Towing with the LX700h OT - Toyota apologists move along (10 Viewers)

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I will go as far as saying I like the 7 pin is hidden out of the way. I really do not see an issue with it.
See, that's also useful advice. Now I know some people find the location of the connector inconvenient, whereas others find it just fine, so it's probably something you can live with.

I like it when real world advice is given. At the very least, it gives you stuff to look out for and decide for yourself how much you care. Unfortunately, you won't find that from the little kid trying to puff up his chest and desperately yelling at everyone to pay attention to him.
 
No horse in this race, but I'm keen on hearing about the 300-series tow performance. As one that tows on the upper end and past 200-series spec'd capacities, there might be some things that can improve the experience. For reference, I tow a 28' Airstream weighing in at 8k lbs loaded and 1200lb tongue. The 200-series has an equivalent 112.2" wheelbase which I originally thought to be short and a liability, but there's factors that can be controlled that make it a non-issue for even heavier/longer trailers.

  • The 200-series similarly does not have a tow/haul mode. I use ECT power and sport mode but it does not have sufficient compensation logic so I rely completely on manual sport mode. Though I don't mind as I also drive manual vehicles and prefer manual control where I can anticipate grades and conditions and not just respond. I do wonder how Tundra's fare? And if the 300-series in sport or sport+ may help/not help
  • Towing on the upper end, I'd highly recommend bumping tire pressure up by 5-10 lbs even if stock pressures are sufficient for load handling. Adding more pressure especially on the rear axle that is bearing more weight. This is always good for stability, tire wear, and mpg. I've run so many combinations of wheels and tires, and again, it's always helpful.
  • One of the critical dimensions to any bumper pull, especially on 112.2" wheelbase, is to reduce the amount of hitch/ball overhang beyond the rear axle. Even 1" extra of cantilever makes a difference, and has the equivalent impact of having 2" less wheelbase for stability and sway control. It will also reduce potential for porposing greatly. Wheelbase is a simplification and it's really about the ratio of wheelbase to rear overhang, which is about 2:1. It's also why 5th wheels are the most stable as they have zero effective overhang. Said another way, keep the ball literally as close and tight to the rear bumper as possible, potentially by modifying the hitch so it can be inserted fully either cutting and/or drilling a new hitch pin position. I'd be interested in a pic of @Canyonero hitch looks like.
 
I don’t have it handy but the owners manual actually has the dimension from the rear axle to the hitch face.
 
This is really helpful, thanks for posting.

I will evaluate that part of the setup (proximity of the ball to the axle) and post a picture next week as I prepare for COTR.

I do think adding 5 psi above OEM recommended is a good idea, the OEM LX700h OT tires run 33psi and while I’m not sure what the load range is on them, they compress quite a bit.
Yeah I am I suspecting the oem toyos are just too soft. I bet the towing experience will be worlds improved with LT tires.
 
33psi isn’t great towing. I know this from having F150s.

Maybe go up to 5psi under max in the fronts and 2psi under max in the rear.

You also need a WD hitch if over 500lbs I believe?
 
I don’t have it handy but the owners manual actually has the dimension from the rear axle to the hitch face.
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200 Series for comparison. Marginal difference.

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A few thoughts/questions for the OP -

Does your hitch have an anti-sway function. I usually think of those side sway damping things as a bandaid for poor trailer dynamics, but I did notice a significant benefit when towing a full size box with my 4Runner. Travel trailers are about the worst trailer you can get - high polar moment, high side windage, etc. Towing with a midsize SUV isn't an ideal match. I've never used or felt like I needed that sway control on full size trucks with the same trailer, but it really does help on short wheel base tow vehicles like the LX.

Not much help on transmission tuning. It is unfortunate that it doesn't have a tow setting because the software for that should already be 95% complete on the Sequoia. May even be just a copy and paste of the code over to the LX. It might be worth a look at a Sequoia to see if that's a better vehicle for you if you're towing a lot. I have not towed with a 3rd gen Sequoia - but reviews seem to be generally positive and it has most of the features you're wanting.

Also question about the exhaust trailer plug location - doesn't the hybrid on the LX mean that the engine should be shut off when it's sitting in Park? Is the engine running when you're down trying to plug it in? One reason I don't love the location underneath is that I really like the Curt Echo brake controller - I have one and use it for all of my trailers including use it instead of the OEM controller in my Tundra because it works better. The downward angle of the underneath plug tends to be prone to the Echo device falling out if you don't make sure to strap the plug lid in place to make sure the retainer clip keeps it plugged in. I also found in my 4R with similar location that I occasionally needed a small jumper to extend the trailer plug to reach.
 
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Never really had a problem towing with mine. Put it in sport plus and manually shift on grades. Power is excellent and everything feels very stable. A factory brake controller would’ve been nice but I fixed that with a red arc.
 
An update; I'm seeing that a 7pin trailer connector disables adaptive cruise, but standard cruise control should be available. I have not personally confirmed this.
 
I agree with the OP on the towing experience. It seems to be low priority to Mr T for some reason. Worldwide, nobody tows like we do in the US, for recreational towing at least. Much like the absence of the 70 series here, Toyota seems to be more interested in selling vehicles that cover most of the US market, rather than all of it. The domestics have the situation to have to cover all of it. With TNGA, the choice is worse because the same platform covers so many trucks (i.e. like why the Tacoma looks like a Chevy 1500 with less interior volume). I now have a RAM 3500 that sits unused as much as I can possibly let it because I would rather drive my Cruisers, but I have to have it to tow like a boss, which it does.
A dedicated effort towards the N.A. market with USA style recreational towing in mind would be incredible. The new chassis is very robust, it just needs the attention to towing from and engineering perspective, and the little towing specific accessories. For the price tag, I think that is a fair ask.

P.S. If only the Hino division sold a 1 ton pickup- but that's a whole different conversation.
 
A few thoughts/questions for the OP -

Does your hitch have an anti-sway function. I usually think of those side sway damping things as a bandaid for poor trailer dynamics, but I did notice a significant benefit when towing a full size box with my 4Runner. Travel trailers are about the worst trailer you can get - high polar moment, high side windage, etc. Towing with a midsize SUV isn't an ideal match. I've never used or felt like I needed that sway control on full size trucks with the same trailer, but it really does help on short wheel base tow vehicles like the LX.

Not much help on transmission tuning. It is unfortunate that it doesn't have a tow setting because the software for that should already be 95% complete on the Sequoia. May even be just a copy and paste of the code over to the LX. It might be worth a look at a Sequoia to see if that's a better vehicle for you if you're towing a lot. I have not towed with a 3rd gen Sequoia - but reviews seem to be generally positive and it has most of the features you're wanting.

Also question about the exhaust trailer plug location - doesn't the hybrid on the LX mean that the engine should be shut off when it's sitting in Park? Is the engine running when you're down trying to plug it in? One reason I don't love the location underneath is that I really like the Curt Echo brake controller - I have one and use it for all of my trailers including use it instead of the OEM controller in my Tundra because it works better. The downward angle of the underneath plug tends to be prone to the Echo device falling out if you don't make sure to strap the plug lid in place to make sure the retainer clip keeps it plugged in. I also found in my 4R with similar location that I occasionally needed a small jumper to extend the trailer plug to reach.

Thanks for the great imo @Oakleyguy and yes I have this WDH pictured below.

Totally agree that towing heavy with any midsize SUV isn’t ideal, but I do still feel that Toyota completely phoned it in here.

Sequoia is not a fit for me, unfortunately, as I wheel on the ragged edge of capability. The LX is fantastic in that regard.

The engine kicks on when it feels like it, depending on conditions, so hooking up the trailer is a roll of the dice as to whether ICE is running.

I’m going to try: -Ball closer to the hitch receiver, -Tires 5psi over OEM (so 38 psi). -Crank WDH a little higher.

Those changes alone will make it tolerable, but they won’t fix the absence of cruise control, any tow/haul transmission mapping (ironically when you’re in cruise without a trailer the transmission reacts proactively to maintain speed).

 
An update; I'm seeing that a 7pin trailer connector disables adaptive cruise, but standard cruise control should be available. I have not personally confirmed this.

I actually tried that. Maybe I wasn’t doing it right, but that was my thought— “dumb cruise” would still work. No dice.
 
I actually tried that. Maybe I wasn’t doing it right, but that was my thought— “dumb cruise” would still work. No dice.
I believe the reason why ACC gets turn off with a 7pin is bcus lane keep assist might jerk the trailer around and could be dangerous?
 
I believe the reason why ACC gets turn off with a 7pin is bcus lane keep assist might jerk the trailer around and could be dangerous?

I’m sure there were lawyers in a room somewhere drawing red lines through anything and everything that presented even a modicum of risk.

“Cruise control?” “Straight to jail.”

https://g.co/kgs/ZETtNaa

Toyota is mostly run by the bean counters, and I can’t fault them for that.

I’ve always said Toyota is not in the car business, they are in the money making business.

Cars are just a means to that end. Highlanders, RAV4s, Camrys and corollas are what help th print money.

When those buyers get old they buy an RX350.

The LX OT exists only because the platform has been developed elsewhere (minimal R&D) and so they can add some cachet to the brand with a halo rig.

They aren’t going to sell many, so there’s not a business case to improve it much beyond what we get.
 
I know Ford Blue Cruise doesn’t work with a trailer attached. Not to sure about regular ACC.

You really aren’t supposed to tow with cruise control as it shifts too much. Adding wear and tear, and heat etc.

And tow haul mode is most useful in the mountains and in trucks with exhaust brakes.
 

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