Minitruck, Supra, Celica...name your poison.
do a search, lot's of info on this, many have used fj80 brake master's and boosters from minitruck, there are several variations you can use.......
I also could not find specifics about boosters when I searched. Everyone just says "minitruck" but what brand, what years? I have seen a booster from a Tundra that looked similar to the 40 bolt pattern, but who knows. does anyone have specific years etc. that are a direct bolt up to the 40 & 45's? The booster I have for my resto looks pretty rough and a nice new one would be the ticket, but not for $400.00.
I think about any one you can find will fit. I've personally used one from a 95 extended cab pickup with great success. I used it with the factory booster. The 95 booster should have fit as well, but I didn't try it.
here you go:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-seri...e-booster-marlin-master-cylinder-writeup.html
keep in mind, this is only one way to do it, there are a lot of other variations including chevy masters, and other boosters, generally a double booster will give more boost than a single unit.
not one to pimp my own s***, but maybe this can go in faq so people can find it easier?
Noah
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-seri...e-booster-marlin-master-cylinder-writeup.html
keep in mind, this is only one way to do it, there are a lot of other variations including chevy masters, and other boosters, generally a double booster will give more boost than a single unit.
not one to pimp my own s***, but maybe this can go in faq so people can find it easier?
Noah
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You can try this link, it goes to a post asking about boosters that will work. My response is the fourth one down. It might help...
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/130867-brake-booster.html
Search is a good friend
Jeff
PS. If you're too impatient to read through, I used a mid 80's Toyota 1 ton mini-truck 2wd booster. Fits perfectly.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/130867-brake-booster.html
Search is a good friend
Jeff
PS. If you're too impatient to read through, I used a mid 80's Toyota 1 ton mini-truck 2wd booster. Fits perfectly.
What year is your cruiser? I ran into a whole bunch of problems on my 66' because of some darn firewall bracing that ran from top to bottom in my engine bay.
tlcruiser66: did you ever come up with a solution for the firewall bracing? I am looking at the same issue on my 12/69 FJ40. It doesn't have a booster stock, but I would like to add one when I move to a dual circuit 10mm master cylinder (looking at a '91 FJ80 donor).
I used this adapter and a booster/mc combo from a 94 Toyota truck, pulled from a junkyard. Adapter fit right on with the booster, cleared the rib, and mounted to the firewall good. It is a close (some alternative engineering involved for the PC crowd
) fit with the air cleaner on my webber carb tho...
1968 FJ40 Marlin and Supra Master
I did the install with the master that Marlin sells and a Supra Master and there was a fair amount of cutting and mods to get it to work correctly.
If I was going to do it again, I would go the mini truck route and make sure it was a duel reservior system. This a bit safer because if you lose fluid in one of the break systems the other one still works. The Marlin master is not a duel reservior master.
You may also need a proporting valve to adjust the brakes correctly. Also, as noted by Guppie a double booster is the way to go. But they are larger and may cause fit issues.
Good luck.
I did the install with the master that Marlin sells and a Supra Master and there was a fair amount of cutting and mods to get it to work correctly.
If I was going to do it again, I would go the mini truck route and make sure it was a duel reservior system. This a bit safer because if you lose fluid in one of the break systems the other one still works. The Marlin master is not a duel reservior master.
You may also need a proporting valve to adjust the brakes correctly. Also, as noted by Guppie a double booster is the way to go. But they are larger and may cause fit issues.
Good luck.
I’m going to ask a dumb question because I’m at wit’s end on my brakes. Is the attached picture a dual reservoir master cylinder? Tha is my 1973 MC with the front residual valve removed. I put a JT Outfitters disc kit on the front and replaced all the cylinders and hard line on the rear. Now I have to double or triple pump the brakes for them to bite. Should I go to a different MC and booster than stock? Everything I read on here and elsewhere says to use a dual reservoir MC. Isn’t this what I have? Thanks.
Yep, that's a dual reservoir. Are you sure you have your system bled well enough? Leaks? Considering the amount of brake work you did I could see it being a challenge to get all of the air out. Maybe that 45 year old master cylinder could use a rebuild.
I’m not an expert, but the 1973 had drums all around. If that is the same brake booster from when you had drum brakes in front, you may need to replace with a later model brake booster(one designed for disc brakes). Now, if the booster that you have pictured is a later model booster, than maybe you can test it and make sure its working properly.
This is what I remember from testing the brake booster(someone should correct me if I’m wrong) is : with the key in the ignition, but the vehicle turned off, pump the brake pedal a few times(get it rock hard). Then start the forty while maintaining the rock hard brake pedal pressure. When the booster receives vacuum it should allow the brake pedal to depress. If the vehicle is started and the brake pedal does not move, then it could very well be a failed booster. Easy fix and there are many options to replace with, just a PITA to bolt it up.
If the booster has failed, you’ll also want to address the reason why it failed. Your master cylinder could be leaking brake fluid into the booster, causing the diaphragm to fail.
Good luck
This is what I remember from testing the brake booster(someone should correct me if I’m wrong) is : with the key in the ignition, but the vehicle turned off, pump the brake pedal a few times(get it rock hard). Then start the forty while maintaining the rock hard brake pedal pressure. When the booster receives vacuum it should allow the brake pedal to depress. If the vehicle is started and the brake pedal does not move, then it could very well be a failed booster. Easy fix and there are many options to replace with, just a PITA to bolt it up.
If the booster has failed, you’ll also want to address the reason why it failed. Your master cylinder could be leaking brake fluid into the booster, causing the diaphragm to fail.
Good luck
Brake booster test at the bottom of this SOR page. Land Cruiser Brake Booster, Check Valve and Hose 7/70-1/98
My recent experience was that a failing booster had no connection to how many times I had to push the pedal, just how hard. Smarter guys can correct me if that's not always the case....
I've got a stock 1974 booster and master. I added mini truck birfs and 60 series disk brakes. I have no issues with my setup.
My recent experience was that a failing booster had no connection to how many times I had to push the pedal, just how hard. Smarter guys can correct me if that's not always the case....
I've got a stock 1974 booster and master. I added mini truck birfs and 60 series disk brakes. I have no issues with my setup.