ARCHIVE Titan TW12 - 12,000 lbs winch w/ synthetic line (Group Buy)

[Layonnn]

Did not see the total weight of this winch

My "shipped weight" with the winch and a tree saver strap(probably no more than 4-5lbs) is 62lbs. This includes the packaging material also.

 

[KimoSabe]

My "shipped weight" with the winch and a tree saver strap(probably no more than 4-5lbs) is 62lbs. This includes the packaging material also.

thanks...about 55-60 lbs.

 

[Supra88]

How to clock the gearbox: (NOTE: change made to step #7)

1. Engage handle to freespool.
2. Set winch upright on motor end.
3. Remove 2 allen bolts from tie bar gear box end.
4. Remove gear box by lifting up from tie bars.
5. 10 black machine screws will be seen on the foot housing.
6. Remove the ten machine screws that hold the foot housing to the gear box housing.
7. Turn foot housing 108 degrees (you can't rotate it exactly 90) from bottom so handle faces upright and very slightly forward when installed feet forward.
8. Make sure rubber gasket machine screw holes are lined up for the 10 machine screws to go through and hold gasket in place for correct seal.
9. Install machine screws working on opposite sides to secure foot mount level to gear housing. (similar to tightening lug nuts on wheel)
10. Make sure gear box drive shaft is set in brake. (in the opposite end of drum by motor)
11. Position gear box back over shaft and turn until shaft engages onto sun gear. (this can be seen as the base plate will line up and touch the tie rod)
12. Tighten allen bolt through foot housing onto tie rod ends.

It sounds like a lot more work than it actually is.

Great write up - Thanks!

 

[Supra88]

Deleted.

 

[pfran42]

Did you mean 90 degrees instead of 45 degrees by chance?

You may be correct. I would eyeball that part when actually doing the mod. I basically just forwarded your question to Duncan and copied his answer into this thread. I'll check to be sure.

 

[Supra88]

Deleted - redundant.

 

[pfran42]

Actually - you can go 72 or 108 degrees. Neither are directly on top - choose whether you want tilting slightly forward or slightly back. Slightly forward - 3 holes may be the way to go.

Just heard back from Duncan and you were right. I will update the directions. Thanks for the attention to detail!

Is slightly forward the 108 degree option?

 

[Supra88]

Yes. I'm snapping pics as I go forward with the install. It looks like there's plenty of room in the ARB bull 03+ for the handle to go slightly forward - it should make for very easy access to the clutch handle.

 

[jonharis]

Shipped. Shipping $110 to Colorado. I traded the deflators and fairlead for a tree saver. Sweet deal.

 

[Supra88]

I paid 100 CND to ship across the river to Michigan. WTF? Still a great deal.

 

[pfran42]

If you think about it, it is still a great deal at pre/post group-buy prices. I was playing around with configuring an online order for an m8000, 9.5xp, m1200, and a few Ramseys, Superwinches, and Smittybuilts. Titan was best value no matter how I worked it. Even if you think 12,000 lbs is overkill for your rig, if it fits in the space of an m8000, is built better, pulls more, and is cheaper (comparatively), why would you choose something else?

 

[Supra88]

Excuse me for a newbie dumb question - how does one get the winch hook on the correct side of the fair lead?

 

[80t0ylc]

Excuse me for a newbie dumb question - how does one get the winch hook on the correct side of the fair lead?

Take it off the synthetic line, feed the line through the fairlead and re-attach hook on the correct side.
Edit: Well, that might not work after looking at the pix early in this thread. What fair lead do you have - roller or hawse?

 

[pfran42]

What 80t0ylc said. Sort of. Completely unspool the line and disconnect the attachment to the drum. Then run that end through the roller or hawse and reverse the process.

You want to get to this point, then disconnect the line from the drum and feed it through the hawse/roller.

 

[80t0ylc]

What 80t0ylc said. Sort of. Completely unspool the line and disconnect the attachment to the drum. Then run that end through the roller or hawse and reverse the process.

You want to get to this point, then disconnect the line from the drum and feed it through the hawse/roller.

If he's got a roller fair lead, he can just pull the retaining ring off one end of a horizontal roller. Then slide the pin out of the other end to allow the roller to move out of the way and push the hook through. Then re-install the roller, pin and retaining ring.
Edit: The roller fairlead that came with my HF had retaining rings, but looking at the pic in post #1, It may be necessary to do it the way you said.

 

[pfran42]

If he's got a roller fair lead, he can just pull the retaining ring off one end of a horizontal roller. Then slide the pin out of the other end to allow the roller to move out of the way and push the hook through. Then re-install the roller, pin and retaining ring.

Correct, but Duncan shipped the package with the aluminum hawse as the default fairhead. In the event an order was changed and the buyer opted for the rollers then Tom's (80t0ylc) instructions are the way to go.

 

[Supra88]

Ok - I have the hawse, so I'll unspool. When I clocked the gear box 108 degrees I had difficulty nesting the gearbox back on the spool. At first I thought it wasn't set correctly, but no matter what I did it didn't sit flush on the tie bars. I finally just cranked down the allen bolts, but the spool seems slightly cockeyed. When I release the clutch to pull out rope it is very difficult. Any suggestions?

 

[pfran42]

Ok - I have the hawse, so I'll unspool. When I clocked the gear box 108 degrees I had difficulty nesting the gearbox back on the spool. At first I thought it wasn't set correctly, but no matter what I did it didn't sit flush on the tie bars. I finally just cranked down the allen bolts, but the spool seems slightly cockeyed. When I release the clutch to pull out rope it is very difficult. Any suggestions?

From Duncan:

Paul, please tell supra88 that he cannot force the bolts in, it has to sit flush, the shaft is either not in the brake end or the poly carbon bushing is sitting properly, if it is done correctly it does sit flush, if he forces it it will bind and that is not good.

- Sent from a very small supercomputer.

 

[Supra88]

I'm not sure how you can do this "wrong"? What would cause it to not sit flush on the tie bars? It actually is rocking back and forth like one side is higher than the other. Any tips from Duncan to remedy this?

 

[Supra88]

See attached pics - the housing rocks into place flush, but the barrel is not square to the housing. Ok? Or should I do something different?