My glass, which has been replaced by the PO at some point, is in good shape but the trims are peeling at the corners and at the top in the roof channels. Can those be pulled out and replaced without removing the windshield? Or should I just pull the trim and have it all replaced and done well, even if it is for peace of mind. All I can think about is rust forming under those damn moldings/trim.
To Safelite or Not? Windshield Replacement.
- Thread starter OG 91 LC
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You can remove and replace the side trims but not the top one. The side trims are riveted in. You should replace those rivets with the Toyota brand, which are wrapped with plastic at the bottom and have a black head. The top trim is all rubber and sits underneath the windshield. I tried to remove mine, but what happened was I ripped it off, leaving the portion underneath the windshield still there. I didn't remove it all, only a couple of inches, so I applied marine caulk to seal it.
However, if the side trims were put back with screws, most likely they expanded the hole and the OEM rivets won't work. You would need to find larger rivets or use screws again. If you do, coat them with urethane or caulk to make sure you keep the water out.
However, if the side trims were put back with screws, most likely they expanded the hole and the OEM rivets won't work. You would need to find larger rivets or use screws again. If you do, coat them with urethane or caulk to make sure you keep the water out.
Thanks for the quick reply. The corner of the top (horizontal) trim is pulling up and coming unglued as well. Is there any way to tell if the trim was screwed or riveted without removing something that has to be replaced?
Yes, the side trim is actually 3 parts put together. Along the side of the windshield, the inside of the side trim has a thin rubber cover that basically hides the rivets. It runs on the inside channel from about 1 in. from both ends, top and bottom. You may pick it with your finger or thin pliers and pull it out. I will reveal 4 rivets, or screws.
I'm disappointed with the overall design/factory install. Mine was leaking from the top, left corner (driver side). I'm the only owner. Pulled out the trims and there is rust underneath, wtf! It appears as if water gets under the top rubber trim, runs under the rubber until it meets the corner with the side trim, but some water sits there and the channel/trim is not able to empty it completely. Rust developed there, not much, but enough to allow water to sip in from underneath the urethane. I think I plugged it, for now. We'll see how long it lasts.
Interesting. Do you have pictures? What year? I see you're in NJ, which is where my 98 lived most of its life. Not sure if they use a ton of salt and sh*t on the roads up there like they do here in VA.
I know there are several other threads on this issue, but I will take pics of what it looks like now, what I find, and the course of action.
Sorry, I completed the work and didn't take pictures.
Mine is a 2005 LX-470. Had to replace the bottom engine skid plate--rust everywhere. Had to rebuild the spare tire frame, brackets, bolts and pulley-rust everywhere. Had to rebuild the emergency brake crank inside the drums--all rusted and stuck. While there, saw the inside of the rear bumper, fully rusted. Will replace soon. It just bothers me knowing that it is like that.
Did they give you any reason why they wouldn't use new rivets and existing holes per FSM? Is there rust around the existing holes?
As long as it doesn't leak, and looks okay, you would never know there were screws or rivets used. They are covered up nicely by a little trim piece that sits in the channel of the main trim piece.
It just seems like the easy way out, using screws, rather than how it's "supposed" to be done with the rivets.
It just seems like the easy way out, using screws, rather than how it's "supposed" to be done with the rivets.
So far as I can tell they did a really great job. Couldn't reuse the strip as it was dry and molded to the old rivets. But looks great and I'm happy. Time will tell. They also used urethane to seal it all up.
Huge difference with the new glass. No noise...whisper quiet. And it's sooooo clean! Lol
Huge difference with the new glass. No noise...whisper quiet. And it's sooooo clean! Lol
Using GEICO full glass coverage, i filed a claim and setup a mobile safelite repair.
The mobile tech they sent was excellent and he was very transparent about how he was going to use some oversized non-OEM rivets to replace the ones he drilled out (no plastic like oem). He showed me the aftermarket OEM equivalent glass and pointed out a bunch of imperfections i would have never even noticed. Thats when i started asking about real OEM glass b/c the cracked glass was 2006 OEM Mr. T stuff, looks like it has never been tampered with.
After a bunch of banter, he agreed to call his boss and see if they could source OEM glass and rivets for the repair. Three days later, the request was approved by the carrier and everything was ordered. Just got the call that all the OEM parts are in and scheduled a in house drop off appointment with them.
Hopefully this excellent service continues....
The mobile tech they sent was excellent and he was very transparent about how he was going to use some oversized non-OEM rivets to replace the ones he drilled out (no plastic like oem). He showed me the aftermarket OEM equivalent glass and pointed out a bunch of imperfections i would have never even noticed. Thats when i started asking about real OEM glass b/c the cracked glass was 2006 OEM Mr. T stuff, looks like it has never been tampered with.
After a bunch of banter, he agreed to call his boss and see if they could source OEM glass and rivets for the repair. Three days later, the request was approved by the carrier and everything was ordered. Just got the call that all the OEM parts are in and scheduled a in house drop off appointment with them.
Hopefully this excellent service continues....
Great results from Safelite - new $1K OEM glass installed with the OEM rivets. The Trim work that was reused looks great.
So, looks like Safelite is hit or mess depending on the branch. Make a big fuss about OEM glass and ask them to appeal the claim to insurance and see what happens.
So, looks like Safelite is hit or mess depending on the branch. Make a big fuss about OEM glass and ask them to appeal the claim to insurance and see what happens.
Looks like Safelite really is hit or miss. Took me 6 made appointments and 4 kept ones to finally get a sloppy windshield install on my LX.
1) First appointment cancelled due to wrong glass.
2 )Second appointment the top flex molding was jacked up and made a ton of wind noise.
3) Third appointment tech came out and just removed ALL the trim except for top horizontal piece. Left rivet holes open (which i didnt know about yet) . Said it would take a while but they would order more. I left the car at the mechanic for unrelated stuff for 2 weeks and turns out the windshield also leaked up top so my electrical system was was doing a bunch of different things when I got it back. Door chimes when there shouldnt be any, killed the battery. Lights staying on when turned off. They told me it was probably the sun roof leaking.
4) Fourth appointment they never actually ordered new trim... had to get on them for that. Finally ordered and installed new moldings. I told them side moldings needed to be riveted in but they were only urethaned in. Sticky tape for top didnt hold and popped by the next morning so it looked ridiculous. Told them it needed to be redone.
5) I pulled off the a pillar inside trim and showed them the windshield was leaking and told them to redo the job from start to finish, including rivets and that they would need an extension for it, so we had to reschedule rather than just a resetting of the molding.
6) Their manager (who claims he did "100's of these down south" said he would personally do the install, with a tech. The install is sloppy AND he used self tapping screws instead of rivets. Urethane leftover on top of my roof on both sides for the top molding, which isnt sitting level or flush inside the groove. Bent the molding at the top of the windshield. Self tapping screws peaking out from behind the trim. Unfortunately it is the best work this shop is capable of performing. They were proud of their work. Yes they have a guarantee. It might as well be a guarantee to look like $hit when they are done.
Wife thinks i'm being anal on a 20 year old truck and that no one else would notice it but I'm afraid its going to cause rust issues like i've seen on here. At the top corners it doesnt look at all neat or flush. The trim is jumbled together. This repair was done through my insurance for a total cost of $375 and $0 out of pocket, plus they purchased the trim so i'm sure they took a hit on it. Well I got exactly what I paid for. I think i might go back to insurance to see about finding a different shop to redo it.
1) First appointment cancelled due to wrong glass.
2 )Second appointment the top flex molding was jacked up and made a ton of wind noise.
3) Third appointment tech came out and just removed ALL the trim except for top horizontal piece. Left rivet holes open (which i didnt know about yet) . Said it would take a while but they would order more. I left the car at the mechanic for unrelated stuff for 2 weeks and turns out the windshield also leaked up top so my electrical system was was doing a bunch of different things when I got it back. Door chimes when there shouldnt be any, killed the battery. Lights staying on when turned off. They told me it was probably the sun roof leaking.
4) Fourth appointment they never actually ordered new trim... had to get on them for that. Finally ordered and installed new moldings. I told them side moldings needed to be riveted in but they were only urethaned in. Sticky tape for top didnt hold and popped by the next morning so it looked ridiculous. Told them it needed to be redone.
5) I pulled off the a pillar inside trim and showed them the windshield was leaking and told them to redo the job from start to finish, including rivets and that they would need an extension for it, so we had to reschedule rather than just a resetting of the molding.
6) Their manager (who claims he did "100's of these down south" said he would personally do the install, with a tech. The install is sloppy AND he used self tapping screws instead of rivets. Urethane leftover on top of my roof on both sides for the top molding, which isnt sitting level or flush inside the groove. Bent the molding at the top of the windshield. Self tapping screws peaking out from behind the trim. Unfortunately it is the best work this shop is capable of performing. They were proud of their work. Yes they have a guarantee. It might as well be a guarantee to look like $hit when they are done.
Wife thinks i'm being anal on a 20 year old truck and that no one else would notice it but I'm afraid its going to cause rust issues like i've seen on here. At the top corners it doesnt look at all neat or flush. The trim is jumbled together. This repair was done through my insurance for a total cost of $375 and $0 out of pocket, plus they purchased the trim so i'm sure they took a hit on it. Well I got exactly what I paid for. I think i might go back to insurance to see about finding a different shop to redo it.
Well now at my 5th visit after the automatic wipers were acting crazy this past weekend AND when I went to lube the hood hinges I found all of the fasteners for both plastic surrounds at the bottom of the windshield (around the wipers) were broken so that trim piece would just flop around. Who knows what I'll find next!
