Tire rabbit hole - 285/70r18 | 285/75/r17 need some details confirmed (1 Viewer)

[themanwithnoname]

So, I've fully gone down the tire rabbit hole, read every thread (almost!), and I think I've landed on something, but still need to iron out some details.

I plan to use my 200 about 80/20 road/off-road. Trips will be anything from a planned trip to the Arctic Circle from New Mexico next summer, to drives down Baja to Todos Santos, and general trails in the four corners area. Not necessarily hard-core rock crawling, but some trails where extra clearance will come in handy. I'd love to take the 200 over Steele Pass in Death Valley, but, it might be too wide for that!

I'm expecting to make the usual adjustments to inner fenders, mudflaps, see where I end up wrt kdss relo etc.

I'm going to upgrade the suspension as well, not a huge lift, but definitely something to handle extra weight (bumper, winch, skid plates, camping gear).

From everything I've read, a tire just under 34" adds some clearance, requires some mods to fit depending on wheel offset and seems like a good setup for the 200.

So, my questions, and if these have been answered dozens of times, I'm sorry, I'm probably overwhelmed after reading a few hundred threads and replies:

285/70r18 - can I use my stock 18" wheels? I've read that people recommend 1" wheel spacers if I try to use the stock wheels. Not a fan of wheel spacers. Thoughts?

or

285/75r17 - I like the idea of taller sidewalls, I ran 255/85r17 on my JK Wrangler Rubicon for 10 years, so, I'm used to highway driving on tires with a tall sidewall.
- wheels? Are Rock Warriors the choice for that size? Or, perhaps the Evo Corse with +40 offset.

Thanks!

 

[RTaylor]

I just went up to 285/70r18 on stock wheels. My setup: +2” up front, SPC UCAs, appropriately trimmed fenders and flaps.

Yes, they rub: KDSS arms at full turn (noticeably), the UCAs at full drop, maybe a piece of the frame at full lock.

More offset is ideal, but so far I am living with it. I’m anti spacers. I haven’t found a wheel yet. I’m not comfortable with changing the KDSS arm brackets yet.

After 10 years on 285/65r18s, I’ve also noticed the following: gas mileage down, slower acceleration from stop and harder highway acceleration. But they look great.

If I was starting over from stock for my use case, I’d stick with 285/65r18 or 275/70r18 and a light OME/Bilstein setup. It’s simple and still road friendly.

 

[TLC2013]

I have both sizes and can share some insight.

LT285/75r17: TOYO AT3 (E) on a 35mm offset wheel. Slight rub to the KDSS sway bar at full lock. May at some point do the relocation bracket/set up but not necessary.

LT285/70R18: Yokohama MT G003 on a 25mm offset wheel. Clears the KDSS bar more with the lower offset compared to the 35mm.

The 17” tire / wheel combo when aired down flexes better over rocks and terrain. Highway driving isn’t as precise feeling, I can feel a weee bit more sidewall flex, roll over with the LT285/75r17 l during high speed turns and on windy roads.

Until recently all of the LT285/70r18s were e rated until falken released their new AT4w so that’s something to consider.
There are more options in tire size and load range with the 17”s.

Keep the offset between 25mm-35mm and either size will fit with some plastic fender liner molding and trimming as needed. With that said this will require spacers to achieve this offset with the factory wheels.

 

[themanwithnoname]

Thanks to both @RTaylor and @TLC2013 - very helpful comments. I'm leaning towards the 285/75r17, I'm used to the effects of larger tires on road feel and mileage. Helps to know that stock wheels are best with stock tire size! Thanks again.

 

[TimCFJ40]

I just went up to 285/70r18 on stock wheels. My setup: +2” up front, SPC UCAs, appropriately trimmed fenders and flaps.

Yes, they rub: KDSS arms at full turn (noticeably), the UCAs at full drop, maybe a piece of the frame at full lock.

More offset is ideal, but so far I am living with it. I’m anti spacers. I haven’t found a wheel yet. I’m not comfortable with changing the KDSS arm brackets yet.

After 10 years on 285/65r18s, I’ve also noticed the following: gas mileage down, slower acceleration from stop and harder highway acceleration. But they look great.

If I was starting over from stock for my use case, I’d stick with 285/65r18 or 275/70r18 and a light OME/Bilstein setup. It’s simple and still road friendly.

I've avoided the 34 rabbit hole so far for those reasons. Another thought about either of the 34" options is the availability of tires in far off locations. I'd personally go with a 285/70R17 (and have) because they're almost everywhere and a VERY common tire size. I wouldn't bet on a tire shop in the Arctic or in Mexico having a 285/70R18 or a 285/75R17 on hand, but more than likely they would have a 285/70R17.

 

[themanwithnoname]

I've avoided the 34 rabbit hole so far for those reasons. Another thought about either of the 34" options is the availability of tires in far off locations. I'd personally go with a 285/70R17 (and have) because they're almost everywhere and a VERY common tire size. I wouldn't bet on a tire shop in the Arctic or in Mexico having a 285/70R18 or a 285/75R17 on hand, but more than likely they would have a 285/70R17.

I drove the JKU Rubicon to Panama and back on 255/85r17, have also driven to Todos Santos in Baja multiple times. Not a common tire size, and in fact on the Panama trip I had the same tire patched three times. So, totally get your point, but what I found, at least I did 10 years ago, is that I could find stock Toyota sizes like 265/70r17, absolutely no 255/nnr17, and a bunch of 16" tires. The next trip I take, which will be the arctic circle, will probably just bring two spares.

 

[themanwithnoname]

I have both sizes and can share some insight.

LT285/75r17: TOYO AT3 (E) on a 35mm offset wheel. Slight rub to the KDSS sway bar at full lock. May at some point do the relocation bracket/set up but not necessary.

LT285/70R18: Yokohama MT G003 on a 25mm offset wheel. Clears the KDSS bar more with the lower offset compared to the 35mm.

The 17” tire / wheel combo when aired down flexes better over rocks and terrain. Highway driving isn’t as precise feeling, I can feel a weee bit more sidewall flex, roll over with the LT285/75r17 l during high speed turns and on windy roads.

Until recently all of the LT285/70r18s were e rated until falken released their new AT4w so that’s something to consider.
There are more options in tire size and load range with the 17”s.

Keep the offset between 25mm-35mm and either size will fit with some plastic fender liner molding and trimming as needed. With that said this will require spacers to achieve this offset with the factory wheels.

Following up on 17" wheel choices - trying to decide between the 35mm and 25mm offset. I'm leaning towards the Icon Rebound +25mm offset.

Am I pushing the offset to far out with 285/75r17 KO3's? Oh, and decided on the KO3's.

Reason I'm thinking the Icon Rebounds, is I can get the whole thing done with Discount Tire - ordering both wheels and tires - rather than chasing multiple sources for it.

Keeping the stock rims for true snow tires for driving up to Colorado to ski. So, only one set of rims will have tpms I guess.

 

[TLC2013]

Following up on 17" wheel choices - trying to decide between the 35mm and 25mm offset. I'm leaning towards the Icon Rebound +25mm offset.

Am I pushing the offset to far out with 285/75r17 KO3's? Oh, and decided on the KO3's.

Reason I'm thinking the Icon Rebounds, is I can get the whole thing done with Discount Tire - ordering both wheels and tires - rather than chasing multiple sources for it.

Keeping the stock rims for true snow tires for driving up to Colorado to ski. So, only one set of rims will have tpms I guess.

The optimal offset calculator would say go with the 35mm and it will also provide better clearance for the tire from hitting the fender liner and the mud flaps at the rear of the wheel well (front). With that said after running both offsets I prefer 25mm, especially if there are plans to add a metal front bumper in the future, as front clearance won’t be an issue and the extra offset off the 25mm will better clear the kdss.

 

[themanwithnoname]

The optimal offset calculator would say go with the 35mm and it will also provide better clearance for the tire from hitting the fender liner and the mud flaps at the rear of the wheel well (front). With that said after running both offsets I prefer 25mm, especially if there are plans to add a metal front bumper in the future, as front clearance won’t be an issue and the extra offset off the 25mm will better clear the kdss.

Thanks! Yes, one of the reasons I want to upgrade the suspension is to carry an upgraded bumper front and rear, with a winch in front. I'm looking at full bumper replacements, I'd rather save the original bumper instead of cutting it.

Funny how quickly this went from, "I'll just drive it stock", to, "I'm going to add this and this and this....". Mainly because we decided to sell my ancient JKU Rubicon that I built with (now tiny on a Jeep) 35's.

 

[100kiwi]

A 200 fits on Steele Pass

 

[Artie]

I recently made the jump from OEM wheels 285/70 with 1.25 spacers to 17” Icon Rebound Pro 285/75 25mm offset and I prefer the Icons hands down. I swear they ride better, more planted and smoother and the extra sidewall is nice when airing down into the teens.

I looked hard at the Evo’s and found them in the 25mm offset but the cost for just those was as much as the icons with tires…. The Evo’s will remain the ones that got away but I’m happy with the Icons.

The Icon Pros have this type of bead lock bolt tech that does seem to work as advertised but it makes mounting tricky and requires a torque wrench in the 20lb range, which my local Discount didn’t have but they let me handle that part so that was nice.

 

[themanwithnoname]

A 200 fits on Steele Pass

Nice! I've only ever done it in a Jeep. Have you ever taken a 200 on Lippincott road? Over the past few decades that road has deteriorated dramatically, not sure what it looks like now.

 

[themanwithnoname]

I recently made the jump from OEM wheels 285/70 with 1.25 spacers to 17” Icon Rebound Pro 285/75 25mm offset and I prefer the Icons hands down. I swear they ride better, more planted and smoother and the extra sidewall is nice when airing down into the teens.

I looked hard at the Evo’s and found them in the 25mm offset but the cost for just those was as much as the icons with tires…. The Evo’s will remain the ones that got away but I’m happy with the Icons.

The Icon Pros have this type of bead lock bolt tech that does seem to work as advertised but it makes mounting tricky and requires a torque wrench in the 20lb range, which my local Discount didn’t have but they let me handle that part so that was nice.

Thanks for the info, really appreciate you sharing your experience. I considered the Rebound Pro, but I think I read in another thread about Discount Tire not wanting to install due to the bead lock bolts. I'd love to be able to deflate below 18-20psi, how far have you aired down with those wheels?

Also, I agree about the Evo price. I'm probably going Icon Rebound, not sure about going with Rebound Pro.

 

[TLC2013]

The method bead grip options are ones i really like. Ive been using thrm offroad and aired down in the single digits and they did great. Mounting and dismounting tires is a real chore and i know first hand discount tire loathes them

 

[Artie]

Thanks for the info, really appreciate you sharing your experience. I considered the Rebound Pro, but I think I read in another thread about Discount Tire not wanting to install due to the bead lock bolts. I'd love to be able to deflate below 18-20psi, how far have you aired down with those wheels?

Also, I agree about the Evo price. I'm probably going Icon Rebound, not sure about going with Rebound Pro.

I just had my first trip with this wheel/tire combo and was running 18 on the trails in Big Bend NP.

I would encourage you to check out the Apex rapid deflation valves since you’re making a change in the wheel department. This was also our first trip out with these and they are so worth the extra coin. Just something to consider while you’re there.

 

[themanwithnoname]

The method bead grip options are ones i really like. Ive been using thrm offroad and aired down in the single digits and they did great. Mounting and dismounting tires is a real chore and i know first hand discount tire loathes them

I've always wondered about the Method bead grip. I've heard so many pros/cons about Method wheels that I'm not sure what to think. Glad to hear you can air down to single digits. That's really where I'd like to be on certain trails. Which Methods did you get?

 

[themanwithnoname]

I just had my first trip with this wheel/tire combo and was running 18 on the trails in Big Bend NP.

I would encourage you to check out the Apex rapid deflation valves since you’re making a change in the wheel department. This was also our first trip out with these and they are so worth the extra coin. Just something to consider while you’re there.

I'll have to consider the Rebound Pros.

I've read about the Apex valves in other threads and definitely going to investigate those. Right now I use the ARB deflator, it was a gift from a long while back. Tempted to buy one of those 4 wheel inflator hose setups - though, I'm honestly fine just connecting the compressor to each wheel individually.

 

[Artie]

I'll have to consider the Rebound Pros.

I've read about the Apex valves in other threads and definitely going to investigate those. Right now I use the ARB deflator, it was a gift from a long while back. Tempted to buy one of those 4 wheel inflator hose setups - though, I'm honestly fine just connecting the compressor to each wheel individually.

I was using the ARB deflator, it’s good but the Apex are on another level in a different universe. Seriously, it’s 10 seconds per tire and none of the brass rubbing off on your hands like the ARB deflator… you’ll want some earplugs tho.

I also use the MORRFlate tire octopus inflator thing. Utah in the summer I’ll run it, especially if I’m airing up my camper as well. This last trip to Big Bend I was fine going tire to tire as it was pretty quick thanks to the Apex valves. They have a special high flow chuck you can buy and, while skeptical at first, I was surprised by its performance.

I am not paid for my opinion, those valves are just that good. Go through that thread tho as you’ll need new TPMS sensors.

The rebound pro’s weigh a little more so if you’re concerned about unsprung weight keep that in mind. I think their weight limit is higher and that was one of the reasons I went with them, my Cruiser is a little on the husky side and I tow off road a lot so I wanted something that could take more abuse.

 

[TLC2013]

I've always wondered about the Method bead grip. I've heard so many pros/cons about Method wheels that I'm not sure what to think. Glad to hear you can air down to single digits. That's really where I'd like to be on certain trails. Which Methods did you get?

I honestly haven’t heard of any recent negatives or issues with methods. Icon has seen a recent rash of cracks. Methods are made in China, disappointing, so I guess the opportunity for a bad batch is more probable than with others like the Evo Corse or Rock Warriors.
The challenges of getting the tire bead to seat can be a real issue for shops as the wheels lip is massive and has grooves, that make it hard to get the tire installed.
I have the MR701 (18x9 25mm offset)

 

[TLC2013]

You can see how pronounced the lip and grooves are. They really hold onto the bead when aired down.