tools needed for hub remove/replace?

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J

jblueridge

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I am probably going to replace the front brake rotors on my '88 BJ74. I read the FSM and now I am wondering what tools I will actually need since I don't have the Special Service Tools or a spring gauge to measure pre-load on the bearings.

Any advice on hub dismantling and reassembly is welcome. Manual lock hubs by the way.
 
A fish scale works well for bearing preload.
ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1437629725.278126.webp
 
@jblueridge,

Here are some of the YouTube videos that I found to be the best ones out there. These ones are put by our own MUD member Louis @lshobie and he goes by PowerModz in YouTube:

Video 1:



Video 2:



If you are only doing the rotors, then your steps would go as far as removing the wheel hubs, and then fast forward on the second video to see the re-assembly of the whole wheel part.

Also, some of the videos for the rear axle and rear brakes from Louis as well

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5lmQE3_oiNQ

Louis' truck is a newer 5-lug wheel style, but the steps for our older 6-lug wheel ones are exactly the same. You will get an idea of the tools you will need by watching these videos. But it is nothing too special, except the big socket for the big nuts that hold the wheel hub. Other than that is a standard metric set, C-clip retainer pliers, punches, shop towels (lots of them), brake cleaner, and gloves (it is a little bit of a messy job).

EDIT: Add a torque wrench to the list of tools above

Hope this helps!

-Alberto
 
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Thanks everybody. I'm off to buy a 54 mm hub socket now. I got past the spring circlip with no holes/ears after a bit of a struggle.
The only thing I'm still wondering about is the rotor locating bolts the manual says have to be pressed out of/into the hub. I guess "pressing" is a lot like pounding with a BFH.
 
If you have a Harbor Freight nearby, a 20 ton hydraulic press is a shade over $100 - or used to be. ;)
 
jblueridge said:
The only thing I'm still wondering about is the rotor locating bolts the manual says have to be pressed out of/into the hub. I guess "pressing" is a lot like pounding with a BFH.
Click to expand...

yeah they knock out with a drift and a bfh pretty easily
 
Spent a lot of time driving and buying stuff today.
Nobody had a 54mm hub socket but NAPA had a 55mm and the pliers for no-holes circlips. The 55mm was good enough to take things apart.
I'll either cut, reduce and weld the POS or spot weld some shims on it.
I tried the BFH on the studs but they weren't moving. Harbor Freight IS moving to a new larger location so I drove over the mountain and bought a press. It was more like $200 but it's pretty solid and it got good reviews.
I'll either get this done or bust stuff up.
 
I got my 54mm socket from Amazon and it was something like 10 doll hairs. My only complaint is the 3/8ths drive. The manufacturer justified it by saying that's what most people carry in their "trail repair kit". 1/2 drive would be much better especially if an impact gun is involved. But it worked fine and you can't beat the price with a big stick.

Edit:

It's $20 now, but free shipping with prime https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008OJD25E/?tag=ihco-20

Here is the tq wrench I bought too. I really like it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00C5ZL0RU/?tag=ihco-20
 
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If you leave the bottom shims on the knuckle you won't need the centering tool. At least that's the story I was told. The tool is expensive. Just keep the bottom shims on and keep the top shims in order and replace them in the exact order and orientation they came off. Torque back on, then check your preload with the fish scale. Read up in the disk brake swap thread in the FAQ 40 series section.
 
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