TOYOBD1 Misc Data (1 Viewer)

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Is there anyone that has a TOYOBD1 that can confirm what info you get for MISC Data? I talked with Jean-Francois and he said that when the TE1 / +E1 remains on it is because self-diagnostic was not successful. I have pulled the EFI relay to reset everything and am still getting this.

Just wanted to make sure that it is an actual issue and not a false / positive.

1584814105002.png
 
Why tps is open? Why 0 rpm? Put VAF in voltage settings, in my idea INJ too high, also it would be great to see OX voltage
 
Engine was off and I must have had my foot on the gas a little in that screenshot. I swapped my older ECU in as I could not get the codes to clear and TE1 / +E1 went away, so definitely something up with that.
 
Why tps is open? Why 0 rpm? Put VAF in voltage settings, in my idea INJ too high, also it would be great to see OX voltage

So, it looks like when you turn the engine off the TPS reads 1.2 for some reason. Here is a screenshot from idle. Not sure how to get it to show the O2 voltage.

1584899602617.png
 
Looks good for me, according VAF voltage I can say here is no vacuum leak, while flap inside VAF moves as air pushes it it making less voltage.
Example normal operation
650 rpm - VAF 2.10v-2.25v (all air passing inside VAF and moves the flap)

Vacuum leak (unaccounted air bypassing VAF flap)
650rpm - VAF 2.40v - 2.50v (or less) depends how is big vacleak and untill ECU can compensate extra air leaking with closing step idle control valve to stabilize idle speed.

Here is little thing on thottle body called "throttle opener" so when the engine is working, it applying vacuum to the throttle opener in turn throttle opener moves the door inside the throttle body and turns the throttle sensor to 0v%.
Therefore, when the engine is turned off, the entire thottle damper mechanism is relaxed and moves the TPS sensor slightly to the open position.

Only one suspect is low RPM speed. Also would be good to see steps for IAC. Because FSM only mention steps not a %

Here is part from FSM


sorry for my bad english, with all respect
 

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@Vasiliy Spasibo!

It does not look like TOYOBD1 can do steps vs % for IAC. And the lower RPM I am guessing is because I was in Drive instead of Park. It does idle right at 650-700 in Park / Neutral.
 
What options do you have turned on in the application menu? I have carputer mode, communication heartbeat, and allow corrupt data acquisition turned off. I don’t recall where but I thought I read something about turning these off unless you were diagnosing a specific issue.

30CE9917-E728-4C00-96BE-965D50C36F23.jpeg
 
Same as you minus the backlight.

1585157241137.png
 
What’s the difference in the old ecu you swapped in? I had a bad ecu code flash up once on mine but it hasn’t come up again. After that I had to replace the battery in the phone and reinstall and set it up again I haven’t had any issues since. I don’t know if this has anything to do with your problem but I had connection issues when the engine bay would get hot so I made an extension and put the unit in the cab and it works flawlessly now.
 
What’s the difference in the old ecu you swapped in? I had a bad ecu code flash up once on mine but it hasn’t come up again. After that I had to replace the battery in the phone and reinstall and set it up again I haven’t had any issues since. I don’t know if this has anything to do with your problem but I had connection issues when the engine bay would get hot so I made an extension and put the unit in the cab and it works flawlessly now.

The early 93 ECU's apparently are known to just die outright and randomly. Mine did not have a problem or throw codes, but in my attempt to figure out WTF was going on I found a newer ECU at a reasonable price.
 
The early 93 ECU's apparently are known to just die outright and randomly. Mine did not have a problem or throw codes, but in my attempt to figure out WTF was going on I found a newer ECU at a reasonable price.
Gotcha. I have a 93 but I think
My ecu was replaced under warranty. Years ago. It was on the dealer service records for my truck.
 
I am not sure what all changes were made, but I recall someone said the shift points were adjusted in the newer ECU's. I actually prefer the original ECU's shifting to the newer one.

The original PN is 89661-60170 and the newer one is 89661-60221. Pretty easy to tell when you have if you pull the glove box.
 
Here’s mine. Still trying to interpret the data. Any wrong or sticks out as unusual?

0255EFA1-A78C-45CC-ABFB-95A714321D1B.jpeg
 
Coolant temp seems a little low and your TE1 / +E1 is also tripped. If yours is a '94 it should have the newer ECU, so wonder if that is just expected.

What does your VAF read at idle and warmed up?
 
The coolant temp has normally been between 184-187F while driving. It hits 191F while idle at a stop light. It's still cool in Vegas, so we'll see what happens during the summertime. The truck is a '94. I'll post idle VAF tomorrow. Thanks.
 
The coolant temp has normally been between 184-187F while driving. It hits 191F while idle at a stop light. It's still cool in Vegas, so we'll see what happens during the summertime. The truck is a '94. I'll post idle VAF tomorrow. Thanks.

Here is the idle info...

77EA1813-088A-4097-8B8E-44A1B340F34E.jpeg
 
Here is the detailed TE1 tile.

B15830A9-D66F-4440-85A2-BE28F8C7B305.jpeg
 

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