Timing chain tensioner

[OffGridOverland]

▲this▲

Have you tried heat?

I did try some heat. But my little propane job didn't get the required amount I don't think.

 

[Funner]

I did try some heat. But my little propane job didn't get the required amount I don't think.

You can get a bit more heat from MAP gas and it should work fine with your propane torch head. Home Depot has the little cylinders.

 

[OffGridOverland]

And it's off. 4ft bar, lots of heat, and my whole body weight bouncing on the end.
I had a friend lock up the torque converter with the 14 mm socket and hold it with ano the bar.

The pulley slid right off the crank. No puller required.

Front cover is unbolted. But looks like I'll need to drop the pans.
So in the morning. I'll drop the pan. Pull the covers. And I'm going to measure my bearings while I'm in there. If it's out of spec and I can. I'll roll new bearings into place.

 

[OffGridOverland]

 

[inkpot]

Looks like it was way over torqued. I don't see any indications of LockTight? So far I have never seen a pulley that did not slid off freely on a 1fz motor.

 

[OffGridOverland]

I thought everyone had to use a puller to remove the crank pulley. So I guess that is good then.

So I pulled the lower pan. Was able to get the upper pan free, but not out. Will have to jack up the motor in the morning.

The bad news in the guide bolts are in place. But the inside of the timing cover down by the crank is chewed up.

Johnson 4x4 the shop that did the head gasket, timing chain and reseal. The said they installed a new oring int he front cover. And all they did was gasket seal everything and leave the old crap in place. The water pump inlet orings. old and flattened out. All had gasket sealer. They didn't use any of the factory toyota parts I gave them. Some they returned. Some they didn't.

And when I pulled the lower pan. I found

I'm trying to figure our the source now. Tomorrow when I pull the lower pan. I will pull the bearing caps and take a look. But with a quick view tonight. I saw nothing poking out of the caps. Its aluminum. Who knows when it happened. The drain plug on the pan is raised on the inside of the pan. So none of this would have drained out of the oil. It could have made it over the lip. There is no other material in the oil pan. Just these large pieces and one small piece that magnetically stuck to the front crank pick up up at the front of the pan. Could this be from inside the oil pump? I am going to strip the oil system down and see if I can adjust it to get more volume and pressure.

And just if people want to know. The front sensor at the front bottom of the pan is the crank position sensor. There is a sensor on the left side that has 4 10mm nuts holding it on. kind of next to the dip stick. That is the oil float for the low oil light on the dash.

The crank, pistons and rods all looked in great shape for 210k miles and didn't surprise me when I saw the oil squirters. Toyota did a outstanding job on this motor.

If the motor is toast. I think I will rebuild it, drop the compression ratio around 8.5:1 and turbocharge it. I already have the head studs. And I hear the rods are pretty stout. I'm wondering which design they are.

If I did spin a bearing. This motor got me home from Bakersfield tapping all the way.

 

[OffGridOverland]

Looks like it was way over torqued. I don't see any indications of LockTight? So far I have never seen a pulley that did not slid off freely on a 1fz motor.

No loctite. It did have oil on the threads and on the wash facing the crank.

 

[OffGridOverland]

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

 

[murf]

bummer! I like your idea of the rebuild and turbocharging. Id seriously consider intercooling that turbo too ~

 

[OffGridOverland]

bummer! I like your idea of the rebuild and turbocharging. Id seriously consider intercooling that turbo too ~

My two track cars are all about the intercoolers.

600whp 2006 Subaru STi twinscroll GT35R

650whp 96 Subaru... twinscroll GT40R I like to intercool.


I'm reading up now. If I can get a 450-500whp out of a built 1FZ and put it in my LC. I might be happy with it then.
I just don't like some of the turbo kits out there. I think I'd have to piece something together.

But I guess I need to explore a bit on the current problem before I get boost happy.

 

[inkpot]

No loctite. It did have oil on the threads and on the wash facing the crank.

At one point I was guessing that you had a broken link on the cam drive chain that was flapping around, but that doesn't look like it.

 

[PanchoLedezma]

I thought everyone had to use a puller to remove the crank pulley. So I guess that is good then.

So I pulled the lower pan. Was able to get the upper pan free, but not out. Will have to jack up the motor in the morning.

The bad news in the guide bolts are in place. But the inside of the timing cover down by the crank is chewed up.

Johnson 4x4 the shop that did the head gasket, timing chain and reseal. The said they installed a new oring int he front cover. And all they did was gasket seal everything and leave the old crap in place. The water pump inlet orings. old and flattened out. All had gasket sealer. They didn't use any of the factory toyota parts I gave them. Some they returned. Some they didn't.

And when I pulled the lower pan. I found

I'm trying to figure our the source now. Tomorrow when I pull the lower pan. I will pull the bearing caps and take a look. But with a quick view tonight. I saw nothing poking out of the caps. Its aluminum. Who knows when it happened. The drain plug on the pan is raised on the inside of the pan. So none of this would have drained out of the oil. It could have made it over the lip. There is no other material in the oil pan. Just these large pieces and one small piece that magnetically stuck to the front crank pick up up at the front of the pan. Could this be from inside the oil pump? I am going to strip the oil system down and see if I can adjust it to get more volume and pressure.

And just if people want to know. The front sensor at the front bottom of the pan is the crank position sensor. There is a sensor on the left side that has 4 10mm nuts holding it on. kind of next to the dip stick. That is the oil float for the low oil light on the dash.

The crank, pistons and rods all looked in great shape for 210k miles and didn't surprise me when I saw the oil squirters. Toyota did a outstanding job on this motor.

If the motor is toast. I think I will rebuild it, drop the compression ratio around 8.5:1 and turbocharge it. I already have the head studs. And I hear the rods are pretty stout. I'm wondering which design they are.

If I did spin a bearing. This motor got me home from Bakersfield tapping all the way.

Did you find the solution for the rattle