TIS Techstream - Customization Options for LC200

[KLF]

OK, my kit arrived today. My "garage computer" is an 8 year old Dell Latitude laptop, but it is running 64-bit Windows 10, so I installed on that. It's the only laptop we have left at home that still has a CD drive (which fortunately still worked). I will say that there are NO printed instructions provided in the package, everything is on the little CD. But the instructions are TERRIBLE. For instance, there is a file in the root of the CD called "!!!READ ME!!!.txt". The file has instructions telling you which version to install if you are running a 32-bit or a 64-bit OS, but it points to folders on the CD that don't exist! There is another .txt file with instructions for the 64-bit install, it's pretty crude and also points to files and folders that don't exist or have different names. I was able to go through it and get everything installed, no weird devices showed up in Device Manager. However, the first time I connected it to the truck it refused to to communicate, nothing worked no matter what I tried. Finally rebooted the laptop, reconnected everything, and it started talking right away.

It took me awhile to figure out how to make customization changes, but I got there, made changes, tested, and it worked! Yaaaay!! No more of the wheel tele/tilt each time the truck starts/stops (so annoying!), changed a few other things, so I'm happy.

Tomorrow I will be brave and try to reprogram my dead fob. Then I'll give it a try with the '13 IS and the old '04 Highlander, see how it works.

Oh, there's this weird thingy in the package, I have no idea what it's for. There's double-sided foam tape on the back. Any ideas?

 

[NC237]

Looks like a drawer pull or handle of sorts. Although the inner ring looks a bit too sharp for that.

OK, my kit arrived today. My "garage computer" is an 8 year old Dell Latitude laptop, but it is running 64-bit Windows 10, so I installed on that. It's the only laptop we have left at home that still has a CD drive (which fortunately still worked). I will say that there are NO printed instructions provided in the package, everything is on the little CD. But the instructions are TERRIBLE. For instance, there is a file in the root of the CD called "!!!READ ME!!!.txt". The file has instructions telling you which version to install if you are running a 32-bit or a 64-bit OS, but it points to folders on the CD that don't exist! There is another .txt file with instructions for the 64-bit install, it's pretty crude and also points to files and folders that don't exist or have different names. I was able to go through it and get everything installed, no weird devices showed up in Device Manager. However, the first time I connected it to the truck it refused to to communicate, nothing worked no matter what I tried. Finally rebooted the laptop, reconnected everything, and it started talking right away.

It took me awhile to figure out how to make customization changes, but I got there, made changes, tested, and it worked! Yaaaay!! No more of the wheel tele/tilt each time the truck starts/stops (so annoying!), changed a few other things, so I'm happy.

Tomorrow I will be brave and try to reprogram my dead fob. Then I'll give it a try with the '13 IS and the old '04 Highlander, see how it works.

Oh, there's this weird thingy in the package, I have no idea what it's for. There's double-sided foam tape on the back. Any ideas?

View attachment 1483554

 

[FDMD]

Anybody confirm if this kit allows reprogramming of the daytime running light to the LED strip instead of just the low beam bulbs on the 2016-2017 model?

 

[luke27617]

Anybody confirm if this kit allows reprogramming of the daytime running light to the LED strip instead of just the low beam bulbs on the 2016-2017 model?

Unfortunately not able based on playing with techstream. Looks like the non-us version does more as the led strip runs in a higher power as DRL. We get only the low power. Maybe headlights are slightly different as well.

 

[NC237]

AFAIK on the US versions the led strip is powered by the same wire/source/control as the "parking" lights. If that's true it means there is no way to have the LED strip on without the side markers and tail lights.

The workaround is just flip the lights to be on all the time- they shut off when the engine cycles off.

I believe the parking lights act the same way if one didn't want the low beam HID ballasts/LEDs on all the time. But if the stalk is set to parking lights the main lights won't come on at dark- so warning there as you'd have to then go manual for operation.

Techstream can be used to disable the DRLs if one doesn't want the dimmed high beams on all the time too.

I just have the lights be in the on position all the time so the LED strip is lit. Not ideal but it helps get around the Toyota dumb/cheapness factor. As others have said- Lexus gets the bling and LC doesn't.

Anybody confirm if this kit allows reprogramming of the daytime running light to the LED strip instead of just the low beam bulbs on the 2016-2017 model?

 

[luke27617]

AFAIK on the US versions the led strip is powered by the same wire/source/control as the "parking" lights. If that's true it means there is no way to have the LED strip on without the side markers and tail lights.

The workaround is just flip the lights to be on all the time- they shut off when the engine cycles off.

I believe the parking lights act the same way if one didn't want the low beam HID ballasts/LEDs on all the time. But if the stalk is set to parking lights the main lights won't come on at dark- so warning there as you'd have to then go manual for operation.

Techstream can be used to disable the DRLs if one doesn't want the dimmed high beams on all the time too.

I just have the lights be in the on position all the time so the LED strip is lit. Not ideal but it helps get around the Toyota dumb/cheapness factor. As others have said- Lexus gets the bling and LC doesn't.

Problem with running on parking is they are still in low power mode/dimmed, which pretty much makes them useless and looks weird comparing to everything else on the market. It would be interesting to see of the module of the headlight can be imported from outside US.

 

[NC237]

Would be nice.

 

[beretta]

Every time I start my car, the HVAC turns automatically to AUTO. Can I change this TIS?

 

[KLF]

Need some help. These instructions are awful.

Trying to re-program one of my key fobs that went dead a few weeks ago when I changed the battery. I know the battery is good, as I swapped it into the other remote. Fob does nothing, it's like it's bricked. It did work prior to changing the battery.

Using Techstream 12.00.127. 2011 URJ200. Connects no problem, I am able to make customization changes. I'm mostly concerned that I will do something that will leave the truck disabled in my garage, unable to start. I do have one working fob.

First question: Do I need to do a Smart Code Reset? The instructions provided tell you how to do this, but it doesn't say WHY you would want to do this. Won't this erase all the fob registrations?

Second question: the beginning of the wizard warns that you need "Smart Cancel function is OFF". I have looked everywhere, I can't find this setting. No idea what it means or how to check it.

I go to the Smart Key section, click on Utility, and run the Smart Code Registration. This is a nice wizard that slowly steps you though the process, explaining that you need to keep the fobs separated and start with both of them out of the vehicle (with nice images). I start the process, hold the good fob to the ignition switch, and get a "beep". Good so far. Get it out of the car, get the other fob, hold it up to the switch... nothing. No beep. Eventually the wizard times out, with lots of possible errors.

Am I missing a step? Or is this fob toast?

 

[NC237]

Don't do the smart code reset. That will erase all codes from the system. To do the reset you'd also need a PASS code based on the VIN.
This code is supposed to be restricted to dealers and locksmiths via online TIS. I say supposed to because I've seen code generators floating around.

Sounds like the fob is toast since you get no beep. My guess is when it went dead- it wasn't the battery. It died from something else and the natural thing was the swap the battery for a new one.

When you press the buttons does the red light blink? The light is hard to see on the silver plastic remotes- but it's located at about the 10 o'clock position just above and to the left of the lock button. If the light blinks then the fob is getting power. If not and the battery is good- it's probably toast.

Also the remote may lock/unlock via button press but may not do any of the proximity functions. This is also a good sign that the remote is okay but the Smart Key Programming is at issue.

Need some help. These instructions are awful.

Trying to re-program one of my key fobs that went dead a few weeks ago when I changed the battery. I know the battery is good, as I swapped it into the other remote. Fob does nothing, it's like it's bricked. It did work prior to changing the battery.

Using Techstream 12.00.127. 2011 URJ200. Connects no problem, I am able to make customization changes. I'm mostly concerned that I will do something that will leave the truck disabled in my garage, unable to start. I do have one working fob.

First question: Do I need to do a Smart Code Reset? The instructions provided tell you how to do this, but it doesn't say WHY you would want to do this. Won't this erase all the fob registrations?

Second question: the beginning of the wizard warns that you need "Smart Cancel function is OFF". I have looked everywhere, I can't find this setting. No idea what it means or how to check it.

I go to the Smart Key section, click on Utility, and run the Smart Code Registration. This is a nice wizard that slowly steps you though the process, explaining that you need to keep the fobs separated and start with both of them out of the vehicle (with nice images). I start the process, hold the good fob to the ignition switch, and get a "beep". Good so far. Get it out of the car, get the other fob, hold it up to the switch... nothing. No beep. Eventually the wizard times out, with lots of possible errors.

Am I missing a step? Or is this fob toast?

 

[KLF]

Thank you, this was very helpful.

I was not aware these remotes had red lights in them, as I keep silicone covers on them. I get a good light on the working remote, but no light on the dead one. So I guess that confirms it's fried.

Off to eBay to find a new one, fortunately I already have the key cut, so I just need a fob.

 

[NC237]

If the one on eBay has been paired to a car before you'll have to go through the Smart Code Reset to use it.
The kit you bought may have come with the PASS code generator utility on the disc. But without that PASS code one can't pair smart keys that have been paired before.

Many advertise remotes on eBay as "Virgin" to imply they have never been paired before. But being eBay its hit or miss.

The part number for a 2011 will be 8990460770

Here's a link to a new one just for reference-
Transmitter for 2011 Toyota Land Cruiser|89904-60770 : Toyota Online Parts | Genuine Toyota parts | Toyota Parts Online | Toyota Parts

Thank you, this was very helpful.

I was not aware these remotes had red lights in them, as I keep silicone covers on them. I get a good light on the working remote, but no light on the dead one. So I guess that confirms it's fried.

Off to eBay to find a new one, fortunately I already have the key cut, so I just need a fob.

 

[KLF]

OK, now I re-read the instructions and this makes sense. Yes, apparently there is a PASS CODE calculator utility provided, but I'd rather not mess with that.

And I agree that eBay is not worth the risk, I've been burned a couple of times on things there. $123 isn't too bad (considering), there are some on eBay that want more than that and like you say, no guarantee that they are "virgin". I've used that vendor for parts in the past and they were great. I like how they force you to do a VIN check for compatibility. I'll give them a try.

Thanks again!!

 

[Fasternfaster]

OK, my kit arrived today. My "garage computer" is an 8 year old Dell Latitude laptop, but it is running 64-bit Windows 10, so I installed on that. It's the only laptop we have left at home that still has a CD drive (which fortunately still worked). I will say that there are NO printed instructions provided in the package, everything is on the little CD. But the instructions are TERRIBLE. For instance, there is a file in the root of the CD called "!!!READ ME!!!.txt". The file has instructions telling you which version to install if you are running a 32-bit or a 64-bit OS, but it points to folders on the CD that don't exist! There is another .txt file with instructions for the 64-bit install, it's pretty crude and also points to files and folders that don't exist or have different names. I was able to go through it and get everything installed, no weird devices showed up in Device Manager. However, the first time I connected it to the truck it refused to to communicate, nothing worked no matter what I tried. Finally rebooted the laptop, reconnected everything, and it started talking right away.

It took me awhile to figure out how to make customization changes, but I got there, made changes, tested, and it worked! Yaaaay!! No more of the wheel tele/tilt each time the truck starts/stops (so annoying!), changed a few other things, so I'm happy.

Tomorrow I will be brave and try to reprogram my dead fob. Then I'll give it a try with the '13 IS and the old '04 Highlander, see how it works.

Oh, there's this weird thingy in the package, I have no idea what it's for. There's double-sided foam tape on the back. Any ideas?

View attachment 1483554

That ring thing is supposed to attach to the back of your cellphone. Some people like it.. It lets you hold your phone more securely with one finger in the ring, and it can be used as a stand ir a car mount if you have a little hook...

I haven't tried it yet myself as i like my phone to be smooth on the back.

 

[KLF]

Thanks for solving the mystery. Having that thing on the back of my phone with just get in the way. I wonder why they put that in the package?

 

[NC237]

Looks sharp too- not sure I would stick my finger in there.

 

[KLF]

Problem solved. Ordered a new fob from McGeorge ($133 with shipping), had it in 2 days. Programmed this morning no problem, very easy. Cable/software kit just paid for itself, I'm sure a dealer would have charged a lot more for programming, even though it really took me about 2 minutes.

 

[tarheel40]

Finally got my cable and software thru a vendor on amazon, the cable looks fine but unfortunately the software is for a 32 bit OS. I'm decent with computers but the instructions I've found for getting the 32 bit software to run on a 64 bit OS look a bit over my head. Is there a straightforward, free way place online to download the techstream software for a 64 bit OS or should I just bit the bullet and pay $55 for a 2 day trial thru the official website?

 

[NC237]

The issue isn't teachstream. It's the drivers are 32-bit for the USB cable. WinXP 32-bit or Win7 32-bit.

If it was me I'd get a "shop" laptop that was running a 32-bit OS.
i.e. Dell Latitude 2120 Netbook 1.66GHz 1.67GHz 250GB 2GB WEBCAM Windows 7 Pro 32-Bit | eBay

But first- here is a post where one found a method for installing on 64-bit. Might give this a try...

Techstream TIS VCI Installation Guide (64-bit OS) Including All Software Needed! - Scion FR-S Forum | Subaru BRZ Forum | Toyota 86 GT 86 Forum | AS1 Forum - FT86CLUB

 

[tarheel40]

The issue isn't teachstream. It's the drivers are 32-bit for the USB cable. WinXP 32-bit or Win7 32-bit.

If it was me I'd get a "shop" laptop that was running a 32-bit OS.
i.e. Dell Latitude 2120 Netbook 1.66GHz 1.67GHz 250GB 2GB WEBCAM Windows 7 Pro 32-Bit | eBay

But first- here is a post where one found a method for installing on 64-bit. Might give this a try...

Techstream TIS VCI Installation Guide (64-bit OS) Including All Software Needed! - Scion FR-S Forum | Subaru BRZ Forum | Toyota 86 GT 86 Forum | AS1 Forum - FT86CLUB

Thank you for the advice, can't believe you can buy a lap top for $59! I came across the 2nd link you posted last night and figured out it was a driver issue, may be worth a try but the thread is several years old now so not sure if everything still works - Dropbox acted like some files were not available for download anymore.

The techsteam lite site lists under the PC requirements that you can use a 64 bit OS, so I assume they have a different driver available?