I was wondering if anyone would know how to tow a fj40 with a tow bar, such as gear or not in gear, transfer case in nuetral etc. I would like to tow my rig behind a suburban, but am lost as to how to do it.
I have towed mine on several twisty mountain roads in Colorado both paved and rough gravel roads. I have also towed mine across the country to where I live now in Wisconsin. I pull the rear driveshaft and unlock the hubs, I also put everything in neutral eventhough there is no connection with the aforementioned. I also swap out my 36 Tsl's for a worn set of 31" radials. One problem I did run into was after I lifted it, it would no longer follow my truck when turning. It would turn itself the opposite direction and lock that way. The solution is NOT to tie the steering wheel like some people say. The way to fix it is add more caster. The factory spec is 1degree positive caster which is ok if everything is stock and tight. Any modifications to the suspension at all (including lift shackels, even in the rear ) can send your caster negitive which is great for making it steer easier but harder to return to center. You want at least the factory spec for flat towing so it will track properly down the road. I solved my problem by adding a 2.5 degree shim to the frontend to make sure I had enough caster. I have never had a problem since. You can get the shims at any good offroad shop for around 15 bucks. I think you can get the cool steel ones from poison spider customs that weld on for more but if you don't have access to an alignment rack play around with the cheap aluminum ones till you find what works. Oh yeah I tow it with a long bed extended cab Dodge so the wheel base and weight of my truck help with not getting pushed around like the smaller vehicles have mentioned. Remender it is not a jeep. They are quite a bit heavier. Good luck . Tom
Last Christmas while snow skiing in Santa Fe, New Mexico,I bought a 1974 FJ40.
I went to the local RV dealer bought a $99 OX tow bar, hooked it on the stock front bumper and haulled it back to East Texas behind my Chevy 2500 4x4 truck going about 70 to 75 mph with NO problems.
I still flat tow my 40 evertime we go wheeling. About 250 to 300 miles one way.
I put the trany and transfer in "N" and set the Warn hubs on FREE.
Don't tie the steering wheel....it needs to be able to turn and don't drop
the drive shafts...no need.
Just this weekend I bought Skysharks, from IH8MUD, 1973 FJ40.
I rented a 2 wheel car dolly and drove to NW Kansas to pick it up.
This worked fine too, but I prefer flat towing. Less bounce and more stable.
I pulled it home to East Texas, with a 2006 GMC Canyon. It pulled that 40
like no bodys business! The only problem I did have is that the top flew off going down I-70. It didn't have a single bolt it. Skyshark what the hell were you thinking?
Want to Flat tow our 78 FJ40 safely at between 55 to 70 MPH behind our rv (22ft coach on dually E350 v-10 Ford chassis). Was told by off road shop, FJ40 4-speed doesn't have a true netural and to tow, whitout dropping rear drive shaft, 4-speed would require an approx. $2,000 modification. However, I see, on this website, some of you are towing without dropping drive shift and assume without modifying 4-speed. So remained confused. Please offer your advice. Thanks.
I prefer to drop the drive shaft. Less wear on the transmission. However I have towed mine without droping the the drive shaft, no problems, but I would not go much faster than 60mph. My cruiser does not like to go much faster than 60 on its own, and I don't care to push it while its being towed.
X3 on not tying the steering wheel. I learned that lesson the hard way last Sunday, when the car I was towing kept going straight while the towing vehicle was turning. It jack-knifed us right in the middle of an intersection, and now I have to fix my uncle's truck.
I've towed mine a number of times with a tow bar after breakage in the Cascades. It's heavy and doesn't corner all that well, but I've had no problems doing it. I don't do anything special, besides putting the transmission in neutral and ensuring that the key is in the igntion so the steering column lock is free. I take my time and plan ahead, because that's a lot of weight back there.
Pull the rear drive shaft. It only takes a few minutes and can aviod a nasty outcome.
I was in the parking lot of a market in Moab a few years back, waiting for a friend to show up. There he was, going down the street in his motor home towing a 40. The rear driveshaft had seperated and was flapping around like a one bladed hilicopter. Heads were turning all along the street when they heard the noise. He saw me, waved, and smiled cruising along, not hearing the racket.
I witnessed another event when a fellow off roader pulled into camp with a hole blown into the side of his sm420 when the front shaft became engaged while towing. Either the transfer case shift lever became engaged due to bumps in the road or gear in the 40 bumped the tc lever. The result was bad.
I always pull the rear driveshaft when flat towing and check front hubs. You can go for years without an incident but then......
4 wheel hubs are great, then you don't have to drop the rear shaft. Other than that, you have to drop the rear drive shaft. Make sure the front tow bar is level. I have a tow bar on my FJ40, but use it more for front end protection with the ability to be towed off a trail or tow the rig if I choose. Tow bars are great for many applications.
Some time ago I think I read about flat towing with the transfer case in neutral and an issue with in adequate lubrication for the output shaft of the transfer case. Evidently the transfer case output shaft relies on 'splash lubrication' and if you tow with the transfer case in neutral there is no lubrication. Just saying....