Towing capacity

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Aug 20, 2010
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Mebane,NC
Does any one know how much you can tow, based on the chassis of the FJ 62. I am hoping to tow my rock crawler with it after the 6.0l/4l80e conversion is done. The trailer and cargo is a little less than 7000lbs and ARB says there bumper will handle it. My question is will the frame? I know in Australia they use them for heavy-duty work all the time. Does any one have real numbers or what they have done to increase those numbers?
Thanks
Michael
 
You might say this has been covered a wee bit here.
The brakes (assuming stock axles will remain) will be your most limiting factor by far. The frame would be one of the last things I'd worry about while towing 7k lbs.
 
I have a Class III hitch on mine, which is rated to 5000 lb here in the US. That is aftermarket, but installed "professionally". Typically install houses will not go over the rated capacity of the vehicle for liability reasons. That being said, I believe the suspension and brakes are the limiting components for towing loads. Modern SUV's have higher ratings than 7000 lb typically in the US market. Their frames do not appear that much stronger by observation, but I do not have the numbers. Strength is also a function of steel type used in the frame construction, which is impossible to judge by eye-ball. Landcruiser frames are flexible...

I would not hesitate to tow 7000 pounds with mine provided the following were met:
1. Heavy rear springs/overloads/air-bag helpers
2. Load distributing hitch
3. disc brake conversion in the rear to at least 3/4 ton rotors.
4. Trailer with braking system
5. Upgraded cooling system.

My family put a lot of miles on my 60 with the stock setup and a 5000 lb trailer. The 2F died after 140k, probably from being worked to death. It also would overheat in hot weather. My radiator has a new core in it and still is marginal for my 400M, so I am hesitant to tow with it.

Hopefully someone can give you actual numbers like you requested... Above all else, be safe!
 
You might say this has been covered a wee bit here.
The brakes (assuming stock axles will remain) will be your most limiting factor by far. The frame would be one of the last things I'd worry about while towing 7k lbs.

For sure. You could probably pull a Boeing 747 with a Land Cruiser...if you had the time. Getting it to stop though, that's the problem.
 
When moving my stuff from Monterey to San Diego, I made one trip pulling a double axle UHAUL with a surge brake. My engine ('99 5.7 Vortec) and transmission handled the load perfectly and had no cooling problems. I have a weight ticket showing 10,490 lb. gross (truck/trailer/load), and the brakes were taxed big time. Surge brakes really helped keep everything under control, but I was granny driving. I'll upgrade the brakes before committing the thing to pull a lot of weight again.
 
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I would not hesitate to tow 7000 pounds with mine provided the following were met:
1. Heavy rear springs/overloads/air-bag helpers
2. Load distributing hitch
3. disc brake conversion in the rear to at least 3/4 ton rotors.
4. Trailer with braking system
5. Upgraded cooling system.

Toyota says NO for a load distributing hitch.....3500# Towing rating, 350# tongue weight and 8000# max GVWR (trailer and wagon weight combined).

7000# is a lot to expect from the FJ6* chassis.....
 
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I'd be a little nervous at 7000 lb, that's twice the factory tow rating. As mentioned above, being able to stop is of primary concern. A transmission cooler is a must, and I'd even say you need an Extreme Valve Body giving you 3rd gear converter lock-up (unless you have an h55).
 
I'd be a little nervous at 7000 lb, that's twice the factory tow rating. As mentioned above, being able to stop is of primary concern. A transmission cooler is a must, and I'd even say you need an Extreme Valve Body giving you 3rd gear converter lock-up (unless you have an h55).

Hes swapping a 6.0/4l80e. That combo can pull 12-13k in a modern truck. As long as the trailer has brakes and you don't go overboard on the tongue weight I"m sure it would be fine. It wouldn't be legal but would work. There are a few guys with v8s on here towing their buggies with 60s.
 
i would upgrade the brakes and some air bags and I would head out. That is if your leaf springs are in good shape. Make sure the bumper is really braced and bolted good to the bumper. I would also make sure the trailer has brakes on both axles.
 
Toyota says NO for a load distributing hitch.....3500# Towing rating, 350# tongue weight and 8000# max GVWR (trailer and wagon weight combined).

7000# is a lot to expect from the FJ6* chassis.....

Interesting. We ran a load distributing hitch for years. I guess we've been doing things wrong for a long time. Yikes! The truck doesn't seem any worse off and it sure pulled that trailer well. I take back what I said about the "pros" not over-installing hitches. That was in the early 80's...

Got any theories as to why Toyota does not like that hitch system?
 
Must have been a senior moment. I read it as if the rock crawler had the conversion:doh: Never mind:o
 
Pulled my fj60 trugy 300 miles with my 5.3 powered 60 a few times. Air bags and trailer brakes made it doable. Even with the trailer brakes stoping was the problem. I ended up trading my trugy off partly because it didn't tow real well. Although I never whighed it I guess mine was 7 to8K Lb as well, plus campin gear.
 
Interesting. We ran a load distributing hitch for years. I guess we've been doing things wrong for a long time. Yikes! The truck doesn't seem any worse off and it sure pulled that trailer well. I take back what I said about the "pros" not over-installing hitches. That was in the early 80's...

Got any theories as to why Toyota does not like that hitch system?

I have no idea, but I have been looking at travel trailers to pull (small ones) and that is what the owners manual said. I'd like to use one though, just to dampen the trailer movement.
 
Toyota says NO for a load distributing hitch.....3500# Towing rating, 350# tongue weight and 8000# max GVWR (trailer and wagon weight combined).

7000# is a lot to expect from the FJ6* chassis.....

Oops.

I towed around 6000+ pounds on a class 5 hitch using a weight distributing system over a distance of 10,000 miles in an HJ60 and 5 speed.

Braking will be the only issue and trailer brakes are a MUST. Other than that, and being slooow, the truck handled the weight just fine and wasn't pushed around at all.

I too wonder why Toyota says no to this. I never came across this info when I was researching it.
 
I have no idea, but I have been looking at travel trailers to pull (small ones) and that is what the owners manual said. I'd like to use one though, just to dampen the trailer movement.

It sure helped transfer weight to the front of the truck, improving balance and steering ability. There was no porpoising with that hitch setup, either. Our stock springs lasted for a long time, too.

The only thing I can think of is extra moment is transfered into the frame, and where the hitch attaches on a 60/62 the frame is not boxed. Therefore the cross section is slightly weaker (although resistance to bending is more a function of the size of the top and bottom chords of a beam and how far apart they are, not with how thick the web or sides are...)
 
It sure helped transfer weight to the front of the truck, improving balance and steering ability. There was no porpoising with that hitch setup, either. Our stock springs lasted for a long time, too.

The only thing I can think of is extra moment is transferred into the frame, and where the hitch attaches on a 60/62 the frame is not boxed. Therefore the cross section is slightly weaker (although resistance to bending is more a function of the size of the top and bottom chords of a beam and how far apart they are, not with how thick the web or sides are...)

I agree. I actually plan on using one for the small trailer I want to pull. And it will only be pulled for a half dozen trips before I purchase a pickup.
 
Thanks

Thanks for the input, guys.
the following things are in the works right now for the tow rig conversion

400hp Z06 LS1
4L80E tranny with heavy duty external cooler as well as the one in the custom aluminum radiator
custom width dana 60 with disc brakes for the rear
prodigy brake controller
rear air bags
weight distributing hitch
the FJ already has ome heavy duty springs on it front and rear and ARB lockers
I also took out the interior and put dynamat and rv aluminum backed jute pad throughout the entire Cruiser and I have a set of ambulance doors on the way from down under. I also retro fitted new gauges in the dash so every thing would work with the computer on the LS1 and still look stock
here are a few pics
thanks again for the input
IMAG0292.jpg
IMAG0314.jpg
 
IMO this is too much

I just pulled a 3000 lbs. trailer with a 550 lbs tube frame across town. My 60 is on 32's with stock gearing and there was a lot of shifting going on. It didn't like starting out on a slight hill either. It was hard to maintain 60 mph with air on in 4 th. gear. Stopping wasn't a real issue although I didn't try a panic stop. The trailer doesn't have brakes but the 60's are all new (pads, shoes, calipers, wheel cylinders, drums, etc.).

I would say if you plan to tow alot put a 5.3 out of a Ranier in it!
P1010470.jpg
 
Thanks for the input, guys.
the following things are in the works right now for the tow rig conversion

400hp Z06 LS1
4L80E tranny with heavy duty external cooler as well as the one in the custom aluminum radiator
custom width dana 60 with disc brakes for the rear
prodigy brake controller
rear air bags
weight distributing hitch
the FJ already has ome heavy duty springs on it front and rear and ARB lockers
I also took out the interior and put dynamat and rv aluminum backed jute pad throughout the entire Cruiser and I have a set of ambulance doors on the way from down under. I also retro fitted new gauges in the dash so every thing would work with the computer on the LS1 and still look stock
here are a few pics
thanks again for the input


nice setup...but I think towing you are in 3/4 ton truck zone. I tow my FJ60 which weighs around 6K plus a trailer that weighs around 2.5 K. I tow with a 07 2500HD 6.0 pickup. The main reason I use a 3/4 ton truck is/are the brakes. While not very noticeable most of the time on flat ground..you get into some mountains (or at least the mountains) in NC/KY/WV /TN... brakes are everything. My trialer is a dual axle type, metal deck with electric brakes on both axles.

Went to harlan, KY a few months ago for a ride...from Kingsport TN over to Harlan, KY is fairly hilly... depending on how you get to harlan... climbing the hills is fun...around 50-60mph...the fun part is maintaing your speed on the downhill slope. My truck has the tow/haul mode which is great....if not for that it would be a real challenge to maintain your speed on the downhill slops (not going too fast). Then consider how you will get stopped. For me a 3/4 ton truck is the min requirement a one ton would be better.
 
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I just pulled a 3000 lbs. trailer with a 550 lbs tube frame across town. My 60 is on 32's with stock gearing and there was a lot of shifting going on. It didn't like starting out on a slight hill either. It was hard to maintain 60 mph with air on in 4 th. gear. Stopping wasn't a real issue although I didn't try a panic stop. The trailer doesn't have brakes but the 60's are all new (pads, shoes, calipers, wheel cylinders, drums, etc.).

I would say if you plan to tow alot put a 5.3 out of a Ranier in it!

looks like the bronco buggy is gettin closer to life !!! i wouldnt attempt to pull my car hauler trailer EMPTY with my 60. but i think my engine is weaker than yours is..
 

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