Tire Pressures (11 Viewers)
- Thread starter JBHorne
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gaijin
GOLD Star
That would be the LT285/70R17 Load Range C 116/113Q tire, correct?
If so, the RCTIP (Recommended Cold* Tire Inflation Pressure) for those LT285/70R17 tires on your LC200 is 39psi Front / 41psi Rear.
* According to Toyota:
Tire Pressure vs. Tire Temperature
Tire temperature is dependent on “cold” tire pressure, driving distance and speed, ambient temperature and road surface temperature. As the temperature of the tire changes, air in the tire expands and contracts, changing the tire’s air pressure. The cold tire pressure for all Toyota models will vary and will need to be adjusted accordingly.
“Cold” tire pressure, as shown on the tire pressure label on our vehicles, is generally considered to be the pressure in a tire that has not been driven in the past 4 hours and has been parked outdoors.
HTH
Yes Thank you!
gaijin
GOLD Star
Sorry, beyond my purview.
You can try here: Tire Pressure Calculator
Or, if you want to fully understand the science behind the RCTIP, you can find all the info you need in an excellent monograph on the subject published by Toyo Tires here: Guidelines for the Application of Load and Inflation Tables
HTH
scottm
SILVER Star
@gaijin recommended 42psi for my Nokians, and I've run mostly that. They are slightly more harsh, wife doesn't care for that, so I cut down to 35psi sometimes. At 42psi, at highway speed, the truck tends to lose traction when going over small bumps. It can yaw slightly, or drift out in a curve, mostly the back end. I suspect the much heavier tires at higher pressure, overwhelm the damping and springs, and it takes a bounce cycle to stabilize. I anticipate it and it isn't unsafe, but could be on an icy day. At 35psi cold, there seems to be much less bounce.
I put these on in Oct 2021, probably 80k miles on them, and still showing the 60% and snow markings on the tread. Wearing well. They were marketed as commercial delivery truck tires, stiff and heavy.
I put these on in Oct 2021, probably 80k miles on them, and still showing the 60% and snow markings on the tread. Wearing well. They were marketed as commercial delivery truck tires, stiff and heavy.
^ yep, real-world use case is the best method for tire pressures. There is no one set best pressure for all brands, all weights, all conditions. The only caution would be shoulder wear from that pressure, but with those being snow tires and the amount of white roads you travel your treadwear on those will be very low. And I would much rather shave a few percents off the life of the tire than be in the ditch. My guess is at 35 you're still well within the load limit, but would be wise to double-check the inflation tables.
This is the first year we've gone from 3PMS to a true winter tire. Running studded Hakkapeliitta 10 on the Yukon XL and are very impressed. If it were deep snow I'd still prefer a floatation sized AT3W/AT4W but for highway use the Nokian is very competent.
This is the first year we've gone from 3PMS to a true winter tire. Running studded Hakkapeliitta 10 on the Yukon XL and are very impressed. If it were deep snow I'd still prefer a floatation sized AT3W/AT4W but for highway use the Nokian is very competent.
scottm
SILVER Star
I'm actually 90%+ highway, 175 miles around the bottom of Lake Michigan to O'Hare. Mostly dry and 75mph. The few times I'm running in challenging conditions, these tires have been amazing in slush and snow. As heavy as these tires are, I suspect they can handle this lower pressure without heating or internal layers breaking down. There is no perceptible sag with that pressure change.
This is with an ARB Deluxe bumper with no winch, tools and carp, scales out at 6,500#
Not sure if this is right thread to post or not; but I’m wondering what’s the safest/ lowest tire pressure I can run on my factory wheel and ko2 tire 285/55/R20 (load D) for heavy trail riding without fear of breaking bead? Stock weight. Currently running ~25 psi off-road and 38psi on-road. Thanks in advance!
@gaijin @TeCKis300
@gaijin @TeCKis300
Sorry for the late reply but playing catchup this week. The pressures your suggesting are about right. I would be cautious to go much lower from an experience with a buddies rig on the trail. It's one of the factors to why I recommend wider rubber.
Checking my assumptions, your setup is a 285/55R20 KO2 on a factory 20x8.5" wheels. Recommended wheel width for this tire size is 8 - 10". Generally for airing down and bead retention, you really want to be on the upper end of wheel width for a tire. Losing a bead can be a very real liability as you'll see.
My buddy ran a 275/55R20 KO2 on a 20x8" wheel. Recommended wheel width in that size is 7.5- 9.5". So similarly within .5" of the lower end of spec. We literally lost 3 tires off the bead in a matter of a couple miles. One tire completely destroyed doing a mild turn at speed. Fortunately we were able to get the bead back on the other two wheels when losing them over a technical pinch obstacle as he had no more spare at that point. He was running 20psi.
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Exactly the information I was seeking! And that is the exact scenario I’m trying to avoid. I have a feeling after these tires, I’ll be upgrading wheels. I just love the stock look
Thanks for your help!
Exactly the information I was seeking! And that is the exact scenario I’m trying to avoid. I have a feeling after these tires, I’ll be upgrading wheels. I just love the stock look
Thanks for your help!
Lots of love for stock wheels here too. Ran them for a number of years with increasingly aggressive rubber in 33s and 35s.
Wider is better - for bead retention (never lost a bead going down to low teens), ride comfort, handling/traction/braking.
