Torsion Bar/Alignment Risk? (5 Viewers)

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Joined
Apr 2, 2009
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15
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142
Location
Fort Collins, CO
Short Version:

If I crank my torsion bars DOWN by about 1/2" and don't get an alignment before a week of ~800 miles on highway and a few days on the trail, how risky is this?
(OME Tbars, stock UCAs, bumper and winch)

Long Version:

Had an alignment at my local 4x4 shop recently and they asked if I wanted them to crank up the Tbars a bit as my truck sits with a decent rake. I told them that if they could crank them a bit and keep the ride (on and off road) proper, as well as have it properly aligned, they could go for it. Well ... they cranked it up to be totally level and it rides like garbage on and off road. Driveline vibes under harder acceleration, off road the front end unloads with a vengeance, washboard roads are a nightmare. They can't get me back in to make it right for multiple weeks, and I can't find anyplace in Northern Colorado to adjust the Tbars and align this week. I'm headed to Silverton this Sunday, and the rig is not set-up to hit the trails like this. Thinking I may just crank the Tbars down to unload the front end a bit so I can go wheeling a couple days. Thoughts?

Thanks!
 
Short Version:

If I crank my torsion bars DOWN by about 1/2" and don't get an alignment before a week of ~800 miles on highway and a few days on the trail, how risky is this?
(OME Tbars, stock UCAs, bumper and winch)

Long Version:

Had an alignment at my local 4x4 shop recently and they asked if I wanted them to crank up the Tbars a bit as my truck sits with a decent rake. I told them that if they could crank them a bit and keep the ride (on and off road) proper, as well as have it properly aligned, they could go for it. Well ... they cranked it up to be totally level and it rides like garbage on and off road. Driveline vibes under harder acceleration, off road the front end unloads with a vengeance, washboard roads are a nightmare. They can't get me back in to make it right for multiple weeks, and I can't find anyplace in Northern Colorado to adjust the Tbars and align this week. I'm headed to Silverton this Sunday, and the rig is not set-up to hit the trails like this. Thinking I may just crank the Tbars down to unload the front end a bit so I can go wheeling a couple days. Thoughts?

Thanks!
Run it bro
 
Found a Firestone that's gonna get me in. Hopefully they get it right.
 
Found a Firestone that's gonna get me in. Hopefully they get it right.
If I were you, I would do the torsion bar adjustment myself, and then take it in for an alignment once you have the torsion bars dialed in.

The torsion bar adjustment is straightforward, but you need to make sure you have sufficient downtravel. The specs are available on the forum (I don't remember the exact figures... someone might chime in). Not sure if someone who in not well-versed with Hundreds would get it right.

The downtravel measurement is made by measuring the hub-to-fender lip distance with the truck on the ground, then jacking up the truck until the tires are off the ground and remeasuring the hub-to-fender lip distance. The delta is your downtravel figure.

Get the specs, adjust the bars yourself, drive it to make sure it handles like it's supposed to, and then get it in to Firestone for the alignment!
 
I believe the droop, or down travel should be at 2.5"?
 
Did they give you an alignment printout?

The main thing you'll see is more negative camber which is going to increase inside edge tire wear, probably not a really significant amount.
 
It's pretty likely they just tightened the t bars as far as they could go without reindexing them.
 
If I were you, I would do the torsion bar adjustment myself, and then take it in for an alignment once you have the torsion bars dialed in.

The torsion bar adjustment is straightforward, but you need to make sure you have sufficient downtravel. The specs are available on the forum (I don't remember the exact figures... someone might chime in). Not sure if someone who in not well-versed with Hundreds would get it right.

The downtravel measurement is made by measuring the hub-to-fender lip distance with the truck on the ground, then jacking up the truck until the tires are off the ground and remeasuring the hub-to-fender lip distance. The delta is your downtravel figure.

Get the specs, adjust the bars yourself, drive it to make sure it handles like it's supposed to, and then get it in to Firestone for the alignment!

This is what I would do.

50mm is the minimum down travel. That is about the 2.5" the OP was referring to. You might even put more down travel in especially if you will be running a lot of weight which will cause the rear springs to compress. This will help to maintain some rake with all of the weight and keep the ride nice on the highway.
 
Thanks for all the thoughts, guys.

I will have it done properly (not going back to the original shop) after I return from this trip - the old 100 is likely gonna make a trip to Slee for a thorough check-up this fall.

I'm willing to throw $100 to Firestone for a better ride and proper (or close too) suspension travel for a week in the San Juans, even if it's not perfect.
 
Run it bro

Wouldn't you know, dropped it off at Firestone today and explained everything again and the service guy straight up tells me they don't have the skills to adjust the torsion bars. Even if I adjusted them myself, not sure I would even want to get it aligned there.

Looks like I'll just be running it :D:D:D
 
Wouldn't you know, dropped it off at Firestone today and explained everything again and the service guy straight up tells me they don't have the skills to adjust the torsion bars. Even if I adjusted them myself, not sure I would even want to get it aligned there.

Looks like I'll just be running it :D:D:D

But... But... But... You could get one of those "Lifetime" (of incompetence) alignment deals at Firestone!
 
Turning torsion bars literally requires a 30mm socket and a breaker bar or big ratchet. I am at best a 1.5 banana mechanic and this is straightforward for me. Righty tighty to go up, lefty loosy to drop down.

Here is a youtube that shows you what to do: 100 series torsion bar adjustment - Google Search
 
You'll be fine dropping it 1/2", only risk is a touch of tire wear but with a small change I wound't worry about it.

But as suggested above, do your own T-Bar adjustments and only let the alignment shop align. (Slee could adjust, and align just fine but they're not just any ol' place)
 
When I set mine to 50mm droop, it will top out going through speed bumps:( (when it's coming down on the other side) So I have it set to 70mm, and it looks awful (huge rake forward), but at least it doesn't top out. I have 10k miles since going from AHC to non-AHC & haven't visited the alignment shop yet. Can't see anything odd on the tires yet, even though I don't recommend doing this. It's just the bolts on mine are rusted solid, so it would probably need new control arms and whatnot to do the alignment. Also unload the suspension (!!!pay attention to safety while doing so, you don't want the cruiser landing on your chest!!!) because there are horror stories from people who tried to do the adjustment without lifting the corresponding front corner off the ground- ie. if the bolt breaks, and it can, it will leave a decent mark on the concrete below or go through your body if you happen to be under it.
 
Last edited:
Well F.
I tighten my Torsion Bars some time ago and never realized I would need an alignment.
 
Out if curiosity, does anyone know how much travel there is in the front suspension on a stock 100?
 
Out if curiosity, does anyone know how much travel there is in the front suspension on a stock 100?

I've seen posts that quote 7.5", stock, but I have not physically measured it myself, to verify this number.

 
Okay, you all changed my mind. Just got back from Harbor Freight with a 30mm socket. Will adjust tonight and alignment on Friday.
 
In my last LC I ran spring spacers in the rear and cranked the front a little over an inch. When I took it in to get aligned it was still in spec.

Jim
 

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