Timing Chain Tensioner Noise

[arnott1t]

So I have an intermittent noise that has been diagnosed as a failed timing chain tensioner on the left side. Sounds like this happens from time to time on these engines. Not the easiest repair so I think I'm going to hire it out. The local dealer has quoted me to replace all 4 chains and tensioners at the same time. The reading I've done says not to worry on chains or other tensioners. Anyone have any experience with this repair or offer advice on what to do. I have a partsouq cart full of parts to order as deal said I can bring my own parts..... I'll save 1200 on parts through partsouq vs dealer supplied... seems crazy.....


Thanks,
Tyler

 

[TeCKis300]

What's the symptoms of the tensioner noise? Is it at startup? Only at startup? Or all the time? How many miles on the motor?

Depending on the symptoms, it may be questionable it may need to be changed at all. There may be other ways including using different oil, or different oil additives or cleaners if the symptoms are mild. With success stories of symptoms going away.

 

[arnott1t]

Sounds like a loose rattle. imagine a lug nut in an empty beer can. It cycles with one of the VVT solenoids and seems to be worse in cold. Sounds like the tensioner fails specifically the ratchet mechanism so that it loosens off. im 87.3% confident its a tensioner...

125k miles on the engine running full synthetic mobil 1 and toyota filters. .

I wouldnt say mild as its beginning to sound awful sometime.... once it warms up its better but not gone.

 

[TeCKis300]

I do believe that it is the tensioner. It's a somewhat common issue at higher mileages reading the Tundra forums.

Depending on the degree of the issue, some have gotten away resolving it with cleaners. Specifically running seafoam in the oil for a small duration. Then changing he oil out. Others have tried slightly higher viscosity oils like 5W-20 or 0W-30. Can't hurt to try as labor to do the job is in the ~15hr range.

 

[99toylc]

Run Seafoam in oil !! - I did (for about 90miles) in my 2008 Tundra 5.7 that sounded like bag of nails in a tin can especially in winter months but also on cold engine in summer months.
Its been about 15k miles since and it has been nice and quiet - well worth the try!

 

[arnott1t]

well... I'll do just that. I'm a big seafoam believer but thought this would be a mechanical failure and not a fouling issue. none the less it can't hurt.. Some of the tundra folks have been able to look down their filler neck and see it loose but I'm not so lucky.,.. maybe time for a cheap borescope...

 

[arnott1t]

Well. Sea foam is in but no luck. 30 miles or so in it. I’ll keep it in a while longer and see.

 

[bloc]

I had an intermittent rattle that was quite loud for a few seconds at startup previously. Every once in a while in the cold, then for some reason after an oil change it did it a few times. I dumped the oil and it rattled once then went back to very occasional rattle.

Reading around about specs throughout the rest of the world, I switched to 5w-30 oil to reduce overall valve train noise and acknowledge that I now have over 150k on the engine. 10k with this viscosity, and zero rattles.

Might be worth a try.

I also have a timing chain cover oil leak on one side so long term plans include pulling all of that and while I’m in there doing the tensioners and chains depending on what the guides look like. It’ll be a big job but worth it to stop the leak. I’ve read rumors of the tensioners getting updated so maybe toyota addressed whatever issue they were having.

 

[arnott1t]

Link to a video of the noise. It maybe comes across louder in the video but not much

you can here it stop with the cycle of something.

 

[99toylc]

This is the exact same noise I had and I guess I should explain that it went away after the oil change and NOT during running Sea foam in oil

 

[TeCKis300]

@99toylc, did you just go back to the recommended 0W-20? Or a different weight oil?

 

[99toylc]

I went back to 0W-20 with the thought of switching to 0W-30 if it got worse or if the problem came back.

 

[arnott1t]

Video of the failure in a tundra

 

[TeCKis300]

@arnott1t , what oil have you been using prior to this? Try a 5w-20 or 0w-30 when you're ready to change the oil. It does seem to help some Tundras with the tensioner issue.

 

[arnott1t]

Been running 0 20w Mobil 1 full synthetic. Will certainly move up some viscosity range and see 5w30 is next maybe in the rotella gas truck

 

[arnott1t]

Well I've changed the oil and must say it does seem noticeably better. We haven't had a cold cold day yet (which is so weird for edmonton in January) but I know its coming and that will be the real test. It sounds quieter on start up through for sure... starts softer and not so rattley

 

[bloc]

Well I've changed the oil and must say it does seem noticeably better. We haven't had a cold cold day yet (which is so weird for edmonton in January) but I know its coming and that will be the real test. It sounds quieter on start up through for sure... starts softer and not so rattley

This is with the 5w-30?

 

[04UZJ100]

It’s been cold here lately and the quite audible cold-start 5.7 characteristics are evident again. So much so that my wife asked what the nose was when accelerating out of our driveway.

Best way to describe it from the cabin of the LX is a click/tap like a leaky exhaust manifold. Goes away after about 60 seconds of driving when below freezing temperatures. (It’s not a cracked manifold)

This is with 5W-30 M1 oil which I now run in all 3 Toyota V8s.

The 2UZ makes quite the racket when cold too although not as mechanical as the 3UR. It’s just exhibits more of a whine.

 

[TeCKis300]

Awesome @arnott1t . Always feels good to be able to sidestep really costly issues. Though let us know how she does long term.

@04UZJ100 , curious why the 5W-30? Seems like you live in a pretty cold region. Seems like a lighter weight cold rating would help with initial oil pressure on startup?

 

[04UZJ100]

Awesome @arnott1t . Always feels good to be able to sidestep really costly issues. Though let us know how she does long term.

@04UZJ100 , curious why the 5W-30? Seems like you live in a pretty cold region. Seems like a lighter weight cold rating would help with initial oil pressure on startup?

Consistency across all my platforms. 2UZ has lived on 5W30 worldwide wither (higher) so far mileage lives than the 3UR. With no material change in bearing clearances internally, I see no reason to run a 0W30 on the 3UR.

While a poor gauge to use, the stock oil pressure gauge reads about 60-70% when cold until it settles to the normal 1/4ish mark once warmed up.