'Topping Off' front end? (1 Viewer)

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HMP

Joined
Aug 5, 2022
Threads
28
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166
Location
Winston Salem, NC
I have weeping front knuckles - is there a way to top off until I can get around to fixing permanently? Im just trying to think about the upcoming winter and if I were to need to use 4WD before I can replace it all
 
You can add oil to the diff, or add grease at the plugs on the top of each knuckle. (they have a square peg plug in front of my thumb)

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Hard to say, but your oil seals (inner axel seals) are probably toast? I would top off oil for sure then check the grease in the hole. the grease does NOT keep the oil from coming out.
 
where/how to add oil to diff and how to know how much to add?

There is a fill plug on the front of the diff housing. On level ground, remove that plug using a 24MM 6-point socket (assuming its the original OEM plug) and fill with gear oil until it starts running out of the fill hole. Then replace the fill plug. Lots of folks replace with after-market Allen-head plugs so that might the case in your situation. OEM plugs can get easily buggered up and are easily rounded off trying to get them out. The head of the OEM plug is not very deep so take care to have the socket on straight and not angled at all while trying to get it off risking rounding it off in the process. I get a 6-point 24mm socket with a long breaker bar and apply even force very slowly.. Don't do this with the truck on any sort of hill otherwise you may fill too much or too little as the oil will run out of the fill hole differently due to the incline. If you remove the plug and oil immediately starts coming out of the hole, then you are already set. Just replace the plug and go have a beer. No need to gorilla tighten them either when putting them back. Just snug them up.

That said, if your inner seals are leaking, you'll just be adding oil to the slurry that's likely already in your knuckles by doing this. This will be a good test to see if your seals leak, but if you don't know if a knuckle rebuild has been done already, then it needs to be done. The job is big enough that anyone who has it done would have likely used it as a selling point when they sold you the truck. HTH.

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Just to add to @Gretsch s good advice, you might want to get one of those cheap transfer hand pumps to pump the oil into the hole. It works like a charm. Any auto parts store has them. The knuckle rebuild is a right of passage I guess...I did mine soon after purchase. The worst part is getting all the parts cleaned up to go back on, but that depends on how much of a cleaner you are. Cruiser Outfitters sells the rebuild kits with everything you need. There are a few others that also sell them.
 
Sorry for a bit of a thread hijack, but I have a question regarding those axle seals and it may help anyone who reads this thread.

I did my knuckles/inner axle seals about 5 years ago using marlin ecoseals and a trail gear knuckle seal kit.

Things were good for a while, but I’m definitely leaking from at least one of the knuckles again (argh!)

Wondering if you all have any advice On why that could be:
1. Are my birfield/axles buggered?
2. Did I potentially bugger the inner axle seals on install?
3. Diff breather is clogged and somehow causing gear oil to squirt into the knuckles?
4. Who knows? (Bugger all!)

FYI, I have about 300k miles on a bj60 landcruiser.

Thanks :)
 
4. Who knows? (Bugger all!)

4. Improper alignment of the axle in relation to the knuckle. The knuckle needs to be shimmed top and bottom so that the axle sits dead center, otherwise it will oscillate and destroy the seal. Aligning the knuckle requires a special tool. I think there are a couple of people on the forum that have one that they are willing to lend.

Also, check that your locking hubs and/or your 4WD are disengaging properly, otherwise your front axles will be spinning continuously, increasing wear.
 
When you did the knuckles, did you use the centering tool to shim the knuckles and center them or just re-use the shims that were there? Place them in the same spot they were taken from? Any burrs or grooves worn into the axle shaft itself from the old seals? Which side is leaking (long or short?) When you pulled the old axle seals out, any marks made on the inside axle seal surface from the puller tool? ECO seals are good IMHO but still can leak. A little more forgiving I think with regards to axle shaft install but its very hard to get the shaft in without touching the seal no matter how good you are. But any one of your proposed possibilities could be true. Are you actually loosing gear oil from the diff itself (level lowering). I have read that the oil in the grease can start to separate and present like leaking seals. I am admittedly parroting what I have seen in other posts though with regards to that so take it for what its worth. Would have to open them up to really know or peer into the fill plug at the knuckle with some kind of device to see. Not sure how effective that would be but might give you some idea.
 
Good advice from both of you—thank you!!

Icertainly did not use the centering tool but I’m fairly certain I reused the shims where they were (no guarantee they were good to go to begin with).

I’m pretty up to my neck in a repaint project, but I will check into this more once that’s squared away.
 

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