TJM T17 Bumper is coming Back!

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When putting on the bumper all by myself I used the panel lips to hold up the bumper.....I got some nice squeak noises going now occasionally. I suppose I will just cut the bottom panel parts or try and stuff some rubber in between. Anybody have this issue or was I not supposed to rest the bumper when installing on the panel.

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Generally it’s recommended that you leave a gap To prevent rubbing and squeaking. How much depends on the bumper and your vehicle’s soundness. I cut off that lip that you used to rest the bumper on, and have between 3/8” and 1/2” gap. No squeaking, even on rough roads and trails.
 
Generally it’s recommended that you leave a gap To prevent rubbing and squeaking. How much depends on the bumper and your vehicle’s soundness. I cut off that lip that you used to rest the bumper on, and have between 3/8” and 1/2” gap. No squeaking, even on rough roads and trails.
Yeah, I still have a gap from the top as the instructions state, but it seemed to make sense to rest it on the lip to hold it in place. I probably should cut it off like you said. I will see if I can do it without removing the bumper hopefully.
 
I just ordereed one of these bumpers and I also ordered Rigid pod lights. Maybe I missed a post. Any cutting needed to fit these lights?
 
I just ordereed one of these bumpers and I also ordered Rigid pod lights. Maybe I missed a post. Any cutting needed to fit these lights?
Where on the bumper were you thinking of using the Rigid pods? I don’t recall the exact dimensions of the holes I filled with these lights (shown in photo) but I’m pretty sure the Rigid lights would not fit well there. Also, if you’re planning on running a winch there’s not much room in the face of the bumper for lights as well. Flush mount lights really felt like the only option to me (As seen in the photo). i ground down a bit on the lights cooling fins to get them to fit without cutting into the bumper, though I had to drill and tap bolt holes for the lights.

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Thank you!! Exactly what I’m looking for.

That looks very nice!!

Do you have a separate switch for the 9” spots?
Yes I custom made a switch for the spots on ch4x4.com. I wired the Rigids into my oem fog light wiring and switch. If I were to do it over I would wire up an old school foot switch on the foot rest so I could turn them on and off hands free. The lights really come in handy when you’re in the country and you need to see deer that might be on the side of the road/highway
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Just bought one, price and packaging is top notch. I bought it from autoanything for $895 and $185 for the winch plate. With a first time purchase 15% off coupon, it came out to $760.75 for the bumper and $155 for the winch plate. Under $1100 shipped what a deal. I wanted a bumper that didn’t look like it belonged in a mad max movie. Here’s the picture of the packaging for those interested in buying one. Shipping was super fast. It was expected 1 month after ordering and I received it exactly 1 week after order.
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I am ready to pull the trigger on a front bumper. I've largely landed on the ARB Deluxe, but was also looking at the Ironman Classic with the 25% discount. I've always loved the simple, clean looks of the T17. But I am concerned about winch capacity. Upper end appears to be a 9500 lb winch (TJM or Warn recommended). Isn't that a little lower than what we should be running for effective self- and other-recovery?
 
there is actually enough space for my old TJM 12k winch, which is bigger than the normal 12k harbor freight winch. It is a huge cavity and the mounting points of the winch plate has multiple locations.
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Since this thread seems to be the place for TJM T17 bumper talk...

First issue: I have a 99 LX that has a Toyota winch. Now trying to install this new bumper, I've found that the frame end caps with captive nuts - I think some call them horns - were cut off to install the winch-specific intrusion beam, so I can't perform step 12 of the installation instructions. Anybody know if those end caps can be found somewhere other than a scrap vehicle? Or if the bumper is fine without those since it has several other connecting points? I sent a note to TJM via their website asking about this.

Second issue: I can't tell if the "center guard" is still used when installing a winch? It seems like that guard interferes with a winch installation but I see no mention of scrapping it in the TJM winch plate installation instructions.

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Since this thread seems to be the place for TJM T17 bumper talk...

First issue: I have a 99 LX that has a Toyota winch. Now trying to install this new bumper, I've found that the frame end caps with captive nuts - I think some call them horns - were cut off to install the winch-specific intrusion beam, so I can't perform step 12 of the installation instructions. Anybody know if those end caps can be found somewhere other than a scrap vehicle? Or if the bumper is fine without those since it has several other connecting points? I sent a note to TJM via their website asking about this.

Second issue: I can't tell if the "center guard" is still used when installing a winch? It seems like that guard interferes with a winch installation but I see no mention of scrapping it in the TJM winch plate installation instructions.

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My guess is you are going to need to weld a piece on or your are going full custom :p.
 
Since this thread seems to be the place for TJM T17 bumper talk...

First issue: I have a 99 LX that has a Toyota winch. Now trying to install this new bumper, I've found that the frame end caps with captive nuts - I think some call them horns - were cut off to install the winch-specific intrusion beam, so I can't perform step 12 of the installation instructions. Anybody know if those end caps can be found somewhere other than a scrap vehicle? Or if the bumper is fine without those since it has several other connecting points? I sent a note to TJM via their website asking about this.

Second issue: I can't tell if the "center guard" is still used when installing a winch? It seems like that guard interferes with a winch installation but I see no mention of scrapping it in the TJM winch plate installation instructions.

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I would check that LC supermarket in the cloud called Partsouq.com using your vin and see if those caps are available. If so, order a pair and have them welded back in place. If not, get someone to fabricate something that’ll work out of 3/16” material and weld it in. Mine were bent and I hammered them back into place so that the bumper would fit, which worked fine. Either way, try to make something work there.

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My guess is you are going to need to weld a piece on or your are going full custom :p.
I would check that LC supermarket in the cloud called Partsouq.com
Thanks...

Partsouq is almost always my go-to. When I searched yesterday while I was tired and annoyed (and come to think of it I had just donated blood) I had no luck. But today the thinker kicked into gear and I found the parts on partsouq. PS would be delayed so I ordered them from Lexus of Mobile.

Now to find someone to weld 'er up...

Part numbers and diagram for future searchers:
REINFORCEMENT, SIDE RAIL, FRONT RIGHT
5114360070
REINFORCEMENT, SIDE RAIL, FRONT LEFT
5114460060

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I'm thinking of getting this same rigid series. Is it possible to take the amber cover on and off without having to reposition them? Looks like it might be a tight fit.
No you can’t remove the covers with the way I mounted mine. You have to unmount them to get to the covers.
 
No you can’t remove the covers with the way I mounted mine. You have to unmount them to get to the covers.
Thanks to everyone for their help over the last few months and answering my questions. I finished my TJM bumper install this week. Before installing, I had it painted to match the body color as I wanted everything to look as close to how factory might look. Here are a couple of pics. I installed the Rigid Cube lights I already had inside the bumper. I didn’t want to drill any more holes so I used a magnetic mount. It is rated for 150lbs per mount. I figured it should hold it pretty well. It does so far and during my testing I put it on the bumper without the light attached. Don’t do that, those magnets are very strong and I barely could get the mount off. I used the existing turn signal light wires and spliced them to wiring provided by TJM.

I replaced the bulbs that TJM provided with new LED bulbs in the housing. One of those includes a resistor so no need to add a resistor separately and they are very bright. The ground wire is the grey factory wire with a stripe on it. Same applies to the fog light wires. For the fog lights I just bought a Deutsch female connectors on amazon and soldered them to existing factory wiring. Now they plug into the factory Rigid light harness. Finally, I put a wire loom around each wire group to protect it from chaffing and zip tied everything underneath.

I did cut under the lights for my LX since it allowed it to fit tighter to the body. The hard part was the effort to get that sheet metal off and the drilling of the holes for the final bolts . The space is quite limited
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under the bumper.
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