- Thread starter
- #41
I typically do my own service, having littles changes the amount of time I have to do more in depth maintenance. For the most part the dealership has been fine for maintenance only…
To change or not to change…the transmission filter. (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Fj60+
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Did they grease your driveshaft?
- Thread starter
- #43
Not to my knowledge. They did the diff x3, trans fluid exchange, oil change, coolant exchange and tsb
Since the fluid rises as it gets hotter....
Can't you just start the engine, then remove the plug and put the plug back in when the temp gets to 113°F ?
I do things myself. See post #17. I just wanted to find out what they charged to do it. I have flushed my AHC, radiator, power steering, did the fluid exchange on the transmission, changed the fluid on all diff's and changed oil multiple times. All I have left to do maintenance wise really is the brakes which I have DBA rotors and hawk pads along with SS lines sitting in my garage. Although the radiator hasn't leaked yet.
Deciding on what to do first as far as tires, wheels, skids, armor, front bumper, etc. Probably the tires/wheels along with a sensor lift first, then skids/armor and bumper. I have time though. In Florida now, but will be eventually moving to Tennessee smack dab between Nashville an Knoxville out in the boonies on 50 acres where these mods might be a little more useful/necessary.
CharlieS
GOLD Star
No idea what terrain you'll be on, but assuming it isn't an offroad access to a remote cabin, adding decent tires will probably get you 99% of the way. As far as I'm concerned, the rest is for offroad use.
Yea...it's just 10 minutes of gravel road and at most a tiny creek crossing. I just think that once I am there, I will be more likely to go on some offroad adventures since I am in the area. I like to be prepared.
Ok. My initial thought was that maybe they over-greased the driveshaft and the shuddering is the vehicle attempting to compress the grease. If they didn’t grease it could be the driveshaft binding a bit as it’s not slipping in and out like it should. I’m not an expert and I haven’t personally experienced this though, but given it’s only happening in reverse it makes me think something is binding up slightly when shifting directions.
He did say reverse uphill. Could it be trans fluid level, since the vehicle trans fluid is at an angle in the pan, so the fluid pick up point has now changed in reference due to angle of hill?
- Thread starter
- #51
Sorry I’ve been off the grid, I haven’t had time to get the truck back over to the dealer. Also if what a fluid issue due to angle wouldn’t it also happen moving forward as well? Such a weird situation. No issue driving down the rode, I monitor trans temp with a scan gauge and it’s normal range.
Not really, because going forward would be going downhill.
- Thread starter
- #53
I tired to video the issue, I was unable to recreate the issue…
I am about to service the fluid in the transmission and am debating between several drain and fills aligning with the next 3 or so oil changes, or do a full exchange once and not touch it for several years (I am at 85k now).
I do not want to remove the pan. Does this procedure apply to US spec 200 series (I assume the transmission is the same AB60)?
I could interpret that as step (b) is to fill to the top of the overflow tube, then step (d) is add an additional 2.2qt. Am I reading that incorrectly? So possibly removing and draining the pan will in fact be closer to 5.5qts as @Hillbilly Deluxe mentioned?
I do not want to remove the pan. Does this procedure apply to US spec 200 series (I assume the transmission is the same AB60)?
I could interpret that as step (b) is to fill to the top of the overflow tube, then step (d) is add an additional 2.2qt. Am I reading that incorrectly? So possibly removing and draining the pan will in fact be closer to 5.5qts as @Hillbilly Deluxe mentioned?
I don't quite understand why he does the final drain/fill of the pan, except maybe to make sure there aren't any contaminates that ended up in the pan? But yes this procedure will let you easily swap ~12 of the 13 quarts of fluid, more or less.
One reason to drop the pan at the beginning (aside from swapping the transmission filter, which I think is largely unnecessary) is that the drain plug isn't actually at the bottom of the pan. One downside to dropping the pan though is that sometimes the bolts in the corners seize up and break... probably less likely for you in California than for me in Illinois, but it sucks if they do break.
BTW I did my first full swap at 60k I think, but in any case at your mileage swapping all the fluid is fine to do, and IMO is a better call than doing 3 quarts at a time where you're basically diluting dirty fluid over and over.
Thanks. I think I will follow the video and exchange as much as possible. A little more complexity but better IMO. I am a bit worried about the level ending up too high or too low. That is why I liked the idea of several drain and fills, I could put back in exactly what I took out. I don't have anything that reads transmission pan fluid temp, so I'll have to pick up a scanner or rely on the OBD jumper trick.
How is everyone with lifted trucks confirming the truck is "level"? (it will be on flat ground). Mine has more of a rake than a stock truck. Should I jack up the front a little to mimic the factory rake, or is it not a big deal?
How is everyone with lifted trucks confirming the truck is "level"? (it will be on flat ground). Mine has more of a rake than a stock truck. Should I jack up the front a little to mimic the factory rake, or is it not a big deal?
@sdnative After reading and seeing how many issues people have had with dropping the pan leading to opening a can of worms with broken bolts, etc IMHO I would not drop the pan. I just did the fluid replacement on mine at 50k and it wasn't too difficult after recruiting a helper to watch drain/old fluid/waste container. Watch the videos several times and/or read the instructions several times before you start (assuming you haven't done it before btw) so there's limited surprises once you start. At the end of my swap, the fluid coming out was identical to that going in.
Techstream is clutch for this process as there is zero guesswork on what trans fluid temp is. If you don't have it, my strong recommendation is to also get it before attempting. This will also help you with other stuff in the future. In any event, post what you do and what you learned/how it went.
Techstream is clutch for this process as there is zero guesswork on what trans fluid temp is. If you don't have it, my strong recommendation is to also get it before attempting. This will also help you with other stuff in the future. In any event, post what you do and what you learned/how it went.
The reason behind why many people remove the pan IS to inspect what's in the pan. If it's just fluid and some dirty magnets, great. You have peace of mind. Afterall, aren't you doing maintenance yourself on a vehicle because you want to make sure it's done right and you want the vehicle to last as long as possible?
If there's a piece of a snap ring or some other larger debris in there, doesn't that give you a heads up to get it to a shop for further investigation? I'm in the camp of treating a problem early - most of the time you will come out ahead versus just letting it go or ignoring it.
I don't understand all the angst about dropping the pan. Yeah, it can take another 30 minutes, but are you really trying to do this job in 15-20 minutes to start with? I am good with dropping the pan and changing the filter every 70-100k miles and doing some drain and fills in between. If I bought new, I'd be dropping the pan and changing the filter at 60k, then 120k and then every 100k after that.
Dropped my pan, 2 bolts broke, mechanic replaced all the bolts with new ones, no big deal replaced the screen all is great I an actually seeing an improvement in gas mileage. All other fluids changed in the drive
line well.
line well.
I would take those 2 corner exposed bolts out and put some anti-seize on them and reinstall if your mechanic didn't do that already.
