Tow rope hook?

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gregnash

Anal Retentive Analyst
Joined
Nov 3, 2011
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Location
Carson City, NV
So we got our first major winter storm yesterday, dumped about 6" (which is alot for us at 4500') but the problem is that with this the temps pretty much instantly freeze everything within a few hours. Pulled a girl out of a drift that she slide back into while trying to make it up the hill by my house. When I went to hook my tow strap to the front of her truck I found no tow hook (she had an 80s toyota pickup 2wd).

We keep hearing how it is supposed to be a pretty gnarly winter so is there a hook that I can attach to the end of my tow strap (temporarily - like a carebiner (sp?) for climbing) for situations like this?
I feel this will not be my last time pulling people out of the snow.:cheers:
 
So we got our first major winter storm yesterday, dumped about 6" (which is alot for us at 4500') but the problem is that with this the temps pretty much instantly freeze everything within a few hours. Pulled a girl out of a drift that she slide back into while trying to make it up the hill by my house. When I went to hook my tow strap to the front of her truck I found no tow hook (she had an 80s toyota pickup 2wd).

We keep hearing how it is supposed to be a pretty gnarly winter so is there a hook that I can attach to the end of my tow strap (temporarily - like a carebiner (sp?) for climbing) for situations like this?
I feel this will not be my last time pulling people out of the snow.:cheers:

Yes - but attaching metal to the end of tow ropes or straps is typically a bad idea. If the metal object breaks, or your attachment point breaks, then the kinetic energy stored in your line can sling that metal hook back at you. No bueno.
 
Be really careful being a good Samaritan. Some people want all the help you can give them, be really clear that you are not responsible for damage to their vehicle as you are doing a 'favour' for them. You bend or break a bad attachment point, you don't want them going all crazy for repairs! Ask me how I know.....
 
True, but cant the same be said for a rope that has been knotted? I know the metal would have a lot more kinetic energy but the result would ultimately be the same.

Guess it might just be easier to get some good nylon rope for these situations?
 
Yes - but attaching metal to the end of tow ropes or straps is typically a bad idea. If the metal object breaks, or your attachment point breaks, then the kinetic energy stored in your line can sling that metal hook back at you. No bueno.

Perhaps you can clerify, if you are attaching a strap to a vehicle, you are attaching metal to it at some point, wether it's to a welded on recovery point or not. If you use a shackle instead, you are still attaching to metal. And actually, I kind of like dropping a strap with a hook with a catch on it on a permanently mounted ring or loop, then digging out shackels, at lest in this weather here where some of the other guys in the club are tugging half a dozen vehicles on their way to or from work at the moment it is much nicer.

My thought is that the metal hook/shackle etc. should have a higher breaking strength then the strap to avoid propelling steel at high velocities and instead have a strap slapping your cruiser.

Also, with the weather some of us are seeing this time of year, we may be willing to vouch for the strength of our recovery points, but they only protect the person we are towing, if someone else's attachment point breaks, we are the one on the wrong side of the strap at that point.

Southeast Overland, is there a hook that you would recommend for a recovery strap then? I've seen your work and trust you probably have a few resources up your sleeve in that department.
 
Now I think I need to clarify, I was not just attaching the strap to anything on the girls truck, rather it had recovery points (holes in a small section of frame that dropped below the bumper) but did not have a recover hook or shackle/d-ring like I was expecting. Basically, this was just a 2 1/2 hole in the frame (manufactured like that) that the strap would not go through.

If it really came down to it I would not tug them out without a proper attachment point.
 
True, but cant the same be said for a rope that has been knotted? I know the metal would have a lot more kinetic energy but the result would ultimately be the same.

Guess it might just be easier to get some good nylon rope for these situations?

Knots in rope degrade the rope's strength significantly if they aren't chosen and tied properly.

Best bet is to get a quality tow or snatch strap with loops seen on the end. Or a spliced recovery rope.
 
Now I think I need to clarify, I was not just attaching the strap to anything on the girls truck, rather it had recovery points (holes in a small section of frame that dropped below the bumper) but did not have a recover hook or shackle/d-ring like I was expecting. Basically, this was just a 2 1/2 hole in the frame (manufactured like that) that the strap would not go through.

If it really came down to it I would not tug them out without a proper attachment point.

There are recovery tools that tow truck drivers use to attach to holes in frames. Personally, if a vehicle is stuck, they don't have proper recovery points that I want to hook to, and no one's life is in jeopardy or no one is seriously hurt, then I'll make sure the people are OK and call a tow truck.
 
Perhaps you can clerify, if you are attaching a strap to a vehicle, you are attaching metal to it at some point, wether it's to a welded on recovery point or not. If you use a shackle instead, you are still attaching to metal. And actually, I kind of like dropping a strap with a hook with a catch on it on a permanently mounted ring or loop, then digging out shackels, at lest in this weather here where some of the other guys in the club are tugging half a dozen vehicles on their way to or from work at the moment it is much nicer.

My thought is that the metal hook/shackle etc. should have a higher breaking strength then the strap to avoid propelling steel at high velocities and instead have a strap slapping your cruiser.

Also, with the weather some of us are seeing this time of year, we may be willing to vouch for the strength of our recovery points, but they only protect the person we are towing, if someone else's attachment point breaks, we are the one on the wrong side of the strap at that point.

Southeast Overland, is there a hook that you would recommend for a recovery strap then? I've seen your work and trust you probably have a few resources up your sleeve in that department.

I'm typing with my thumbs and cooking dinner so please forgive my brevity.

Most hooks that you see on tow straps (that are bought that way) are woefully inadequate.

If a 3" single ply strap has an ABS nearing 30,000 lbs then you want a hook that is at least that strong. That is a big hook.

Hooks are quicker to use than shackles but in potentially kinetic environments I prefer shackles because they are strong. The 3/4" Van Beest shackles we sell have an ABS of 62,000 lbs. that is twice a quality 3" strap.

You are correct that the hook or shackle needs a higher ABS than the strap and also that the linkage is only as strong as what you attach to on the stuck vehicle, so never attach to an unsuitable recovery point. I've pulled many people out of a snowy ditch but also left quite a few when they don't have recovery points that I feel safe attaching too. In that case the person is allowed to stay warm in my vehicle or I take them somewhere if possible. I have and will hook to a small tie down point if they just need a little assistance on a slippery shoulder, but if they need a hard winch or kinetic snatch then I will decline.
 
Ok thanks for the info Overland. The area that is in question is a small hill by my house that is very shaded by trees so the snow/ice rarely fully melts. The plow had just been through the area so the ground was a bit more slippery than normal which is part of the reason why she got stuck. She did not get fully embedded in the snow on the shoulder but rather got herself stuck and the rear tires would not get traction.

The tow strap I have is a Smittybuilt CS220 (offered free a few months ago through 4wheelparts and Google Offers) which is why I am asking. I can understand your point that if I should have needed to do a full kinetic tug of getting her out then I would have declined to do so but offered a lift to her place of work nearby or a call from my cell for a tow truck. I really do appreciate the input you are giving as I am relatively new to 4wheeling and towing is something completely foreign to me at this point (and recovery for that matter).
 
go to a tow truck catalog and you will be amazed at how many attachments there are, most are for winching also tie rod and tierod end temp repair kits .lots of stuff for the wheeler .
 
The tow strap I have is a Smittybuilt CS220 (offered free a few months ago through 4wheelparts and Google Offers) which is why I am asking. I can understand your point that if I should have needed to do a full kinetic tug of getting her out then I would have declined to do so but offered a lift to her place of work nearby or a call from my cell for a tow truck. I really do appreciate the input you are giving as I am relatively new to 4wheeling and towing is something completely foreign to me at this point (and recovery for that matter).

I googled that part number and didnt come up with anything.

Still be careful of where you attach a strap or hook. You can easily damage a vehicle or create dangerous recoil. You do not have to do a hard kinetic pull (snatch) to generate enough stored recoil in a strap to cause dangerous recoil if something breaks or comes loose. You are pulling with a vehicle that weights a couple to few tons, not just your body weight.

:-)
 
We had a situation last year - southern Utah, Cottonwood Canyon Road, muddy stretch for about 30-40 yards, encountering an oncoming Nissan Armada 2WD stuck in the mud. Driver wanted me to hook the winch cable to the front suspension since there was no sign OD any tow hook or attachment point, and I didn't feel like kneeling in the mud to find one... No go.
Rear of the vehicle had a receiver hitch, so I stuck the loop of my snatch strap inside the hitch and inserted a matching grade-8 bolt (1/2" or so) for the loop to pull on. I tried to give the "... If anything bad happens, it's your fault" speech, but doubt that was useful because the vehicle occupants were from China... Didn't need to use momentum, nice and easy worked just fine to pull them out backwards to dry ground.
Of course, that wasn't the direction they'd wanted to go, so we 'mapped' the best track, they tried again, to no avail on account of being too timid with the skinny pedal, and I pulled them back out again.
At that point, I felt I'd done my civic duty, pointed out their alternate route, and we went on our way since we had some ways to go...
 
You guys are making me rethink recovery points and straps. I like what SE Overland said about loops at the end of your recovery straps, but I also dont know that will work with most of the vehicles that you drag out of the ditch, especially here with this weather, had a transport truck take my lane while I was in it this morning, thankful for 38" tires, and three foot deep snowbanks to slow me down in a hurry.

Anyway, for most light pulls in cold weather, not having to handle a couple shackles and just hooks should save some time for pulling civics and chrysler's out of the ruts and the hook will probably be easier attached to alot of cars, but then again a good kinetic strap and being able to take a few runs at pulling or being pulled out while wheeling is also good.

I feel like I should have a hook, a recovery point for a shackle and a loop on both ends of my truck and then three different types of straps in multiple lengths after reading all this.

What are your thoughts regrarding a short section of chain or something better? to attach to the strap to vehicles which have crappy recovery points?
 
Chain works well in some instances for attaching to spots that have to be choked, or areas that have sharp edges. The downside is chain is heavy, has an open connection (hook vs shackle) and if it breaks it will recoil.
 
I have one of those "cluster hooks" that I keep in my snow recovery bag.. only take it out when I'm out on a mission to extract someone. Basically there are a series of pokey things and one of them you'll be able to barely wedge into a hole in the frame, then you shackle your recovery strap to the loop. I've only used it once, and it was a pretty light pull, but the setup seemed pretty solid.

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found here: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...ural&cm_cat=netconcepts&cm_pla=Google&cm_ite=

It's sad though, so often "no good deed goes unpunished" and it's generally better to just offer someone a ride, rather than try to yank them out of whatever mess they're in.
 
Thanks for all the input guys. It has made me rethink how I go about these situations.
I admit that when I went and did it I did not look at how deeply the truck was buried or what truly was going on, just assumed that she lost traction going up the street and slid backwards into the snowdrift on the side of the road.

From now on I will definitely offer my service but be sure to truly evaluate the situation prior to doing anything. This weekend was another good example. We got dumped on on Saturday and went over the hill to Apple Hill for some Christmas tree hunting. Well they apparently got dumped on as well. They had probably 3-4" of snow around but the thing is they almost NEVER get snow, and if they do it surely doesnt stick. Well everything was like ICE around all the farms, half of them were shut down because there was so much ice that people (mainly from the valley with 2wd) were getting stuck or having accidents. We were actually at one of the locations when all traffic in and out was stopped because some poor guy was stuck with his truck across both lanes. He was in a 2wd chevy longbed, lowered with big rims and small tires. He was just spinning his wheels on the ice and not getting anywhere, this would have been a perfect place for the strap to come out and to move him out of the way of everyone. But after all this discussion I would have seriously thought about it before offering.

Eventually he did get out with 4 200lbs+ guys in the bed and two more pushing.
 

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