Torque specs for cam shaft removal (2 Viewers)

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I am going to pull my camshafts soon. I have done the cylinder head before so i have done this but i had a FSM handy. Does anyone have a link to any FSM instructions for removal of cam shafts? All i really need are torque spec for cam caps and the criss cross tightening pattern, torque spec on cam gears and torque spec on distributor gear if i remember correctly.

If i remember correctly just line it all up at TDC, mark distributor, line up dots on cams, line up crank shaft. Zip tie gear really well. Remove distributor, distributor drive gear, cam chain gear. Then loosen caps in criss cross, remove exhaust first right, hen intake. Sounds easy, what could go wrong. I assume tensoner needs to come out as well.
 
Search youtubby for the OTRAMM FZJ80 head gasket video. In part one he shows his methods of how to remove the camshafts. Key point is that there's a lot of force pushing upward from the valve springs on the (hollow) camshafts so you want that pressure to push up equally across the length of the camshaft as you loosen the cap nuts so as not to crack the shaft.

Edit: found it

The camshaft removal starts at ~36:30 but the rest of the video is interesting to watch.

 
You should be able to find a link on mud for the FSM. If not, DM me your email and I will send you a google drive link to mine.
PM sent with email. I will also watch video again. I think watched this and the dvd and had fsm last time when i did the HG.
 
You will see in the vid/FSM, setting the correct lobes up for the removal sequence...
 
Will I be able to get the ignition timing right by marking things or do I use a timing light? In the past i think i used a timing light. For a obd 1 do i jump two contacts, run a specified rpm and adjust ignition advance?
 
you should be pretty close just lining it up on reinstallation, use a sharpy for a few index marks. timing light is the correct way to go if you think that youll need to make adjustments after install, you can always go back and adjust it later if the truck is running fine. you do need to jump 2 pins in the obd connector when you adjust the timing with a light, i think it was TE and E1
 

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