Towing an M3 with my LX470 (1 Viewer)

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Joined
May 4, 2015
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Location
Charleston, SC
Hey guys,

I'm headed down to Jacksonville, FL tomorrow to pick up my old e36 M3. Have a uhaul car carrier rented to tow it back. LX is a '99 with 293k miles on the clock now. Suspension is stock Land cruiser torsion bars and springs, with bilstein 4600s that have only about 30k miles on them.

Curb weight on the LX is about 5400 lbs give or take. M3 is 3200 pounds and uhaul car carrier is about 2200 pounds. So i'm towing the same weight as my truck. Uhaul wants the truck to weigh at least 80% of the towed load, so i definitely meet this spec.

Hitch carrier is factory and hitch is rated at 6000 lbs, so no worries here.

I've towed loads this heavy before with other vehicles, but not with the LX. Most I tow is my boat which is about 1500 lbs. I'm just a little nervous towing all this load. Any reason I should look for another vehicle to tow with? Uhaul wants 99 cents a mile to rent a truck (wtf?). So it saves me almost $700 to use my own vehicle.

I'll be towing the trailer from Charleston to Jacksonville empty and then pulling the M3 back. It's the low country so the biggest hill I'll see is a bridge.

Any tips pointers for this ride?

Thanks,
Eliot
 
I don't think you'll have a single issue whatsoever. I've pulled my 80 series behind my 100 series on my trailer a few times, and I've hauled my Z (2300lbs) and miscellaneous stuff I've bought dozens of times.

As far as tips, just make sure you follow good trailer protocol (tie the load down securely, make sure your tongue weight is right). If anything goes wrong, I doubt it will be due to the tow weight.
 
You will be fine mate, i towed my MKIV Supra using the same Uhaul trailer from Kentucky to VA, i was driving my Tundra 4.7 then, but very similar towing capacity...11 hour drive, up and down mountains. You have a flat road to drive on, it'll handle it no problem.

Ah how i miss that 1000hp beast :(

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You have good taste in cars. As stated by others I don't think you will have any issues at all, that's pretty light compared to what the 100 can really handle. I've towed another Land Cruiser on the same U-Haul trailer 8hrs from Albuquerque to Grand Junction. The steep San Juan passes put up a good fight but my 100 still handled without a hiccup. Just wished I had the 5spd at times.

You will be fine mate, i towed my MKIV Supra using the same Uhaul trailer from Kentucky to VA, i was driving my Tundra 4.7 then, but very similar towing capacity...11 hour drive, up and down mountains. You have a flat road to drive on, it'll handle it no problem.

Ah how i miss that 1000hp beast :(

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Ohhh....I like:)
 
After having used Uhaul trailers many times over the years and having a couple bad experiences. Its not that U-Haul has poor customer service, it is that when you break down, at times, they DO NOT HAVE ANY CUSTOMER SERVICE. I would check the following on the trailer:

1- Tires: I would make sure the tires are not dry, often times they look fine but are old and dry. They don't see enough miles to wear down the tread sometimes. So you will have a six year+ old tire with good tread, but super dry and dangerous cracking on the sides. I once had TWO flats in 50 miles on a UHaul trailer.

2- Check all of the lug nuts on the wheels yourself. ASK ME WHY.

3- Jack the trailer up and wiggle all the wheels vigorously to make sure the bearings are okay. AGAIN, JUST ASK.

Just remember one thing, UHaul customer service is nearly non existent. Even when you are broken down in one of their vehicles in the middle of the desert, they will try to make it seem like you helped them create a problem with their poorly maintained junk.

I love those E36 M3's. Never owned one, but when I had my 2004 GTO, I would sometimes swap with my friend who had a E36 lightweight version for a few days/hours at a time. We both had fun! (Edit- I have pics of these cars somewhere, looking now) That M3 is one reason why I bought my 335i a few years later. Good luck with your trip.
 
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My e36, but not an M car :(. I will probably be pulling mine with the 100 at some time.
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Make sure the trailer either has hydraulic brakes or you have a brake controller installed. Last time I used UHaul, they had hydraulic brakes on their trailers.
 
DO NOT USE OVERDRIVE. Your trans temps will go way too high. This is absolutely a must-do thing. Turn it off with the button on the shifter, and remember it turns back on when you stop and restart the truck, so you have to do it after every stop.

And have plenty of cash or room on your credit card, because the only thing that gets worse mileage that a towing 100 series is tan, has a .50 machine gun on top, and says 'US ARMY' on the side. :) I got 7-9 mpg towing my 5100 LB travel trailer from Orlando to Savannah this last weekend, almost all on flat road.

Other than that, you will have no problems towing that load. If you end up on the big 295 bridge in Jax, just be patient, use a light foot to keep it from downshifting (it doesn't help, just makes noise and no extra speed!), and you'll end out at about 50mph at the top.
 
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Love your choice in vehicles. I have a '95 M3 (built S52) and a '98 M3 Sedan with a Toyota 2JZ in it that I am also debating towing with my LX470! For now I am sticking with my 2500hd and a rented enclosed trailer...but debating getting rid of it as I don't use it near as often as I should. Interested to hear how your experience goes...

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I will 2nd the “disengage overdrive” comment. Gives the transmission some help. After I had my ‘95 yukon automatic transmission rebuilt, he suggested towing out of overdrive to help the transmission (I had 200k miles on it, so his suggestion was just general knowledge)
 
Since this has quickly turned into a BMW thread, why not fly down to FL and drive the e36 back? Only about 250 miles or so. That's what I did to get my M5. Flew to OH and drove her home in 8 hours. Best road trip ever.
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Alright we officially could care less about OP's towing capacity, thread jacked it and is posting pics of our past bimmers...did we all come from the same cars or something? lol

My first 335i, that i blew up...(blew turbos)

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Didnt' learn lesson, got the same car and tried again.

My tuned 335i 460whp/500 tq (stable this time, didn't blow up, just blew fuel pump) Sold it at a huge loss.

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My E46 M3 that i dearly miss, still looking to buy another clean one but all are beat up or in the junk yard

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DO NOT USE OVERDRIVE. Your trans temps will go way too high. This is absolutely a must-do thing.

I'm curious why folks often promote the non-use of 'overdrive'...claiming that the USE of overdrive is bad for your transmission?

I think what REALLY is at play...is that conditions exist whereby some combination of the towed load, engine output and cooling capacity don't play 'nice'. This assumes a properly working transmission in good condition.

Certainly....IF your vehicle's transmission is 'hunting' between overdrive and the next lowest gear, then you might as well just drop down to the lower gear and stay there. The constant shifting back and forth between gears causes unnecessary waste heat.

Likewise, 'Lugging' your engine will cause increased engine heat... so that should be avoided.

But generally speaking...when the torque converter is not locked up it produces more heat than when it does lock up (mechanical only coupling as when in overdrive). In theory...a lock up converter should run cooler (not hotter) when in lock up mode (read overdrive). Thus...the transmission (sans other influences) 'should' also run cooler.

BUT...in the 'real world' there ARE other influences. IF your cooling system is not in tip-top shape, your engine will run hotter than necessary. Hotter radiator temps mean less cooling for your transmission fluid (unless you have bypassed the radiator).

A poorly tuned/running engine can lack power that might otherwise let you cruise in overdrive. It's always wise when towing to try to keep your engine in its 'power band'...but changing road conditions often make that difficult. So....a little input from the driver is needed. IF more power is needed....shift to a lower gear BEFORE the engine loads up and the transmission makes the shift for you.

But anywhere I can....I use overdrive when towing. Neither my transmission or engine get overly hot.

I think the notion that you should ALWAYS dispense with overdrive as a maxim....is incorrect.
 
I'm curious why folks often promote the non-use of 'overdrive'...claiming that the USE of overdrive is bad for your transmission?

I think what REALLY is at play...is that conditions exist whereby some combination of the towed load, engine output and cooling capacity don't play 'nice'. This assumes a properly working transmission in good condition.

Certainly....IF your vehicle's transmission is 'hunting' between overdrive and the next lowest gear, then you might as well just drop down to the lower gear and stay there. The constant shifting back and forth between gears causes unnecessary waste heat.

Likewise, 'Lugging' your engine will cause increased engine heat... so that should be avoided.

But generally speaking...when the torque converter is not locked up it produces more heat than when it does lock up (mechanical only coupling as when in overdrive). In theory...a lock up converter should run cooler (not hotter) when in lock up mode (read overdrive). Thus...the transmission (sans other influences) 'should' also run cooler.

BUT...in the 'real world' there ARE other influences. IF your cooling system is not in tip-top shape, your engine will run hotter than necessary. Hotter radiator temps mean less cooling for your transmission fluid (unless you have bypassed the radiator).

A poorly tuned/running engine can lack power that might otherwise let you cruise in overdrive. It's always wise when towing to try to keep your engine in its 'power band'...but changing road conditions often make that difficult. So....a little input from the driver is needed. IF more power is needed....shift to a lower gear BEFORE the engine loads up and the transmission makes the shift for you.

But anywhere I can....I use overdrive when towing. Neither my transmission or engine get overly hot.

I think the notion that you should ALWAYS dispense with overdrive as a maxim....is incorrect.
I could have saved you the long post. With OD off, trans temp was 145-170 the whole trip. If I forgot and left it on, temp was 190 up to "oh s***, that is WAY to hot!" (220). You want to kill a trans with high temps tow with OD on.
 
I'm curious why folks often promote the non-use of 'overdrive'...claiming that the USE of overdrive is bad for your transmission?

I think what REALLY is at play...is that conditions exist whereby some combination of the towed load, engine output and cooling capacity don't play 'nice'. This assumes a properly working transmission in good condition.

Certainly....IF your vehicle's transmission is 'hunting' between overdrive and the next lowest gear, then you might as well just drop down to the lower gear and stay there. The constant shifting back and forth between gears causes unnecessary waste heat.

Likewise, 'Lugging' your engine will cause increased engine heat... so that should be avoided.

But generally speaking...when the torque converter is not locked up it produces more heat than when it does lock up (mechanical only coupling as when in overdrive). In theory...a lock up converter should run cooler (not hotter) when in lock up mode (read overdrive). Thus...the transmission (sans other influences) 'should' also run cooler.

BUT...in the 'real world' there ARE other influences. IF your cooling system is not in tip-top shape, your engine will run hotter than necessary. Hotter radiator temps mean less cooling for your transmission fluid (unless you have bypassed the radiator).

A poorly tuned/running engine can lack power that might otherwise let you cruise in overdrive. It's always wise when towing to try to keep your engine in its 'power band'...but changing road conditions often make that difficult. So....a little input from the driver is needed. IF more power is needed....shift to a lower gear BEFORE the engine loads up and the transmission makes the shift for you.

But anywhere I can....I use overdrive when towing. Neither my transmission or engine get overly hot.

I think the notion that you should ALWAYS dispense with overdrive as a maxim....is incorrect.
My trans is in perfect condition, with a fresh service, my cooling system is totally new end to end, and my engine is in perfect tune. So my tenmps should be a pretty good baseline. If someone's systems are not up to par they will have hotter temps.
 
I appreciate all the advice and suggestions. Unfortunately I didn't see the "DO NOT USE OVERDRIVE" because I towed the vehicle on Friday.

So yea I used Overdrive the whole way. Cooling system is brand new. Never had an issue, until I got home.

M3 was undriveable so I had to tug it off the trailer. I did this as soon as I got home after towing 5400 pounds for 5 hours. Transmission was definitely still hot. So the old lady jumped in the Lexus and we used a tow strap to pull the M3 off. Car came off, no issues. I jump back into the Lexus to turn it around and hook it back up to the trailer and as soon as I put it into reverse to back to the trailer, my A/T oil light came on, Check engine light came on, power steering went out, and my engine oil pressure dropped....weird. Shut the Lexus off for a few minutes and then turned it back on...everythings good, no dash lights, power steering works, everythings fine. Backed the remaining 2 foot and hooked the trailer up, then shut the Lexus off.

I let the Lexus cool off for 5 hours and then fired it back up to get the uhaul back. No issues towing the 2200 pound trailer back and Lexus ran fine.

ATF looks clean and has no burning smell to it. At this point I'm thinking my only course of action is to get a fluid exchange on all 15 quarts and then just ride it out...

What do you guys think?
 
I tow an Rpod 180 RV - about 3300lbs loaded.
Last time I towed I had Techstream monitoring the Transmission.
Temps stayed just under 140F whether I was in OD or not in OD.
Course I only run in OD on flat ground and switch it off before inclines.
Hoping I am not doing damage to my Transmission (4 speed version).

BTW, on my last RV tow to the beach, I used OD on flat ground there,
and OD off for the return trip.
Gasoline consumption was 11mpg when I used OD, and 9.5mpg when I did not use OD.

This works out to a 1.5mpg difference. On a 500mile round trip thats 7.2 gallons fuel difference.
 
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