A trail rock hit?
Torsion Bar Adjuster is Broken (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter AimCOtaco
- Start date
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A trail rock hit?
I'm sure it was, I'm just surprised it would have happened in reverse. Sure it possible, but would seem so much more likely going forward.
@AimCOtaco did you finish the repair on this yet? Anything involved that isn't obvious before taking things apart?
I ordered the part as well, planning to replace it asap. Assume it's just a matter of removing the torsion bar and replacing the bracket?
I ordered the part as well, planning to replace it asap. Assume it's just a matter of removing the torsion bar and replacing the bracket?
Poked my head under the truck again to evaluate. Looks like you can release tension (in my case at least, there's still tension), just slide this bracket rearward off of the TB, mark it, match up the marks, and re-tension. Shouldn't even need to fully remove the TB from the truck.
If I'm missing something, let me know.
If I'm missing something, let me know.
- Thread starter
- #25
I'm back up and running.
You're on it, lift up the truck to reduce the load on the adjuster, and note the space between the arm and the upper cylindrical 'nut' so you can re-set the new parts close.
Paint mark your T-bar to spline relationships so you can set it back the way it was (factory T-bars are keyed, most aftermarket are not).
Then you can relive the tension but I'm pretty sure you'll have to remove the forward attachement point also in order to pull the torsion bar forward and out of the adjuster arm.
It can be a drag to get the T-bar loose from the splines on either end but depends on the state of use and corrosion.
I also had to lower the Slee belly pan on mine to get the broken arm out and the new arm in but that may or may not be the case for every aftermarket belly pan.
Then you just have to drive around to settle the parts in and then measure and fine tune your ride height.
Not too bad. Glad it's done.
PS, ( @MongooseGA ) your damage is interesting, looks like it could have been a rock crash or perhaps it's colapsing under the load? Should be able to tell when you tear it down.
You're on it, lift up the truck to reduce the load on the adjuster, and note the space between the arm and the upper cylindrical 'nut' so you can re-set the new parts close.
Paint mark your T-bar to spline relationships so you can set it back the way it was (factory T-bars are keyed, most aftermarket are not).
Then you can relive the tension but I'm pretty sure you'll have to remove the forward attachement point also in order to pull the torsion bar forward and out of the adjuster arm.
It can be a drag to get the T-bar loose from the splines on either end but depends on the state of use and corrosion.
I also had to lower the Slee belly pan on mine to get the broken arm out and the new arm in but that may or may not be the case for every aftermarket belly pan.
Then you just have to drive around to settle the parts in and then measure and fine tune your ride height.
Not too bad. Glad it's done.
PS, ( @MongooseGA ) your damage is interesting, looks like it could have been a rock crash or perhaps it's colapsing under the load? Should be able to tell when you tear it down.
Last edited:
Pretty sure it would have been a rock in my case. I couldn't tell you when, but I can tell you I'm glad to have skid plates there now.
Thanks for posting the info. Hopefully my part arrives quickly and I can knock this out as well.
Hey mate,
I am aware of two cases where the bracket broke
View attachment 2446917
Both cases it happened in cars that were heavy laden . One on a trip in Botswana and one in Namibia.
By no means a common occurrence.
A few of my fellow 100 series owners here have strengthened the bracket by welding a steel plate onto the sides of the bracket. It is not my intention to do the same - rather keep GVM low
View attachment 2446927
I had my left hand side one (genuine) snap earlier this year (6 months or so ago) while on a local trip. I replaced it with an OEM-equivalent (or so they say) one from FEBEST.
I’ve just noticed a heap of droop in the front passenger side and upon checking the mount have observed that it’s starting to deflect and tear and is only a matter of time before this one let’s go too.
I am going to replace it with genuine just in case the aftermarket one was the issue but I would think it’s probably more likely related to the amount of weight I carry in the back, particularly on the passenger side. I have a very heavy drawer full of tools as well as a bunch of heavy camping gear. I run airbags inside the rear coils to help out with the load due to how much weight I carry.
I’m thinking that the amount of weight I’m carrying is probably the likely cause of the previous failure and most likely will be the failure this time too.
Do you know how this reinforced adjust with the extra plates welded on went? My thoughts are that by reinforcing it I’d just be shifting the burden from that point to elsewhere (probably the chassis) and encouraging other fatigue/breakages?
Looking forward to hearing some feedback.
See pics below for how it sits and looks right now:
After seeing this thread, I replaced mine with new OEM as a part of a general front refresh and heavy-duty build. I didn't notice any stress fractures on the old adjusters.
I will keep the originals on hand should I have trouble and need to consider adding some reinforcement plates.
The opposite end of the torsion bar, that connects to the LCA, has a reinforcement bracket.
My front lift is just a touch under 2". My CV axles seem to be happy at this height,
I've found/observed there is a yin/yang dynamic with suspension builds.
For every one modification to enhance an orignial capability, two others are required to balance it out.
LCA Reinforcements on the other end of the torsion bar.
The stock bump stops were replaced with this set from wheelers to soften the blow on LCA uptravel. They do work very well to lift the front and keep the suspension under control when traversing rough and rocky water crossings. You can see how they are wearing evenly in the picture below.
I will keep the originals on hand should I have trouble and need to consider adding some reinforcement plates.
The opposite end of the torsion bar, that connects to the LCA, has a reinforcement bracket.
My front lift is just a touch under 2". My CV axles seem to be happy at this height,
I've found/observed there is a yin/yang dynamic with suspension builds.
For every one modification to enhance an orignial capability, two others are required to balance it out.
LCA Reinforcements on the other end of the torsion bar.
The stock bump stops were replaced with this set from wheelers to soften the blow on LCA uptravel. They do work very well to lift the front and keep the suspension under control when traversing rough and rocky water crossings. You can see how they are wearing evenly in the picture below.
If you are replacing the adjusters when you are doing a lift (or out precaution), don't cheap out on parts like I did:
These bent adjuster arms are from "FEBEST".
After this failure I reinstalled the old ones.
I thought about creating a template and having a few weld on sides cut from high tensile strength steel. May have to do that in the future.
These bent adjuster arms are from "FEBEST".
After this failure I reinstalled the old ones.
I thought about creating a template and having a few weld on sides cut from high tensile strength steel. May have to do that in the future.
David*BJ70
Looking forward to reach the end of the world
Seen that on Facebook … 
It would be nice if these were available for sale in the US.
David*BJ70
Looking forward to reach the end of the world
Custom laser cut parts ... but I agree. This could easily be done by a fabricator but the potential buyer may not be very interested.
Seen that on Facebook …
I think he might be able to do this.
Hopefully he can chime in.
Hmm!!! Calling @TheForger
I think he might be able to do this.
Hopefully he can chime in.
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Hmm very interesting. I could definitely make some I'd just have to see if the demand is there to justify it. It wouldn't be an easy install as it would require complete removal of the adjuster and access to a grinder and welderSeen that on Facebook …
Hmm!!! Calling @TheForger
I think he might be able to do this.
Hopefully he can chime in.
