Tips for Reinstalling Transmission/Transfer in '93 4-Runner with MT and 3VZE? (1 Viewer)

[4Cruisers]

I posted this in the '95 and Earlier Truck/4-Runner forum, but I thought I'd post this here as well.

After a lot of jockeying around, I was finally able to get the transmission installed to the point where the transmission input shaft has cleared the clutch splines. The gap between the engine and bellhousing is now down to about 3/8", so I'm thinking I'm at the pilot bearing. Or am I at the locating pins? The engine/bellhousing gap appears to be uniform.

Earlier I had test fit the pilot bearing on the input shaft, and it slipped on easily, so I don't think that's an issue.

Any tips or tricks to getting the shaft into the bearing? I do have a couple of stabbing bolts installed, and have loosely installed a couple of bolts. Do you think I can sequentially tighten the bolts to draw the two together?

 

[4Cruisers]

I'll try this tip from HZ(B)J44 Clutch Replacement Write Up - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/hz-b-j44-clutch-replacement-write-up.1270271/#post-14176614, Post #15:

"Once you are really close and you know you have it almost there... push the clutch in to release any tension/misalignment in the system."

I'll use a ratchet strap to pull the clutch fork back, hopefully this will help.

 

[John McVicker]

Do you think I can sequentially tighten the bolts to draw the two together?


No, DO NOT DO THIS. Too much chance for damage. Do as @4Cruisers suggest…wiggle it in, kind of fiddly but keep at it & it will stab in.

 

[OSS]

Everyone says “don’t draw in the last 1/4” gap of the transmission by pulling it in with bolts”
And that’s good advice — except when there’s no other option left.

I have pulled and installed a transmission into a FJ60 six times in my life (not all my vehicles) and four of the installs went in without a fuss. But two of them were not going in the last 1/4” no matter what tricks I used.

The only trick left was to VERY CAREFULLY pull in the transmission the last 1/4”-3/8” by ….. yes, CAREFULLY tightening up the mounting bolts a tiny bit at a time until they pulled it in flush.

Both times were successful (no broken ears) and there was no way I could get those two transmissions all the way in without using that method.

So the consensus is — don’t do it.
(Except when you’ve run out of all other options- then proceed exceeding carefully.

 

[John McVicker]

Yes, I agree with @OSS , but for the average bear, it’s best to make this a very, very, last resort. Keep wiggling it!

 

[4Cruisers]

That's exactly what transpired today. I tried everything I could - raised and supported the back of the engine with a small bottle jack, incrementally raised the rear of the transmission/transfer case a tiny amount at a time and wiggled it back and forth each time, then did the same on the way down. No dice. So I thought I'd try to close the gap with a couple of bolts. It seemed to work fine without any resistance, I even used a flexible extension on the first bolt to make sure I didn't over torque the bolt.

I forgot exactly what I did on my '90 4-Runner back more than 20 years ago, but I didn't seem to have quite as much trouble. Of course back then I was still shy of 50 years old, now I'm pushing 70. And back then I was working in a garage - here is what I was working in last night:

 

[4Cruisers]

I got to thinking (I know that's dangerous), after reading a few clutch disc orientation threads threads last night, about what I may have forgotten to do during reassembly. I'm 100% sure I got the disc in properly, but I know I didn't use any blue Loctite on the flywheel bolts. And I don't think I applied any grease to the front of the throwout bearing.

Should I go ahead and pull the transmission again? I haven't installed any clutch housing bolts, it's supported at the front by the temporary guide bolts. It wouldn't be the end of the world, but we do have a 40% chance of snow today.

 

[g-man]

To the OP, Don't forget to try wiggling the t/case side to side. Everyone thinks about up and down but not side to side.

 

[4Cruisers]

To the OP, Don't forget to try wiggling the t/case side to side. Everyone thinks about up and down but not side to side.

I did a lot of side to side wiggling as I raised and lowered the transmission.

 

[4Cruisers]

Opinions?

Is blue Loctite or equivalent necessary on the flywheel bolts? New OEM replacement bolts are pre-coated but I reused the old ones - I did torque them properly.

 

[marshcat]

Opinions?

Is blue Loctite or equivalent necessary on the flywheel bolts? New OEM replacement bolts are pre-coated but I reused the old ones - I did torque them properly.

Not what you want to hear, but just asking the question I think you know the answer. The torque specs account for that pre-coated loctite. Without it they could absolutely wiggle out.

 

[4Cruisers]

Not what you want to hear, but just asking the question I think you know the answer. The torque specs account for that pre-coated loctite. Without it they could absolutely wiggle out.

That's what I was thinking also.

 

[4Cruisers]

Well, the transmission is back out, I used a come-a-long to pull it back up the slightly sloped driveway. Nicer working conditions today with sunshine and a temperature of about 55 degrees.

Just as I thought, I neglected to apply grease to the front of the throwout bearing. Tomorrow morning I'll remove the clutch and flywheel, then reinstall with blue Loctite on the flywheel bolt threads. And hopefully I can get the transmission back in place and start to install bolts while I still have some daylight.