Towing my Jeep with my 2016 Land Cruiser (1 Viewer)

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Flat towing has many advantages.
It takes 30 seconds to disconnect and max 2 minutes to hook up.
After you disconnect you don’t have a trailer to stow.
Much lower Center of Gravity.
Unless the suspension on your Jeep is rock hard or beat to hell it will tow much smoother than any trailer.
No tongue weight on the land cruiser, the Jeep supports its own weight.
Jeep + tow bar is going to weigh much less than Jeep + car hauler trailer.
Don’t have to rent/return a uhaul, or stow a trailer on your property when not in use. Just a tow bar which you can tuck away anywhere.
Properly setup brake system on a flat tow vehicle is amazing as it uses the vehicles brakes.
(My 40ft RV will stop quicker WITH my 200 towed behind it then without)

Check out the ready brute elite tow bar. If you are willing to drill a 3/8” hole in your jeeps floorboards you can add surge brakes to your Jeep. Guessing the people claiming flat tow is sketchy simply haven’t done it. Most vehicles have better suspension than just about any trailer and tow very very smooth.

Surge brakes are generally inferior to an electric trailer brake setup when talking trailers, (mechanical, no hydraulic pump)but in this instance the surge brake is just actuating the brake pedal in your Jeep. I tow with my vehicle on so I have full hydraulic assist just as you would driving the Jeep.

The big disadvantage has already been covered. You can’t back up. But you can quickly disconnect and if you get your “trailer” into a bad spot you simply start it up and drive it out.

either is a fine solution, and honestly the tow bar/tow plate/install/wiring lights isn’t going to save you much money vs Uhaul rentals or a used craigslist carhauler but I much prefer the tow bar to a trailer. I own several trailers including a car hauler but there is a reason I went through the initial headache of flat towing my 200 series. (Headache simply because I couldn’t find anyone who had actually flat towed a 200 before)
 
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Flat towing has many advantages.
It takes 30 seconds to disconnect and max 2 minutes to hook up.
After you disconnect you don’t have a trailer to stow.
Much lower Center of Gravity.
Unless the suspension on your Jeep is rock hard or beat to hell it will tow much smoother than any trailer.
No tongue weight on the land cruiser, the Jeep supports its own weight.
Jeep + tow bar is going to weigh much less than Jeep + car hauler trailer.
Don’t have to rent/return a uhaul, or stow a trailer on your property when not in use. Just a tow bar which you can tuck away anywhere.
Properly setup brake system on a flat tow vehicle is amazing as it uses the vehicles brakes.
(My 40ft RV will stop quicker WITH my 200 towed behind it then without)

Check out the ready brute elite tow bar. If you are willing to drill a 3/8” hole in your jeeps floorboards you can add surge brakes to your Jeep. Guessing the people claiming flat tow is sketchy simply haven’t done it. Most vehicles have better suspension than just about any trailer and tow very very smooth.

Surge brakes are generally inferior to an electric trailer brake setup when talking trailers, (mechanical, no hydraulic pump)but in this instance the surge brake is just actuating the brake pedal in your Jeep. I tow with my vehicle on so I have full hydraulic assist just as you would driving the Jeep.

The big disadvantage has already been covered. You can’t back up. But you can quickly disconnect and if you get your “trailer” into a bad spot you simply start it up and drive it out.

either is a fine solution, and honestly the tow bar/tow plate/install/wiring lights isn’t going to save you much money vs Uhaul rentals or a used craigslist carhauler but I much prefer the tow bar to a trailer. I own several trailers including a car hauler but there is a reason I went through the initial headache of flat towing my 200 series. (Headache simply because I couldn’t find anyone who had actually flat towed a 200 before)

There are a couple points to think about that make flat towing a Jeep behind a 200 different then flat towing with an RV. The 200 wheel base isn't as long as an RV and not as heavy so it will be affected more easily by the sway or wandering from a Jeep being flat towed from behind. If you're on roads that curve back and forth you might have the Jeep try and push thru the turns.
Biggest thing I feel would make flat towing sketch is if the Jeep has a real soft suspension the amount of lean and sway could lead to a bad ending or an uncomfortable tow compared to having it strapped down on a trailer and compressing the suspension so the Jeep doesn't lean and sway as much.

I am basing the flat towing information from what I have learned from guys in TLCA chapters around me that have done both and explained to me what to expect.
 
There are a couple points to think about that make flat towing a Jeep behind a 200 different then flat towing with an RV. The 200 wheel base isn't as long as an RV and not as heavy so it will be affected more easily by the sway or wandering from a Jeep being flat towed from behind. If you're on roads that curve back and forth you might have the Jeep try and push thru the turns.
Biggest thing I feel would make flat towing sketch is if the Jeep has a real soft suspension the amount of lean and sway could lead to a bad ending or an uncomfortable tow compared to having it strapped down on a trailer and compressing the suspension so the Jeep doesn't lean and sway as much.

I am basing the flat towing information from what I have learned from guys in TLCA chapters around me that have done both and explained to me what to expect.

I suppose if you are hustling hard through the canyons or something this might be a factor. I've towed the 200 with a 2019 Range Rover as well as the RV and had no issues of any sort and I did hustle it pretty good through some windy roads. I'd take it over the 200 on a trailer any day, BUT the 200 has great road manners.

If your JEEP sucks on the road (Tracking poorly, excessive sway, etc) it's going to maintain all those bad habits being flat towed vs driven so definitely take that into account. Your vehicle dynamics being flat towed are similar to the vehicles dynamics being driven so if you're thinking about your route and saying "Oh Hellll No! My Jeep would flip over or I'd be driving 20MPH the whole way" then definitely put it on a trailer. If you wouldn't hesitate to drive it down the same route and at the same speeds you intend to tow it, take a look at flat towing. It's definitely convenient, but not for every vehicle. Sitting here in Moab watching vehicles roll by many of these rock buggies on 40+ inch tires I certainly would NEVER consider flat towing.
 
I don't know if this is a consideration of yours, but one nice thing about a trailer is if you damage your other vehicle you can tow it home. This is a lesson I learned from racing cars - a tow dolly is a swell solution until you wad your car up and it isn't drivable.
 
Thread update: after pricing uhaul trailers I decided to just drive the jeep to TN while my wife drove the LC. It took forever and was super uncomfortable...never doing that again.

I have a trip to Moab planned for this summer so I went ahead and bought a trailer. Check it out! I will post some questions in the next reply. Thanks I’m advance to anyone who can help me figure this out.

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It is an 18’ trailer with 3500lb dexter axles with brakes on both axles. Came with a tongue box, 4 ratchet straps, and spare tire with mount. The guy I bought it from had bought it a few months ago and only used it once. The tires had zero wear and even had the little nubs on them new tire have. I got a killer deal and can’t wait for my Moab trip. I also installed the red arc v3 brake controller and was surprised with how simple installation and setup was.

What I am trying to figure out now is how much I can safely carry in the vehicle while towing my jeep. My jeep weighs 4693lbs with a little over half a tank of gas. My 240lb self and a 300 or so lb friend will be driving to Moab while our families fly up. Trying to understand these tags I am not sure how much more weight can go in the vehicle while towing.

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Reading the trailer tag I could add another 267lbs of weight to the trailer before it is considered at capacity (4960-4693=267). I would count the spare tire, spare mount, and tongue box as part of that remaining 267lbs since I don’t know if the tag includes them.

how does towing this impact how much I can load in the vehicle?

I am aware to have the transmission in s6 when towing and so far have not exceeded 65mph with the trailer on. If the road is flat and I can see way far ahead, can I drive faster or does that hurt the transmission? Anything special I should be doing or looking out for when towing up and down mountain roads with significant elevation changes?
 
Looking good with that setup there!

- Sounds like you'll be fine on weight. I wouldn't sweat the minor lbs and this load is definitely within the capability of the trailer and cruiser.
- Safe towing suggests less than 65, but the reality is you'll be able to cruise faster than that based on conditions. I regularly, depending on overall flow of traffic, will go 70-75 with my larger travel trailer. If it feels stable, then it is. If it's not, back off. If it's windy, hilly, any of that, drive within your comfort level and leave distance in front of your car.
- Car carriers are easier to tow as they don't have much frontal and side area for winds, gusts, and passing vehicles. S6 should be fine, but you may even be able grab S7 at speed if it doesn't feel like it's bogging. Don't hesitate to go down to S3/S4 as grades dictate, and it's better to climb with RPM than grunting torque. Higher engine speeds (over 5k are just fine!) are better in that combustion heat/pressure is less, with more fluid circulating in the engine and transmission. Won't hurt a thing either way and the cruiser has deep capability and reserves.
- Don't be afraid of tongue weight, and it is necessary for more stable towing. Load engine forward. Less tongue weight is actually a huge liability to sway.
- It can help to air up the tires. Trailer if you're at max GVWR should be at the tagged tire pressure. Also may want to air up the cruisers tires 2-4 PSI above what's needed (particularly rear tires) as that can help with stability.
- Brake gain - the brake pedal should take about the same level of effort to stop with the trailer on. If it feels like the trailer is pushing on the cruiser, turn up the gain. Trailer brakes stop the trailer, tow vehicle brakes stop the two vehicle.
- Use engine braking like it's going out of style when going downhill. That has unlimited braking capacity vs caliper brakes that can overheat. Don't be afraid to downshift and use major RPM (5k+ is okay!), more rpm more engine braking, just like power.

Good luck!
 
So far I have only towed with it empty. So far leaving the red arc knob at 4 feels good. I will mess around with it when I try it loaded with the jeep
 
Reading the trailer tag I could add another 267lbs of weight to the trailer before it is considered at capacity (4960-4693=267). I would count the spare tire, spare mount, and tongue box as part of that remaining 267lbs since I don’t know if the tag includes them.

how does towing this impact how much I can load in the vehicle?

I am aware to have the transmission in s6 when towing and so far have not exceeded 65mph with the trailer on. If the road is flat and I can see way far ahead, can I drive faster or does that hurt the transmission? Anything special I should be doing or looking out for when towing up and down mountain roads with significant elevation changes?
Plan on <12 mpg, and much lower if you are going >65 mph, could be as low as 8 mpg.
 
Load wise you'll be fine, speed wise check what the speed rating is on your trailer tires. The 200 will have no problem hauler at fast speeds, you'll just lose some mpg. I pull a similar set up and I have my towpro between 4-5 and seems just perfect. Depending on how your suspension setup is on your TJ, might be worth getting a couple extra straps to compress the suspension down as well so you don't have it rocking the trailer.
 
Great idea! I currently have 4 straps. My plan was to tie the axles down to the trailer tie down points (two per axle). Might be a good idea to get a few more to compress the suspension by pulling down on the front and rear bumper. My tj has a 6” long arm lift and quite a bit of suspension travel
 
Not sure if it is applicable to your situation, but I used to trailer my race cars. I used tire straps that went through holes in the rims and they had metal hoops that you attach to one end of a heavy duty ratchet strap (the other end went to tie down hoops on the trailer). This firmly ties down the wheels, and lets the suspension do its thing. I typically had the front straps straight and the rear straps in a "X" pattern. Mac's TieDowns is a great place to get high quality straps and accessories.
 
Great idea! I currently have 4 straps. My plan was to tie the axles down to the trailer tie down points (two per axle). Might be a good idea to get a few more to compress the suspension by pulling down on the front and rear bumper. My tj has a 6” long arm lift and quite a bit of suspension travel
Here's a picture of what I typically do. 2 axle straps on each axle then straps compressing from the sliders. My logic is it also gives me extra tie-down points for the sides just in case
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One more question. Do I need to use a weight distribution hitch? Trailer with jeep weighs about 6900 lbs.
Probably. Depends on the tongue weight.
 
One more question. Do I need to use a weight distribution hitch? Trailer with jeep weighs about 6900 lbs.
Are you using a drop hitch in order to keep your car trailer flat, or are you coming straight out of the hitch with no drop?
 
Are you using a drop hitch in order to keep your car trailer flat, or are you coming straight out of the hitch with no drop?
Because I am lifted on 34’s I ended up needing about an 8” drop hitch to get my ball height where it needed to be.

I also ended up using a weight distribution hitch with sway control and it towed fine on my cross country trip. I got 10mpg which sucked, but it did fine.
 
I'm at stock height with stock tires and towing my Aluma trailer later this month. Not having towed with a 200 yet, trying to figure out if a drop hitch is needed when accounting for tongue weight and rear squat without airbags. Unfortunately, the 200 is 1,000 miles from me and I won't have the benefit of testing, taking some measurements, and then selecting the correct ball mount and drop.
 

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