Timing Chain Tensioner Fix

[bloc]

My story with this..

Oil change then cold start rattle 3 days in a row.

forum.ih8mud.com

Did the change, trd filter, (not at all the first one), had the rattle more than a few times. short-interval change with fresh oil and OE filter, still rattled occasionally.. but eventually quit. In the meantime I switched to 5w-30 and back to TRD filters. Hasn't had the rattle in over 20k for me.

 

[JohnJB]

By chance do you happen to have a parts list for the $8k quote?

 

[ElJayBird]

By chance do you happen to have a parts list for the $8k quote?

Unfortunately, no. I threw it in the trash on my way out after telling the service manager they were either lazy or incompetent. That was after they handed me a parts list a mile long and over $11k in unrelated “repairs”. Dealerships are scammy af. When I saw VVTI gears, sway bars and other nonsense on the parts list I literally laughed out loud.

 

[bloc]

Unfortunately, no. I threw it in the trash on my way out after telling the service manager they were either lazy or incompetent. That was after they handed me a parts list a mile long and over $11k in unrelated “repairs”. Dealerships are scammy af. When I saw VVTI gears, sway bars and other nonsense on the parts list I literally laughed out loud.

Sway bars?!?

Scumbags, the lot of them.

 

[JohnJB]

Unfortunately, no. I threw it in the trash on my way out after telling the service manager they were either lazy or incompetent. That was after they handed me a parts list a mile long and over $11k in unrelated “repairs”. Dealerships are scammy af. When I saw VVTI gears, sway bars and other nonsense on the parts list I literally laughed out loud.

Well, you pretty much answered part of why I asked. Depending on your startup noise (assuming it's on startup) cam sprockets/VVTi gears should probably be on your parts list. And from recent experience, many master techs who do chain tensioners on a 3UR are at a minimum going to suggest you replace both the intake and exhaust cam sprockets on the driver side.

 

[njbrain]

I agree here. VVTi gears are known for noise, though not as common as the tensioners, and the engine is already apart. Quoting them is part of the shops CYA. Even so, 8k seems super steep

 

[jimoldguy]

I chased this noise for 50,000 miles. It only made the rattle at low RPM and at mid warm up. Tried Tribotech, made a little difference, put in new AC compressor and clutch (nope). I used Sea Foam 3 times (seemed to help). At 170,000 miles I used Sea Foam drained the oil. Put in new oil and filter. Warmed engine, added Liquid Moly, started engine. At about 3 minutes into the flush the engine started making very scary noises (not gringing just rattles) this went on for about 2 minutes then started to quiet down at 9 minutes it was purring nicley, let it run the full 15 minutes. I drained the new oil (absolute sludge), put in new mobil 1 high milage 5-30 (running this 20,000 miles). It has been 2500 miles scince I did this. No noise, better gas milage, better throttle response. I used a 1/2 quart of oil in the first 500 miles but none since ( maybe I did not fill correctly). I do not know if this helps anyone, but it was suggested by a mechanic that is very knowledgable, and it worked for me. I felt that if it worked fine if not either take engine apart and fix or trade in. Oh, 2011 Landcruiser

 

[Okadz]

I chased this noise for 50,000 miles. It only made the rattle at low RPM and at mid warm up. Tried Tribotech, made a little difference, put in new AC compressor and clutch (nope). I used Sea Foam 3 times (seemed to help). At 170,000 miles I used Sea Foam drained the oil. Put in new oil and filter. Warmed engine, added Liquid Moly, started engine. At about 3 minutes into the flush the engine started making very scary noises (not gringing just rattles) this went on for about 2 minutes then started to quiet down at 9 minutes it was purring nicley, let it run the full 15 minutes. I drained the new oil (absolute sludge), put in new mobil 1 high milage 5-30 (running this 20,000 miles). It has been 2500 miles scince I did this. No noise, better gas milage, better throttle response. I used a 1/2 quart of oil in the first 500 miles but none since ( maybe I did not fill correctly). I do not know if this helps anyone, but it was suggested by a mechanic that is very knowledgable, and it worked for me. I felt that if it worked fine if not either take engine apart and fix or trade in. Oh, 2011 Landcruiser

Jim - I am in Australia and we don't have seafoam on the shelf. I am interested to know which liquid moly product did you use.
Engine flush, friction reducer or something else?

 

[mcgaskins]

I had this issue and had it fixed at the dealership. My experience is outlined in this post including a breakdown of parts and labor:

Builds - mcgaskins' 2013 build thread - Palladium

Thank you! Wow that's funny, and yes that's us. It's a small world! I'll have to come checkout your setup someday! My truck has very little done to it, but hoping to start getting some more stuff done this year.

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[jimoldguy]

Jim - I am in Australia and we don't have seafoam on the shelf. I am interested to know which liquid moly product did you use.
Engine flush, friction reducer or something else?

Liquid Moly Pro-line engine flush 500ml

 

[Volunteer]

I have an 08 model and just did this. The mesh screen on the driver side tensioner had some build up causing the rattle. Funny the passenger tensioner doesn't have the screen. Its been intermittent for the last 20K miles I've changed oil viscosity's and types, also tried the seafoam suggestion to maybe loosen it up but I got tired of hearing it. Found a local Master Toyota mechanic that opened his own shop cost me $1,300 labor and I sourced and provided the parts our club gets a 20% discount from the local Toyota dealership cost me about $700 in parts. I did all the chains and tensioners while in there. He said he's never seen one come in with a broken chain so its how long you feel like hearing it. Here is my parts list I ordered. If I can help answer a questions just reach out.

ITEM	PART NUMBER	MANUFACTURER	PART NUMBERS	QTY'S
1	TIMING CHAIN	TOYOTA	13506-38020	2
2	TIMING CHAIN	TOYOTA	13507-31021	2
3	TENSIONER	TOYOTA	13540-38041	1
4	TENSIONER	TOYOTA	13540-38020	1
5	GASKET	TOYOTA	13552-38010	1
6	GUIDES	TOYOTA	13561-0S011 13561-0S021	2
7	GUIDES	TOYOTA	13559-0S011 13559-0S021	2
8	TENSIONER	TOYOTA	13560-38021	1
9	TENSIONER	TOYOTA	13550-38020	1
10	ORING (OIL)	TOYOTA	96721-24031	1
11	ORING (OIL)	TOYOTA	90301-40008	1
12	GASKET	TOYOTA	11328-38030	2
13	CRANK SEAL	TOYOTA	90311-42036	1
14	CRANK GEAR	TOYOTA	13521-38030	1

Gaskets required:

• Valve cover gaskets for both sides
• VVT-i gaskets for both sides
• Oil filter housing O-rings
• Water pump gasket
• Water pump o-ring
• Oil pump O-rings inside of timing cover (these maybe included in the first kit)
• Coolant bypass O-ring inside of cover
• Front coolant crossover pipe gaskets
• Intake manifold gaskets
• 3 tubes of FIPG (toyota black)
• 2 gallons of Toyota Red coolant

 

[bloc]

I have an 08 model and just did this. The mesh screen on the driver side tensioner had some build up causing the rattle. Funny the passenger tensioner doesn't have the screen. Its been intermittent for the last 20K miles I've changed oil viscosity's and types, also tried the seafoam suggestion to maybe loosen it up but I got tired of hearing it. Found a local Master Toyota mechanic that opened his own shop cost me $1,300 labor and I sourced and provided the parts our club gets a 20% discount from the local Toyota dealership cost me about $700 in parts. I did all the chains and tensioners while in there. He said he's never seen one come in with a broken chain so its how long you feel like hearing it. Here is my parts list I ordered. If I can help answer a questions just reach out.

Really good info, thanks for posting!

Did the mechanic indicate whether the crap on that screen was common with this issue?

 

[Volunteer]

Really good info, thanks for posting!

Did the mechanic indicate whether the crap on that screen was common with this issue?

Glad to help. He did say that's the typical tensioner that's the culprit because of the screen, I've only ever run synthetic and the rest of the internal components looked clean. That tensioner screen is pretty fine, I should have taken a picture of it.

 

[04UZJ100]

I have an 08 model and just did this. The mesh screen on the driver side tensioner had some build up causing the rattle. Funny the passenger tensioner doesn't have the screen. Its been intermittent for the last 20K miles I've changed oil viscosity's and types, also tried the seafoam suggestion to maybe loosen it up but I got tired of hearing it. Found a local Master Toyota mechanic that opened his own shop cost me $1,300 labor and I sourced and provided the parts our club gets a 20% discount from the local Toyota dealership cost me about $700 in parts. I did all the chains and tensioners while in there. He said he's never seen one come in with a broken chain so its how long you feel like hearing it. Here is my parts list I ordered. If I can help answer a questions just reach out.

ITEM	PART NUMBER	MANUFACTURER	PART NUMBERS	QTY'S
1	TIMING CHAIN	TOYOTA	13506-38020	2
2	TIMING CHAIN	TOYOTA	13507-31021	2
3	TENSIONER	TOYOTA	13540-38041	1
4	TENSIONER	TOYOTA	13540-38020	1
5	GASKET	TOYOTA	13552-38010	1
6	GUIDES	TOYOTA	13561-0S011 13561-0S021	2
7	GUIDES	TOYOTA	13559-0S011 13559-0S021	2
8	TENSIONER	TOYOTA	13560-38021	1
9	TENSIONER	TOYOTA	13550-38020	1
10	ORING (OIL)	TOYOTA	96721-24031	1
11	ORING (OIL)	TOYOTA	90301-40008	1
12	GASKET	TOYOTA	11328-38030	2
13	CRANK SEAL	TOYOTA	90311-42036	1
14	CRANK GEAR	TOYOTA	13521-38030	1

Gaskets required:

• Valve cover gaskets for both sides
• VVT-i gaskets for both sides
• Oil filter housing O-rings
• Water pump gasket
• Water pump o-ring
• Oil pump O-rings inside of timing cover (these maybe included in the first kit)
• Coolant bypass O-ring inside of cover
• Front coolant crossover pipe gaskets
• Intake manifold gaskets
• 3 tubes of FIPG (toyota black)
• 2 gallons of Toyota Red coolant

View attachment 3353565

Is that has far as you need to tear the engine down or do the front timing covers need to come off?

 

[bloc]

Is that has far as you need to tear the engine down or do the front timing covers need to come off?

Cover has to come off. Crank nose is too long to get the chains out with it in place, even if you could change the tensioners and guides in-situ.

 

[Volunteer]

Is that has far as you need to tear the engine down or do the front timing covers need to come off?

Bloc's correct the timing cover has to come off.