To Buy A Turd or Not...That is The Question

[DaveS]

I'm looking for an FJ62. Basic background is that while I love the look of the FJ60s, wife really wants some basic creature comforts and power windows and an automatic fit the bill. I'm a pretty handy guy when it comes to most stuff - electrical, plumbing, cabinetry - but have only basic auto work experience and none with any Toyotas, let alone Toyota trucks of this vintage.

Here's my question. I prefer the idea of buying an outright turd and polishing it into a piece of gold. Meaning, all things being equal, I'd rather buy an FJ62 for $2000 and do a ton of work to it over time than buy one for $10-15K. Am I nuts? It feels like there might be a min threshold, price and condition wise, that I should be considering and not go full-on turd in this purchase given my background. Anyone buy a real clunker and have a good time turning it around? Any "pucker point" criteria you all might consider in this situation?

 

[DaveS]

I'm looking for an FJ62. Basic background is that while I love the look of the FJ60s, wife really wants some basic creature comforts and power windows and an automatic fit the bill. I'm a pretty handy guy when it comes to most stuff - electrical, plumbing, cabinetry - but have only basic auto work experience and none with any Toyotas, let alone Toyota trucks of this vintage.

Here's my question. I prefer the idea of buying an outright turd and polishing it into a piece of gold. Meaning, all things being equal, I'd rather buy an FJ62 for $2000 and do a ton of work to it over time than buy one for $10-15K. Am I nuts? It feels like there might be a min threshold, price and condition wise, that I should be considering and not go full-on turd in this purchase given my background. Anyone buy a real clunker and have a good time turning it around? Any "pucker point" criteria you all might consider in this situation?

One other thing. This won't be a driveway darling, either. We've got a place in the mountains here in VA and plan to drive this rig up that way most weekends, use it to get to trailheads, to go fishing, to haul the kids around in crappy weather, etc.

 

[norsk]

you will put $10-15K or more into it in the long haul anyway - yet a wanna be cruiser head is in it for the process as well as the result. Tuition costs, but it leads to investment, knowledge, skills and fun

dougbert

 

[Spike Strip]

I bought a blown-head-gasket FJ60 and poured a lot of money into it over a few years. The drive-line is like new, now, and I'd take it anywhere. Would I do a full rebuild again? Dunno. I gained a tremendous amount of knowledge about the vehicle, but it was a long slow and at times, frustrating process. Worth it in the end, I think.

But it will depend on you, and your tolerance for these kinds of projects. It will be a learning curve, but you won't find a better forum full of good knowledgeable people for doing this kind of resto - Really. I've played with a lot of different vehicles and 4wds over the years, and this and some of the J**P (we don't say J**P here) forums, are the best. But if you buy a heep, it's the Toyo that'll pull you out.

If you do go for a high-mileage FJ62, try to find one with the tranny already rebuilt/replaced, as that seems to be the common issue and high-dollar repair on high-mileage trucks.

 

[MikeAM]

For what it's worth, I am in the process of restoring my '84 FJ60 that sat for 15 years without even being started. Work so far has been a carburetor rebuild with a kit at $80. I have a fair amount of auto repair experience, but have never done a carb rebuild before and with the help from this forum it went very well. Saved about $450+ had I sent it to a shop.

I am now working on the cooling system and the costs have not been all that great, so far. But let me tell you if you're getting a truck that has sat for a long time do check for rust and corrosion especially in the cooling system. I am finding rust on top of rust. Front and rear heater lines were plugged solid. flushed each independently first with CLR and compressed air then a 10 minute flush with a garden hose. Had to replace the thermostat housing, upper and lower as they were deteriorated so badly that the oil cooler hose connection disintegrated and broke off the housing. Parts I had to replace were the heater hose connection on top of the cylinder head, thermostat and housing, all hoses, and water pump. Radiator holds pressure but I'm sure will need replacing soon. Total cost so far about $250 - $300.

And yes I am enjoying doing the work myself and can't wait to get it on the road (and trails) again.


Mike

 

[Callahan Offroad]

Its the million dollar question!

I personally wouldn't spend 12k on a stock 62, ever. Like, even ever. I don't care what the mileage is. If you want the creature comforts, consider an 80 at that price point.

The advantage of a $500-$2000 cruiser is like it was said before you get to work on it and learn. The more you know your truck, the cheaper it is to own and maintain. It helps when you save $80/hour in shop labor. Another thing, is that you get to do whatever you want to it. When someone restores a cruiser (or any vehicle for that matter) they are putting what they want into it, and that doesn't always translate to other people. Which is why it can be hard to resell a cruiser. So really its a bit of a matter of what do you want out of it?

The other things to consider when buying a 62, is it was a motor that was offered for 4 years, then discontinued. Parts will become increasingly hard to find for that engine.

 

[DaveS]

you will put $10-15K or more into it in the long haul anyway - yet a wanna be cruiser head is in it for the process as well as the result. Tuition costs, but it leads to investment, knowledge, skills and fun

dougbert

I've never had a problem with learning by spending. Got a BS in kitchen remodeling and it cost as much as college tuition. I guess what I'm getting at it whether there is a floor for this stuff. I can't tell yet where the line is between polish-able turd and absolute waste of time.

 

[Heckraiser]

Here's my take on it: everything on a cruiser can be repaired relatively easily except rust. Cruisers are pretty simple to fix just about anything on the whole truck. With some research and tools (and occasionally a helper) you can do it all. If you can find said turd for that price with no rust, I would absolutely go that route. From what I've seen out there, close to $4,000 is the cost of entry for a rust free cruiser, despite mechanical issues.

 

[DaveS]

Its the million dollar question!

I personally wouldn't spend 12k on a stock 62, ever. Like, even ever. I don't care what the mileage is. If you want the creature comforts, consider an 80 at that price point.

The advantage of a $500-$2000 cruiser is like it was said before you get to work on it and learn. The more you know your truck, the cheaper it is to own and maintain. It helps when you save $80/hour in shop labor. Another thing, is that you get to do whatever you want to it. When someone restores a cruiser (or any vehicle for that matter) they are putting what they want into it, and that doesn't always translate to other people. Which is why it can be hard to resell a cruiser. So really its a bit of a matter of what do you want out of it?

The other things to consider when buying a 62, is it was a motor that was offered for 4 years, then discontinued. Parts will become increasingly hard to find for that engine.

That is great advice, man. No way we're getting an 80. I think they look pretty cool, but the wife just isn't interested. She is cool with me spending money and time on this thing, but it has to have aesthetic appeal in her eyes and the 60s definitely score points there.

 

[DaveS]

Here's my take on it: everything on a cruiser can be repaired relatively easily except rust. Cruisers are pretty simple to fix just about anything on the whole truck. With some research and tools (and occasionally a helper) you can do it all. If you can find said turd for that price with no rust, I would absolutely go that route. From what I've seen out there, close to $4,000 is the cost of entry for a rust free cruiser, despite mechanical issues.

This is the core of my question and your answer helps a ton. Rust is the one thing that really concerns me. I figure I can replace just about anything, one way or another, but I don't want to have a body that is just falling apart everywhere. I guess I could find one truck with great bones and another with a great body and put them together, but I'll only do that if I really need to.

 

[sheepdawg]

I just had this conversation with a friend of mine over the weekend. It comes down to what kind of person are you? For me, I am a perfectionist with not much patience. My friend finds working on rigs as relaxing. I am more interested in the final product and he is all about the process.
When he finishes a rig, he keeps it for a short time and sells it to start another project. When I finish a rig, I keep it and wheel it for years and then actually plan to give it to my sons. He does almost everything himself. From rebuilding the engine, installation, body work, etc. He is self taught and way more handy and knowledgeable than me. I told him that I respect what he does but I said their is no way in hell, does he do body work, rebuild an engine like a guy has done it for years. I just had Mark Algazy rebuild my engine, transfer case and install a new transmission. He has been doing this full time for 33 years. I cannot do what he does. He has forgotten more than I have will ever know. So I pay good money for that knowledge and final product. When I look at what my friend finishes, I have too many small issues that I see and that would always be in the back of my mind. Like did I do that right? or I should have done it this way. I would drive myself nuts worrying.

I personally would not buy a turd because I know how much time and $$ it will take to get it where I want. But everyone has a different definition of a turd. In the end, it comes down to who you are and what type of person you are.

Just my 2 cents. Welcome to the addiction and the life of mud.

 

[DaveS]

So, look at this one - http://www.ebay.com/itm/261437109424?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT. Seems like a good deal at the moment, but so few photos to go on. I've emailed the seller for more, particularly so I can tell what degree of rust might exist. But assuming the reserve isn't too far above the $3150, this could make a ton of sense.

Just thought I'd share what I'm looking at and considering. I wish there were more 62s available in the Mid Atlantic, though.

 

[mtbdad]

WOW!! That one looks very good for the money.

 

[dirtEJohnson]

I bought a blown-head-gasket FJ60 and poured a lot of money into it over a few years. The drive-line is like new, now, and I'd take it anywhere. Would I do a full rebuild again? Dunno. I gained a tremendous amount of knowledge about the vehicle, but it was a long slow and at times, frustrating process. Worth it in the end, I think.

But it will depend on you, and your tolerance for these kinds of projects. It will be a learning curve, but you won't find a better forum full of good knowledgeable people for doing this kind of resto - Really. I've played with a lot of different vehicles and 4wds over the years, and this and some of the J**P (we don't say J**P here) forums, are the best. But if you buy a heep, it's the Toyo that'll pull you out.

If you do go for a high-mileage FJ62, try to find one with the tranny already rebuilt/replaced, as that seems to be the common issue and high-dollar repair on high-mileage trucks.

Here's my take on it: everything on a cruiser can be repaired relatively easily except rust. Cruisers are pretty simple to fix just about anything on the whole truck. With some research and tools (and occasionally a helper) you can do it all. If you can find said turd for that price with no rust, I would absolutely go that route. From what I've seen out there, close to $4,000 is the cost of entry for a rust free cruiser, despite mechanical issues.

"Turd" is subjective and the important thing is suiting your purpose and providing enjoyment . For me, once I decided I had to have a 60 (and no, 62 nor 80 was even on the radar... allergic to autos), I spent a ton of time just looking and feeling out the market. It took 6 months, but things worked out great and am proud of the result. It didn't take long to find plenty of issues on the old girl, but I realized quickly that most everything can be monitored, prioritized and plotted out while the cruiser is still chugging along and providing enjoyment. I find more value in a semi-solid stocker than somebody else s idea of a build. It's a dangerously pricey obsession, but personally I look forward to the hours in the garage almost as much as the hours in the dirt. So, my advice is find a clean body first, nobody likes rust repair. Agree the high miler with rebuild records is best, but I would add the retro round-eye mod to the list. Enjoy the journey Sir!

 

[gurskey]

I say just look for one that is relatively rust free. Rust can be such a bummer. As long as you have a solid foundation to begin with, to me, it justifies really putting some money in and truly making it "yours". Then as you work on it and replace /rebuild things you will have a vehicle that you know inside and out. Pretty much what everyone said above. So I say, buy one that is straight and as rust free as possible, you will be happier in the end.

 

[Callahan Offroad]

I think that no matter what you do you will be happy

 

[norsk]

that latest 62 looks good, but its reserve is not met yet. could be much higher

dougbert

 

[eknight]

Dude, that one is FAR, FAR farfarfar from a turd!
If you want a turd, I'll sell you mine.... I'm kinda sorta looking to go the fzj route at some point soon....


---I tried to quote your post with the CL ad, but for some reason it didn't come up---

 

[DaveS]

Dude, that one is FAR, FAR farfarfar from a turd!
If you want a turd, I'll sell you mine.... I'm kinda sorta looking to go the fzj route at some point soon....


---I tried to quote your post with the CL ad, but for some reason it didn't come up---

Yeah, I am trying to get more info from that seller, but I'm very interested in this one. In the meantime, if you really want to sell yours, let's talk. It might be too turdly for me, but you never know. PM?

 

[SteveH]

A Land Cruiser is a series of sub-systems, like any other vehicle. Steering, brakes, suspension, engine, trans, body, glass, interior, axles. Figure out which of these subsystem problems scare you the most, and only buy a vehicle that isn't scary on all fronts. If you're not a veteran restorer and the vehicle is not super rare and worth the $$ (think FJ45), then buying a total turd is probably a bad idea. I try not to get starry-eyed when I see a Land Cruiser, and it has helped me avoid some trucks that just have no up-side, either financially or in the fun of restoring.