Tire and Wheel Question for new to me 77 (1 Viewer)

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I was hoping for some paint. Like an originalish gloss grey analog from a rattle can? My factory steelies are sporting ACE-brand grey primer. Easy to fix scratches because it is easy to sand and touch-up.

If it was my call, I'd say do a flat grey primer for the diamond plate, and a gloss grey on the wheels, minus the front hubs, rear hub caps, and acorn nuts. Or use the factory enamel color on the diamond plate. This way, the original vehicle stands-out amongst the aftermarket wheels and diamond plate skins.

The lack of white lettering on the new treads is an improvement in appearance.
Excellent suggestions. I may go down this road once I get all of the mechanical stuff dialed in. The shop that did the tires did all of the fluids including brake and clutch bleeding. I normally do this stuff, but just wanted it done. Next up is valve adjustment and to find a place to look at the alignment. At that point I'll have a good mechanical baseline.
 
If you aren’t going to change to a stock wheel, I’d say leave it be. Your current wheels work with the diamond plate accents.
I’m sure you’ll find plenty of other stuff to work on!
 
This thread seems to confirm that:
1. Stock-sized 6" steelies can fit 33x10 rubber under the fenders, but the LF wheel requires a 1/4" spacer
2. a 4" lift was already on the FJ receiving the 33s

Has anyone confirmed ample clearance for the same setup of 33s on an FJ without a lift?
 
I guess you could add a spacer, but you probably could adjust the wheel stops, so the tires don't interfere with the drag link and springs.
 
This thread seems to confirm that:
1. Stock-sized 6" steelies can fit 33x10 rubber under the fenders, but the LF wheel requires a 1/4" spacer
2. a 4" lift was already on the FJ receiving the 33s

Has anyone confirmed ample clearance for the same setup of 33s on an FJ without a lift?
I went to 33’s with a 2” lift initially and mine will stuff on all 4 corners so they should “fit” on a stock suspension but utility will depend on the intended use of the truck. You’ll be fine at cruisers and coffee but anything off-road may get a little more interesting, you will want to look at adjusting your bump stops with all that rubber and less room for suspension articulation. As @pb4ugo said you can adjust your steering stops to avoid the rub on the drag link at full left assuming the stock drag link is still in use which would eliminate the spacer. I only run the spacer in order to have the full use of my steering box, i.e. max out the turning radius.
 

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