Tips for removing snapped and very rusted bolts? (2 Viewers)

[jbnmt4r]

I'm in the process of trying to install some skid plates on my 4th gen and have run into a few snapped bolts that I'm unsure of how to remove.

The skid plates I have mount all the way to the back of the tranmission so the rear mounting point is using the cross member braces. There is one on each side 2 bolts on each giving a total of 4 bolts. I got 2 out no problem one on each side but the other two snapped almost immediately, soaked them a few times with pb blaster before attempting.

I then tried to remove the braces and all 4 of those bolts have snapped as well.

Unsure of the best way to get the removed and get everything put back together. Hoping to get this done before the Colorado trip.

 

[marcfj60]

Grind the broken face down so it's flat. Then use a center punch to mark the dead center of the bolt. Then drill a hole big enough to fit a typical screw extractor or EZ Out. If neither of those work, then I progressively but slowly increase the size of my drill bit until I have removed most of the center of the bolt but not the internal threads of the nut and then try to remove the remaining chunks of bolt with a chisel, punch, whatever works.

 

[jbnmt4r]

Grind the broken face down so it's flat. Then use a center punch to mark the dead center of the bolt. Then drill a hole big enough to fit a typical screw extractor or EZ Out. If neither of those work, then I progressively but slowly increase the size of my drill bit until I have removed most of the center of the bolt but not the internal threads of the nut and then try to remove the remaining chunks of bolt with a chisel, punch, whatever works.

This was about what I was thinking of doing but was curious if there were any other easier ways! Thanks!

 

[marcfj60]

I've never found an easier way. Profuse cussing after you break it off and then occasional cussing and grumbling while trying to remove them sometimes make me feel better about it. But neither actually make the job easier. If you have enough of the bolt left to grab with vice grips, after applying more PB Blaster, you can attempt to add some heat and see if it will release. You could also cut a slot in the end of the busted bolt and try to use one of these with the flathead bit attached.
Amazon product ASIN B000NPUJYE

 

[jbnmt4r]

May try both of those options, haven't tried heat yet but definitely going to give that a shot, as well as soaking in pb blaster for a bit

 

[pappy]

I've seen it suggested to use a left-hand drill bit. I've not tried it, nor have I tried shopping for one. McMaster-Carr might be an option.

 

[fliphkd778]

I've never done it, but I've seen people weld a nut onto the remaining bit. I could see the heat helping to free things up.

Left hand drill bits are awesome. I used one from McMaster as Pappy mentioned. My last removal was a torque-to-yield head bolt on a chevy. I made a jig out of hardwood using the head gasket as a guide and the other bolt holes to clamp it in place. The jig had a drill bushing to keep the left hand bit right on the center of the broken bolt. I kept drilling until the pitch suddenly changed and the bolt started to back out while stuck to the drill bit. It would be some effort but I could see making some sort of jig that clamps to the frame with a bushing. Free handing the drill would be an option as well.

My experience with easy-outs has been much better with the straight-fluted type. I seem to break off the twisty type about half of the time.

 

[jbnmt4r]

I've never done it, but I've seen people weld a nut onto the remaining bit. I could see the heat helping to free things up.

Left hand drill bits are awesome. I used one from McMaster as Pappy mentioned. My last removal was a torque-to-yield head bolt on a chevy. I made a jig out of hardwood using the head gasket as a guide and the other bolt holes to clamp it in place. The jig had a drill bushing to keep the left hand bit right on the center of the broken bolt. I kept drilling until the pitch suddenly changed and the bolt started to back out while stuck to the drill bit. It would be some effort but I could see making some sort of jig that clamps to the frame with a bushing. Free handing the drill would be an option as well.

My experience with easy-outs has been much better with the straight-fluted type. I seem to break off the twisty type about half of the time.

Awesome info here, thinking of trying to find a left hand drill bit and give that a shot.

 

[Quantumkiwi]

Can't be stuck if its a liquid...

 

[fliphkd778]

I ordered 2x of these for that head bolt: McMaster-Carr - https://www.mcmaster.com/29855A59/

I don't recall the high speed steel getting dull particularly fast but I do seem to remember using two on that one bolt. You might want to get a different diameter depending on your bolt's diameter.

 

[jbnmt4r]

I ordered 2x of these for that head bolt: McMaster-Carr - https://www.mcmaster.com/29855A59/

I don't recall the high speed steel getting dull particularly fast but I do seem to remember using two on that one bolt. You might want to get a different diameter depending on your bolt's diameter.

Do you recall the diameter of the bolt you were taking out? I know these ones that I need to get out are m8

 

[alia176]

I wonder if you can apply a large amount of heat, then use vise grips to turn them loose?

 

[Mauser]

I like to weld a nut on the bolt. The heat will break the rust loose.

 

[thegadgetguy]

Welding a nut on is by far the easiest method in my experience. I normally use bar stock with a hole drilled in it instead of a nut though - I've just found that to be a bit easier, for multiple reasons.

 

[alia176]

The thing to remember here is that the captive nuts that you can't see are held on with four, tiny welds. So, try not to go crazy by putting too much force on the broken bolt! If you break that captive nut loose and it's inside a frame member, you're in deep doodoo!

 

[Quantumkiwi]

The thing to remember here is that the captive nuts that you can't see are held on with four, tiny welds. So, try not to go crazy by putting too much force on the broken bolt! If you break that captive nut loose and it's inside a frame member, you're in deep doodoo!

This is exactly why I replaced all of my dinky M8 skidplate bolts (snapped 2, and 1 broken captive nut) with high grade M10 bolts.